Russell, New Zealand

October 1999

Russell is situated in the Bay of Islands in Northern New Zealand, and is about a 3 hour drive north of Auckland. The population is around 1200 for the months of February through to November but during the months of December and January, the population swells to upwards of 10,000. Normally there is a police force of 2 constables but during this period there are 12 or 14. Russell and Paihia, which is across the water on the right side of the photo, are favourite Christmas and New Years holiday destinations for New Zealanders. Until the late 90's, things would get quite rowdy during this time of year, but now, with the increased Police presence, this is no longer the problem it was.

After moving off the boat, Jan and I lived at Tapeka Point which is about 2 kilometers outside of town on the other side of the hill from where the photo of Russell was taken. IsaLei-Rua was moored in Matauwhi Bay (pronounced 'Matawfee') which is the water on the left hand side of the photo. We left Russell for Hervey Bay, Queensland, Australia in August of 2000.

Russell, in the 1840's, was the scene of many battles between British troops and Maori. There is a plaque in the cemetery that is a memorial to those who died in the Battle of Kororeka (Maori name for Russell) in 1840. In fact, if you look hard enough, you can still see bullet holes in the side of the church, which is still in use to this day. Surrounding the church is a graveyard which has many graves of British Servicemen, both navel and army personnel. The dispute was inflamed when the Maori Chief, Hone Heke chopped down the flagpole on Flagstaff Hill as a symbol of rebellion against the British. The photo of Russell above was taken from the platform beside the present day flagpole.

During the 1840's Russell was known as the "Hellhole of the Pacific". The port at that time was a R & R destination for the whaling fleet from America and European countries. The waterfront was lined with brothels and drinking establishments and the town could be best described as a lawless frontier town. Several buildings from that era are still here or have been rebuilt to replicate the original structures.

The Treaty of Waitangi, which is the source of many modern day disputes between the Maori and Pakiha (white New Zealanders), was signed directly across the bay at Waitangi, just a little way from Paihia. There is a large memorial and museum there.

Russell has the distinction of being the first capital of New Zealand. This probably happened because, in the beginning, Russell was the most populated centre and certainly was where all the action was. Soon after, when many settlers had arrived and settled in other parts of the country, it wasn't such a great idea having a town with more Brothels than houses as a capital of the country; and so Wellington got the honour of being New Zealand's capital.

Every year in the first part of January, the Russell Boating Club hosts a Tall Ships Race. There is a huge marquee set up near the club. They have two bands, a hangi (Maori style meal cooked underground) and prizes for the race. The merriment goes on until the wee small hours. The photo below shows some of the boats at the start of the race off Russell on 9 th January, 2000.


For further information about this area of New Zealand

Russell Boating Club Info


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