HAMILTON COUNTY—Continued
Page 770
“Well hang Jeff Davis on a sour apple-tree.
Glory
Hallelujah.”
These Indiana regiments were the first regiments the Cincinnati
people had seen beside their own, and they greeted them with great enthusiasm.
They were two thousand strong, a tight body of bright young men, and splendidly
equipped, with knapsacks slung and like all the early Indiana regiments attired
in gray. Regiment after regiment of Morton’s gray-attired men soon followed
them. One of these, the Seventh Indiana, was reviewed a few weeks later by
Major ANDERSON of Fort Sumter fame, from the residence of his brother, Larz
ANDERSON, on Pike street. The major was a sedate-appearing gentleman and looked
care-worn and dejected, the result it was said of the excessive mental strain
put upon him by his experiences at Charleston.
The sudden change from the avocations of peace to those of
war made the city seem as another place and the people another people. Under
the excitement of a great overpowering emotion of patriotism all classes
mingled with a surprising degree of friendliness and good feeling; even
strangers greeted each other and neighbors that had been estranged for years
forgot their petty jealousies. Their fathers and sons touched elbows as they
marched away under the old flag and their tears and prayers. The spirit of
self-sacrifice and generosity largely displayed tended to increase one’s love
of his kind and it came, too, often from those who had been reputed to be hard
and selfish. The angel in their natures came out smiling but blew no trumpet.
One whom we knew, still know, and never can get rid of; neither in this world
nor in any other, said to his landlord, “These are strange times; my business
is dead and now I have this great house of yours on my hands and no income to
meet the rent; I shall have to move out and find some humble shelter for my
family.” “That,” replied he, “will do me no good.” “Stay where you are and take
care of my property; no matter about rent.” These are the times spoken of in
Scripture when the hand of the father is against the son and brother against
brother. We must help each other. If I get out of bread and you have it, I will
call upon you; and if you get out and I have it, come to me and I will divide
the last crust.” The dough for that last crust was never kneaded.
War was a matter about which the people were as ignorant as
babes. The spirit of humanity, and not of ferocity and blood-shedding, was
their natural characteristic. But for years blood-shedding was the great
business of the city; its industries were shaped to that end and supported its
population. In those be-ginning days the public meetings were intensely exciting.
Two or three of these we distinctly remember. One, about the very first, was in
Pike’s Opera House. It was packed from pit to dome, tier above tier. The
venerable Nathaniel WRIGHT attempted to read some spirit-spiriting resolutions
and failing for want of voice they were passed over to Mr. Rufus KING, when
every syllable went forth in clear ringing tones to the ears and hearts of that
packed, enthusiastic mass. Mr. KING to this day we are glad to say has that magnificent
voice in sound working condition; a voice that always goes out only for what is
good. It was in that very hail later on, on an October evening, 1864, that
James E. MURDOCK for the first time “Sheridan’s Ride,” that fine descriptive
poem of Buchanan read, a Cincinnati production, conceived and born on that very
day wherein genius in song illustrated genius in war and time hearts of the
nation heat in unison with the music.
A
meeting of gentlemen and ladies was held at Smith and Nixon’s Hall to learn
from O. M. MITCHELL what he knew about the war. He was an object of pride with
the Cincinnatians. Through his exertions they had the honor of having
established the first observatory, built by the contributions of a people, on
the globe. He was a small and ordinarily silent man, dark complexion, erect in
figure, his face strong, keen with its expression of thought. The little man
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seemed the concentration of nervous energy. He had often
addressed them on the subject of astronomy. His religious and poetical
instincts were strong, he was all alive with feeling; he possessed great
fluency and command of language and electrified his audiences with this sublime
elevating topic as probably no man had ever done before. When the war broke out
he said he was ready to fight in the ranks or out of the ranks; and he only
asked permission from his country to have something to do. This sentence was
the key—note of his character—patriotism and intense activity. On this occasion
he spoke with fiery energy—the war was to be no child’s play. “We read in the
newspapers about steel netting for our soldiers to protect the breasts against
bullets. What nonsense! And they tell us of a famous cannon just invented that
will carry seven miles—seven miles! What? Expect to put down this rebellion and
drive the rebels into the last ditch, they talk so much about, and get no
nearer than seven miles! “At this sally and the audience roared.
Judge Bellamy STORER was another of Cincinnati’s fiery,
enthusiastic orators, and like MITCHELL was overflowing with patriotism united
to the religious instinct. The more sublime flights of oratory can never be
reached without an infusion of the latter.
At a meeting in Greenwood Hall Judge STORER gave one of his
fervid appeals, calling upon the young men to volunteer. As he closed, he drew
his tall, imposing form to its utmost height and spreading out his arms
exclaimed, “I’m an old man, rising of sixty years,” then with a look as though
about ready to spring into a fight, added, “and I now volunteer.”
A few days later our eyes were greeted with the sight of a
company of old substantial citizens called the “Storer Rifles,” clad in
handsome uniforms, marching through the streets to the sound of drum and
fife—old, mostly wealthy, gray-headed men, Some of them very obese, with aldermanic
protuberances; they were splendidly equipped, each at his own expense, and were
named the “Storer Rifles.” Among them was the Judge himself; bearing his
shooting-piece and evidently as around of his trainer clothes as any
school-boy.
This company was organized to act as Home Guards for the
protection of the city and to stimulate “the boys “to enlist for time war.
After a little it seemed as though the entire three of
able-bodied men were drilling, and, where not for the army, to act as Home
Guards. Within a week from the fall of Sumter at least ten thousand men were
drilling in the city. The vacant halls were used as drill-rooms and the
measured tramp of the recruits and the cries of the drill—sergeants, “left,
left”, arose from all over the city. The town wag of the time was Platt EVANS,
a tailor who had his shop on Main street, just below Fourth. Numberless were
the stories told of his witticisms. He was a rather short, red-faced man,
advanced in life, with a coarse complexion but of artistic tastes. Withal he
stammered in speech, and this defect often gave a peculiar pungency to his wit.
On being solicited to act as a captain of a company of Home Guards be blurted out,
“you foo-fools if-if I was m-m-m-marching you down B-B-Broad-Broadway, you all
would be in the r-r-river b-b-b-be-fore I could ca-call ha-ha-halt!”
The
famed Literary Club, converting, their rooms into a drilling hall, formed into
a military company. They were largely young lawyers, their business for the
time crushed and they had no resource for occupation but to turn from law to
war, from courts to camps. Some sixty went into the service, almost all became
officers and some distinguished generals, as R. B. HAYES, M. F. FORCE, Ed.
O.NOYES, etc. Mr. R. W. BURNET volunteered to drill the club. He was a
dignified, quiet gentleman of about fifty years of age, a son of Judge BURNET,
and had been educated at West Point. On taking charge he made a short address,
in which he said his first military experience on graduating was as a young lieutenant
in the nullification times of 1832, when he was sent with his company by
Jackson to Charleston to throttle its rebellious citizens if they attempted to
execute their
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treasonable threats. “And now,” said he, “I can but reflect
that it is these same pestilential people that have so wickedly plunged the
country into cruel unnecessary war, and I am again in service against them.”
Finding himself, after the lapse of thirty years, somewhat
rusty in his tactics, Mr. BURNET resigned and his place was supplied by a drill
sergeant from the Newport Barracks. He was a coarse, rough, ignorant foreigner,
and occasionally forgetting himself at some exhibition of awkwardness, would
let slip an oath, “d—n you there, on the left, hold up your heads!” Then,
remembering where he was, he would let bow himself and in tones of great
humility say, “I ask your pardon, gentlemen.” Then, a minute later, again
flying into a passion he would let slip another oath, to be in like manner
followed with another I ask your pardon, gentlemen.” And thus it was the
Literary Club was initiated into the school of the soldier by oaths alternated
with expressions of humility.
Cincinnati was especially prominent for the large number of
eminent characters she supplied for the cabinet and the field—Hon. Salmon P.
CHASE, the great war secretary, and two of Ohio’s war governors, DENINSON and
BROUGH, and many of the distinguished Union generals, as Major—Generals
ROSECRANS, McCLENNAN, MITCHELL and Godfrey WEITZELL; Brevet Major-Generals R.
B. HAYNES, August WILLICH, Henry B. BANNING, Manning F. FORCE, August V. KAUTZ
and Kenner GARRARD; Brigadier—Generals Robert L. McCOOK, William H. LYTLE, A.
Sanders PIATT, B. P. SCAMMON, Nathaniel McLEAN, M. S.WADE and John P. SLOUGH
and Brevet Brigadier-Generals Andrew HICKENLOOPER, Benjamin C. LUDLOW, Israel
GARRARD, William H. BALDWIN, Henry V. BOYNTON, Charles B. BROWN, Henry L.
BENNET, Henry M.CIST, Stephen J. M. ROATRY, Granville MOODY, August MOORE,
Reuben D. MUSSEY, George W. NEFF; Edward F. NOYES, Augustus C. PARRY, Durbin
WARD, and Thomas L. YOUNG; also Joshua. L. BATES of the Ohio militia. A host of
other Cincinnatians served in various civil and military capacities. Especially
useful were its medical men; more than half the entire number of “United States
volunteer surgeons” were from this city; they entered the service independent
of special commands. Among the medical men were William H. MUSSEY, George
MENDENHALL, John MURPHY, William CLENDENIN, Robert FLETCHER, George H. SHUMARD,
etc. After the bloody battles of Fort Donaldson and Shiloh the Cincinnati
surgeons went down to the fields in streams, attended to the wounded and their
transportation to hospitals in the city, a number of buildings being improvised
for the purpose. A very efficient citizen of that era was Miles GREENWOOD, an
iron founder, who cast cannon, rifled muskets and plated steamboats with iron
for war purposes.
The Cincinnati branch of time United States Sanitary Commission was
particularly efficient; an outline of their work is given on page 190. Alike
efficient was the local branch of the United States Christian Commission. It
was under the management of A. B. CHAMBERLAIN, .H. Thane MILLER, with Rev. J.
F. MARLAY Secretary, and B. W. CHIDLAW general agent. It distributed stores and
money to the amount of about $300,000, the contributions of Soldiers’ Aid
Societies and Ladies’ Christian Commission, mainly from the patriotic men and
women of Ohio.
The most marked events in the war history of the city were
what has been termed the “Siege of Cincinnati” in 1862 and time raid of John
Morgan in the following year.
THE SIEGE OF CINCINNATI.
After the unfortunate battle of Richmond, on the 29th of August, Kirby SMITH, with his 15,000 rebel veterans, advancing into the heart of Kentucky, took possession of Lexington, Frankfort, and Maysville. Bragg with his large army was then crossing the Kentucky line; while Morgan, with his guerilla cavalry, was already joined to Smith. Pondrous-proportioned Humphrey MARSHALL was
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also busy swelling the rebel ranks with recruits from the
fiery young Kentuckians. Affairs looked threateningly on the border.
General Lewis WALLACE was at once placed in command at
Cincinnati, by order of Major-General WRIGHT. Soon as he arrived in the city,
on Thursday, the 4th of September, he put Cincinnati and the two cities on the
Kentucky side of the Ohio, Newport and Covington, under martial law, and,
within an hour of his arrival, he issued a proclamation suspending all
business, stopping the ferry-boats from plying the river, and summoning all
citizens to enroll themselves for defense. It was most effective. It totally
closed business, and sent every citizen without distinction, to the ranks or
into the trenches. Nor was it needless, for the enemy, within a few days
thereafter, advanced to within five miles of the city, on the Kentucky side and
skirmished with our outposts. Buchanan READ, the poet, painter of the time,
draws this picture of the events. READ was a volunteer aid to General WALLACE.
The ten days ensuing will be forever
memorable in the annals of the city of Cincinnati. The cheerful alacrity with
which the people rose en masse to swell the ranks and crowd into the trenches
was a sight worth seeing. Of course, there were a few timid creatures who
feared to obey the summons. Sudden illness overtook some. Others were hunted up
by armed men with fixed bayonets ferreted from back kitchens, garrets and
cellars, closets and even under beds where they were hiding. One peacefully
excited individual was found in his wife’s clothes scrubbing at the wash-tub.
He was put in one of the German working parties, who received him with shouts
of laughter.
The citizens thus collected were the
representatives of all classes and many nativities. The man of money, the man
of law, the merchant, the artist, and the artisan swelled the lines, hastening
to the scene of action, armed either with musket, pick, or spade.
But the pleasantest and most picturesque
sight of those remarkable days was the almost endless stream of sturdy men who
rushed to the rescue from the rural districts of Ohio and Indiana. These were
known as the squirrel-hunters. They came in files, numbering thousands upon
thousands, in all kinds of costumes, and armed with all kinds of firearms, but
chiefly the deadly rifle, which they knew so well how to use.
Old men, middle-aged men, and often mere
boys, like the “minute men” of the old Revolution they dropped all their
peculiar avocations, and with their leathern pouches full of bullets, and their
ox-horns full of powder, by every railroad and by-way, in such numbers that it
seemed as if the whole State of Ohio were peopled only with hunters, and that
the spirit of Daniel Boone stood upon the bills opposite the town beckoning
them into Kentucky.
The pontoon bridge over the Ohio, which
had been begun and completed between sun-down and sundown. groaned day and
night with the perpetual stream of life, all setting southward. In three days
there were ten miles of entrenchments lining the Kentucky hills, making a
semicircle from the river above the city to the banks of the river below and
these were thickly manned, from end to end, and made terrible to the astonished
enemy by black and frowning cannon.
General HEATH, with his 12,000 veterans,
flushed with their late success at Richmond, drew up before these formidable
preparations and deemed it prudent to take the matter into serious
consideration, before making the attack.
Our men were eagerly awaiting their
approach, thousands in rifle parts, and tens of thousands along the whole line
of fortifications, while our scouts and pickets were skirmishing with their
outposts in the plains in front. Should the foe make a sudden dash and carry
any point of our lines, it was thought by some that nothing would prevent them
from entering Cincinnati.
But for this provision was also made. The
city above and below was well protected by a flotilla of gunboats, improvised
from the swarm of steamers which lay at the wharves. The shrewd leaders of the
rebel army were probably kept well posted by traitors within our own lines, in
regard to the reception pre-pared for them, and taking advantage of the
darkness of night and the violence of a thunder storm made a hasty and ruinous
retreat. WALLACE was anxious to follow, and, was confident of success, but was
overruled by those higher in authority.
To the
above general view of the Siege we contribute our individual experience. Such
an experience of the entire war in a diary by a citizen of the genius of DEFOE,
would outlive a hundred common histories; centuries hence be preserved among
the choice collections of American historic literature. It would illustrate as
nothing else could, the inner life of our people in this momentous period,
their varying emotions and sentiments; their surprise and indignation at the
treason to the beautiful country of their love; their never-equaled patriotism
and generosity;
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their unquenchable hope; the almost despair that at times
settled upon them, when all seemed but lost, through the timidity and
irresolution of weak generals in the field; the intrigues and intended
treachery of demagogues at home. Then the groping forward, like children in the
dark, of millions of loyal hearts for some mighty arm to guide; some mighty intellect
to reveal and thus relieve the awful suspense as to the future; as though any
mere man had an attribute that alone is of God. Finally, through the agony of
sore adversities, came the looking upward to the only power that could help.
Thus the religious instincts became deepened. Visions of the higher life
dwarfed the large things of this; and through faith came greater blessings than
the wisest among good had hoped.
On the morning the city was put under
martial law, I found the streets full of armed police in army blue, and all,
without respect to age, compelled to report at the head-quarters of their
respective districts for enrolment. An unwilling citizen, seeing the bayonet
leveled at him, could but yield to the inexorable logic of military despotism.
It was perilous to walk the streets without a pass. At every corner stood a
sentinel.
The colored men were roughly handled by
the Irish police. From hotels and barber shops, in the midst of their labors,
these helpless people were pounced on and often bareheaded and in shirtsleeves,
as seized driven in squads, at the point of the bayonet, and gathered in vacant
yards and guarded. What rendered this act more than ordinarily atrocious was
that they, through their head men, had, at the first alarm, been the earliest
to volunteer their services to our mayor, for the defense of our common homes.
It was a sad sight to see human treated like reptiles.
Enrolled in companies we were daily
drilled. One of these in our ward was com-posed of old men, termed “Silver
Grays.” Among its members were the venerable Judge LEAVITT, of the United
States Supreme Court, and other eminent citizens. Grand-fathers were seen
practicing the manual, and lifting alternate feet to the cadence of mark-time.
At this stage of affairs the idea that our
colored citizens possessed war-like qualities was a subject for scoffing; the
scoffers forget-ting that the race in ancestral Africa, including even the
women, had been in war since the days of Ham; strangely oblivious also to the
fact that our foreign-born city police could only by furious onslaughts, made
with Hibernian love of the thing, quell the frequent pugnacious outbreaks of
the crispy-haired denisons of our own Bucktown. From this view, or more
probably a delicate sentiment of tenderness, instead of being armed and sent
forth to the dangers of battle, they were consolidated into a peaceful brigade
of workers in the trenches back of Newport, under the philanthropic guidance of
the Hon. William DICKSON.
The daily morning march of the corps down
Broadway to labor was a species of the mottled picturesque. At their head was
the stalwart, manly form of the landlord of the Dumas house, Colonel HARLAN.
Starting back on the honest, substantial, coal-black foundation, all shades of
color were exhibited, degenerating out through successive gradations to an ashy
white; the index of Anglo-Saxon fatherhood of the chivalrous American type.
Arrayed for dirt-work in their oldest clothes; apparently the fags of every
conceivable kind of cast-off, kicked-about, and faded-out garments; crownless
and lop-eared hats, diverse boots; with shouldered pick, shovel, and hoe; this
merry, chattering, pie-bald, grotesque body, shuffled along amid grins and
jeers, reminding us of the ancient nursery distich:
“Hark! hark! hear the dogs bark,
The beggars are coming to town,
Some in rags, some in tags,
And some in velvet gowns.”
Tuesday night, September 9, 1862, was
starlight; the air soft and balmy. With others I was on guard at an improvised
armory, the old American Express buildings, on Third street near Broadway.
Three hours past midnight from a signal tower three blocks east of us a rocket
suddenly shot high in the air; then the fire-bell pealed an alarm. All was
again quiet. Half an hour passed. Hurrying footsteps neared us. They were those
of the indefatigable, public-spirited John D. CALDWELL. “Kirby SMITH,” said he
quickly, “is advancing on the city. The military are to muster on the landing
and cross the river at sunrise.”
Six o’clock struck as I entered my own
door to make preparations for my departure. The good woman was up. The four
little innocents—two of a kind—were asleep in the bliss of ignorance, happy in
quiet slumber. A few moments of hurried preparation and I was ready for the
campaign. The provisions were these: a heavy blanket-shawl, a few good cigars,
a haversack loaded with eatables, and a black bottle of medicinal liquid—cherry
bounce—very choice.
As I stepped out on the pavement my neighbor did the same. He,
too, was off for the war. At each of our adjoining chamber-windows stood a
solitary female. Neither could see the other though not ten feet apart, a house
dividing wall intervening. Sadness and merriment were personified. Tears
be-dewed and apprehension elongated the face of the one. Laughter dimpled and
shortened the face of the other. The one thought of
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her protector as going forth to encounter
the terrors of battle; visions of wounds and death were before her. The other
thought of hers with only a prospect of a little season of rural refreshment on
the Kentucky hills, to return in safety with an appetite ravenous as a wolf for
freshly dug pink-eyes and Beresford’s choice cuts.
We joined our regiment at the landing.
This expanse of acres was crowded with armed citizens in companies and
regiments. Two or three of our frail, egg-shell river steamers, converted into
gun-boats were receiving from drays bales of hay for bulwarks. The pontoon was
a moving panorama of newly made warriors, and wagons of munitions hastening southward.
Back of the plain of Covington and Newport rose the softly rounded hills beyond
these were our bloodthirsty foe. Our officers tried to maneuver our regiment.
They were too ignorant to maneuver themselves; it was like handling a rope of
sand. But in my absence they had somehow managed to get that long line of men
arranged into platoons. Then as I took my place the drums beat tubs squeaked,
and we crossed the pontoon. The people of Covington filled their doorways and
windows to gaze at the passing pageant. To my fancy they looked scowling. No
cheers, no smiles greeted us. It was a staring silence. The rebel army had been
largely recruited from the town.
March ! march! March! We struck the hills.
The way up seemed interminable. The boiling September sun poured upon us like a
furnace. The road was as an ash heap. Clouds of limestone dust whitened us like
millers, filling our nostrils and throats with impalpable powder. The cry went
up, Water! water! Little or none was to be had. The unusual excitement and
exertion told upon me. Years before, I had, beating my knapsack, performed
pedestrian tours of thousands of miles. Had twice walked across New York, once
from the Hudson to the lake; in the hottest of summer had footed it from
Richmond to Lynchburg. No forty or fifty miles a day had ever wilted me like
this march of only four. But my muscles had been relaxed by years of continuous
office labor. I had been on my feet guard-duty all night.
Near the top of the hills, some 500 feet
above the Ohio level, our regiment halted, when our officers galloped ahead. We
broke ranks and lay down under the wayside fence. Five minutes elapsed. Back
cantered the cortege. “Fall into line! fall into line! Quick, men!” was the
cry. They rode among us. Our colonel exclaimed, “You are now going into battle
the enemy are advancing! You will receive sixty rounds of cartridges! Do your
duty men, do your duty” I fancied it a ruse to test our courage, and so
experienced a sense of shame.
I looked upon the men around me. Not a word
was spoken; not one smiled. No visible emotion of any kind appeared, only weary
faces, dirty, sweaty, and blowsy with the burning heat.
I dropped my cartridges into my haversack
along with my food. Our captain, in his musical, pleasant voice, gave us
instructions, though he had never studied war.
“Gentlemen! these cartridges are peculiar;
you put the ball in first and the powder on top!” Some one whispered in his
ear. “Gentlemen,’’ he again exclaimed, with a significant scowl and shake of
his head, “I was mistaken; you must put the powder in first, and the ball on
top!” We did so. We had elected Billy captain, for he was genial and of a good
family.
We again shuffled upward. Suddenly as the
drawing of a curtain, a fine, open, rolling country with undulating ravines
burst upon us. Two or three farm mansions with half concealing foliage and
cornfields appeared in the distance; beyond, a mile away, the fringed line of a
forest; above, a cloudless sky and a noon-day sun. The road we were on
penetrated these woods. In these were concealed the unknown thousands of our
war-experienced foe.
On the summit, of the hills we had so
laboriously gained, defending the approach by the road ran our line of
earth-works. On our right was Fort Mitchell; to our left, for hundreds of
yards, rifle-pits. The fort and pits were filled with armed citizens, and a
regiment or two of green soldiers in their new suits. Vociferous cheers greeted
our appearing. “how are you, H.? “struck my attention. It was the cheerful
voice of a tall, slender gentleman in glasses, who did my legal business, John
W. HERRON.
Turning off to the left into the fields in
front of these, and away beyond, we halted an hour or so in line of battle, the
nearest regiment to the enemy. We waited in expectation of an attack, too
exhausted to fight, or, perhaps, even to run. Thence we moved back into an
orchard, behind a rail-fence, on rather low ground; our left, and the extreme
left of all our forces, resting on a faint-house. Our pioneers went to work strengthening
our permanent position, cutting down brush and small trees, and piling them,
against the fence. Here, we were in plain view, a mile in front, of the ominous
forest. When night came on, in caution, our camp-fires were extinguished. We
slept on hay in the open air, with our loaded muskets by our sides, and our
guards and pickets doubled.
At 4 o’clock reveille sounded and we were up in line. I then
enjoyed what I had not before seen in years--the first coming on of morning in
the country. Most of the day we were in line of battle behind the fence.
Regiments to the right of us, and more in the rifle-pits farther on, and
beyond, it seemed a mile to the right, the artillerists in Fort Mitchell—all
those on hills above us also stood waiting for the enemy. Constant picket
firing was going on in front. The rebels were feeling our lines. Pop! pop! pop!
one——two—three, then half a dozen in quick succession, followed by a lull with
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intervals of three or four minutes, broken
perhaps by solitary. Again continuous pops, like a feu-de-jone , with another lull, and so on through the long hours.
Some of our men were wounded, and others, it was reported, killed. With the
naked eye we caught occasional glimpses of the skirmishers in a cornfield near
the woods. With a glass a man by my side said be saw the butter-nut-colored
garments of the foe.
Toward evening a furious thunder-storm
drove us to our tents of blankets and brush-wood bowers. It wet us through and
destroyed the cartridges in our cotton haversacks. Just as the storm was
closing, a tremendous fusillade on our right, and the cries of our officers, “The
enemy are upon us; turn out! Turn out!’’ brought us to the fence again. The
rebels, we thought had surprised us and would be dashing down in a moment with
their cavalry through the orchard in our rear. Several of our companies fired
off their muskets in that direction, and to the manifest danger of a line of
our own sentinels. It was a false alarm and, arose in the 110th Ohio, camped on
the hill to our right.
You may ask what my sensations were as I
thus stood, hack to the fence, with uplifted musket in expectant attitude? To
be honest, my teeth chattered uncontrollably. I never boasted of courage.
Drenched to the marrow by the cold rain, I was shivering before the alarm, and
so I reasoned in this way—” Our men are all raw, our officers in the same
doughy condition. We are armed with the old, condemned Belgian rifle. Not one
in ten can be discharged. All my reading in history has ground the fact into
me, that militia, situated like us, are worthless when attacked by veterans. An
hundred experienced cavalry-men dashing down with drawn sabres, revolvers and
secesh yells will scatter us in a twinkling. When the others run, and I know
they will, I won’t. I’ll drop beside this fence, simulate death, and open an
eye to the culminating circumstances.” I was not aching for a fight. Ambitious
youths going in on their muscles, alas are apt to come out on their backs.
Unlike Norvel, I could not say:
“I
had heard of battles and longed
To
follow to the field some warlike chap.”
When at school I never fought excepting
when my pugnacity was aroused on seeing large boys tyrannize over small ones. I
never slew anything larger than a cat, which had scratched me, and at this, as
soon as done, I child-like, as child I was, repenting, sat down and cried. I am
soft-hearted as my uncle Toby with the fly—“Go, poor devil! The world is large
enough for both you and me.” To pit my valuable life against one of these low
Southern whites—half animals, fierce as hyenas, degraded as serfs—appeared a
manifest incongruity. It never seemed so plain before. It was tackling the
beast in the only point where he was strong.
Some things were revealed to me by this
soldier life. The alarming rumors current. The restraints upon one’s liberty,
imprisoned within the lines of the regiment. The sensation of being ordered
around by small men in high places, and not admirable in any. The waste of war,
piles of bread, water-soaked by rain into worthless pulp. The vacuity of mind
from the want of business for continuous thought. The picturesque attitudes of
scores of men sleeping on heaps of straw; seen by the uncertain light of night.
The importance of an officer’s horse beyond that of a common soldier, shown by
the refusal of hay on which to sleep on the night of our arrival, because the
colonel’s beast wanted it. Didn’t our good mother earth furnish a bed?
In our company were three of us—William J.
FLAGG, Samuel DAVIS and myself, not relatives in any way—who, in a New England
city distant nearly a thousand miles, had, over thirty years before, been
school-mates. It illustrated a peculiar phase of American habits. We had some
odd characters. Our fifer, a short, spare-built, wan-faced man, had been in the
British army—had seen ser-vice in Afghanistan the other side of the globe.
Another, a German lieutenant, had experience of war in our country—was at
Shiloh. He was imaginative. I talked with him in the night. To my query of the
probability of a night attack, he replied, Yes, the secesh always attack in
that way.’’ Past midnight as he was going the rounds of the pickets as officer
of the guard, he said he saw crouching in the shadow of a ravine a large body
of rebels. He ran to headquarters and aroused our colonel and staff, but when
they arrived at the seeing point, lo! the foe had vanished. A fat, gray-headed
captain with protuberant abdomen came to me soon after our arrival and with an
impressive countenance discoursed of the perils of our position. In this I
quite agreed with him. Then putting his hand to his stomach and giving his head
a turn to one side, after the usual manner of invalids in detailing their woes
he uttered in lugubrious tones—” I am very sick; the march over has been too
much for me; I feel a severe attack of my old complaint, cholera morbus coming
on.’’ After this I missed him. He bad got a permit from the surgeon and
returned home to be nursed. Our medical man, Dr. DANDRIDGE, was old Virginia
Born; and I had, notwithstanding his generous qualities, suspected him of
secesh sympathies. I wish to be charitable, but I must say this confirmed my
suspicion it was evident he wished to get the fighting men out of the way!
Saturday afternoon, the 13th, we began our return march. The militia
were no longer needed, for the rebels had fallen back, and thousands of regular
soldiers had been pouring into the city and spreading over the hills. Our
return was an ovation. The landing was black with men, women and children. We
recrossed the pontoon amid cheers and the boom of cannon. Here, on the safe
side
Page 777
on the river, the sick captain, now
recovered, joined his regiment. With freshly shaven face, spotless collar and
bright uniform, he appeared like a bandbox soldier among dust-covered warriors.
Escaping our perils, he shared our glories, as, with drawn sword, be strutted
through street after street amid cheers of the multitude, smiles of admiring
women, and waving of ‘kerchiefs. Weary and dirt-begrimed, we were, in a
tedious, circuitous march, duly shown off by our officers to all their lady
acquaintances, until night came to our relict, kindly covered us with her
mantle, and stopped the tomfoolery. The lambs led forth to slaughter thus
returned safely to their folds, because the butcher hadn’t come.
It is now known that Kirby SMITH was never ordered to
attack Cincinnati, but only to demonstrate; and about this very time the
advance of BUELL seemed to Bragg so menacing that he made haste to order SMITH
back to his support. The force that approached so near the city at no time
comprised 12,000 men and were under the immediate command of General HEATH. In
speaking of this event after the war, Kirby SMITH said that at one time he
could “have very easily entered Cincinnati with his troops, but all h--ll could
not have got them out again.
MORGAN’S RAID.
Morgan’s raid in July of the next year was the next event
to arouse an excitement in the city. He came within a few miles and slipped
around it in the night. The details of the raid are given elsewhere. After the
battle of Buffington Island the prisoners, amounting to about 700 men, were
brought to the city in steamers. The privates were sent from here to
Indianapolis. The officers, about 70 in number, were landed at the foot of Main
street from the steamer Starlight, and marched up the street under a strong
guard to the city prison on Ninth street. The people had regarded them in the
light of horse-thieves, and greatly rejoicing at their capture, as they passed
along, in places expressed their contempt by howls and cat-cries. No other
bodies of prisoners brought to the city during the war were otherwise than
respectfully received. Indeed the only word of disrespect we heard towards any
of them came from a little boy and of our own family. It was early morning when
in our residence on East Fifth street, near Pike, we were attracted by sounds
in the street. Rushing to the door our eyes were greeted by the sight of a body
of say 200 unarmed men dressed in gray, with about a third of their number in
blue on each side with muskets in hand, and the whole mass were on a run in the
middle of the street hurrying to the depot of the Little Miami Railroad en
route for Camp Chase. At this sight the little one at my side called out, “Rebel
traitors—rebel traitors! “Curious to know the effect of so much war time
education he was receiving had upon the same young mind we about then inquired:
“Would you like to be a soldier?” “No, sir; not one of the kind that go to
war.” “Why not?” “Because, I should expect to get killed.”
Morgan and a number of his officers were confined in the
State Prison at Columbus, from whence the great raider made his escape on the
night of the 27th of November. The following particulars of the flight were
detailed in a Richmond paper:
“It had been previously determined that, on reaching the outer walls, the parties should separate, MORGAN and HINES together, and the others to shape their course for them-selves. Thus they parted. HINES and the General proceeded at once to the depot to purchase their tickets for Cincinnati. But, lo! where was the money? The inventive HINES had only to touch the magical wand of his ingenuity to be supplied. While in prison he had taken the precaution, after planning his escape, to write to a lady friend in a peculiar cypher, which when handed to the authorities, to read through openly, contained nothing contraband, but which, on the young lady receiving, she, according to instructions, sent him some books, in the back of one of which she concealed some “green-backs,” and across the inside wrote her name to indicate the place where the money was deposited. The books came safe to hand, and HINES was flush. Going boldly up to
Page 778
the ticket office, while Morgan modestly
stood back and adjusted a pair of green goggles over his eyes, which one of the
men, having weak eyes, had worn in prison.
They took their seats in the cars without
suspicion. How their hearts beat until the locomotive whistled to start! Slowly
the wheels turn, and they are off. The cars were due in Cincinnati at 7 o’clock
A.M. At Xenia they were detained one hour. What keen anguish of suspense did
they not suffer! They knew at 5 o’clock A.M. the convicts would be called, and
that their escape would then be discovered, when it would be telegraphed in
every direction; consequently the guards would be ready to greet them on their
arrival. They were rapidly nearing the city of abolition hogdom. It was a cool,
rainy morning. Just as the train entered the suburbs, about half a mile from
the depot, the escaped prisoners went out on the platform and put on the
brakes, checking the cars sufficiently to let them jump off. HINES jumped off
first, and fell, considerably stunned. MORGAN followed, unhurt. They
immediately made for the river. Here they found a boy with a skiff, who had
just ferried across some ladies from the Kentucky side. They dared not turn
their heads for fear of seeing the guards coming. “HINES,” whispered the
General, “look and see if anybody is coming.” The boy was told they wanted to
cross, but he desired to wait for more passengers. The General told him he was
in a hurry, and promised to pay double fare. The skiff shot out into the
stream—they soon reached the Kentucky shore, and breathed—free.”
THE CINCINNATI
NEWSPAPERS IN THE WAR TIMES.
The press of the city sprang into an importance never
before experienced. Extras were being continually issued, and the newsboys
persistent everywhere filled the air with their cries, “all about the battle.”
Not only in the city, but the carriers penetrated to the armies in front to
sell their wares. Colonel Crafts WRIGHT, in writing a description for the
Gazette of the battle of Fort Donaldson, said, “Sunday morning we were ordered
to advance on the trenches of the enemy. While standing there a new cry was
heard—a carrier came along crying, ‘Cincinnati Commercial, Gazette and Times,’
and as I sat upon my horse, bought them and read the news from home, and this
too within an hour after the fort had surrendered.”
The colonel had been a room-mate and class-mate with
Jefferson DAVIS, and through life remained a personal friend, though not
agreeing in politics; this was not to be expected from one of the proprietors
of the Cincinnati Gazette.
The press had correspondents everywhere, and these were
untiring in gathering the news from the “front.” In the early stages of the war
every skirmish was published and magnified, and little minor matters detailed
that later on were not noticed, as anecdotes of individual heroism,
descriptions of the appearance of the dead and wounded, illustrating the
savagery of war.
The city being so close upon the border found its business
in diverting its industries to prosecution of the war. After a short period of
stagnation there were but few idle people, and when it was seen that the war
had come to stay, there was no scarcity of money and the entire community were
prospering. Among the peculiar industries of the time was the putting up of
stationery in large envelopes called “paper packages.” The amount of
letter-writing between the soldiers and their friends at home was enormous.
These packages were peddled everywhere, alike in town, country and camps, at a
cost of about a dime each, and consisted of envelopes, paper, pencil, pens,
holder and ink; most of the stationery was miserable. Soldiers’ letters went
postage free.
The
city was often alive with troops through the war period. Regiments came from
every State. At first they were looked upon with interest and pride. Familiarity
changed this. Then came sad scenes. One was the bringing in of the wounded from
the battle-fields. After Donaldson and Shiloh the physicians and nurses,
notably the Sisters of Charity, went down from the city and large numbers were
brought here by boat and taken to the hospitals in ambulances. Just at the edge
of a winter’s evening we saw a line of ambulances filled with the sufferers.
They had stopped before an improvised hospital, that had been a business
building on Fourth street, near Main, and were being carried in on stretchers
or in the arms of others. Among them were some wounded prisoners, who received
equally good
Page 779
treatment with the others. On the bloody field of Moskwa,
Napoleon, as he stooped over the Russian wounded and ordered relief, said,
“After battle we are no longer enemies.”
We asked one of the medical men, a personal friend, Dr.
George MENDENHALL, President of the Sanitary Commission, who had come up the
river with them from Donaldson, if he had, while ministering to their wounds,
talked with them. “No,” said that good man, “I felt so indignant when I
reflected what a miserable business they had engaged in that I had no stomach
for social intercourse.” Personally, we think it instructive to get at the
bottom thought of all sorts of people in religion, business, political, and
war—and even in wedlock, which, alas, often results in the same. It often
teaches charity for what is wrong-doing. In a deserted rebel camp, Laurel Hill,
Western Virginia, was found “a love letter,” in which was expressed the bottom
thought of at least one poor secessionist: “I sa agen dear Milindy, weer fitin
for our liberties to do gest as we pleas, and we will fit for them so long as
GODDLEMITY gives us breth.”
The hospitals were sacred places to the ladies of the city
who were alive in ministering to the wants of the soldier boys; and to the
latter they seemed suffering and often ennobling, as they often found among the
most humble of these men the choicest of spirits, the most noble of natures,
and could but feel as they saw them sinking away into their last sleep, it
would be to awake again ethereal brightness to be appreciated in the higher
immortality.
A Soldier’s Funeral awakens
different emotions from that of any other. If he be an officer high in rank the
pageant can be so affecting as the funeral procession. Cincinnati had several
such. One was that of William H. LYTLE, the poet soldier killed at Chickamauga,
and was most imposing. The entire city seemed anxious to pay their last tribute
to the illustrious dead. The houses were draped in mourning, the bells tolled,
and the flags hung at half-mast. The procession passed through Fourth street a
long line of military with reversed arms moved slowly and solemnly along, the
band playing a dirge. The horse of the General, according to military custom,
was led by a military servant, with a pair of cavalry boots hanging from the
empty saddle. On each side of the sarcophagus marched a guard of honor,
officers high in rank and attired in their full parade uniforms tall, showy,
splendid-looking men. It was evening when they reached Spring Grove, the moon
silvering that repository of the dead as they entered imposing gateway.
Regiments Returning from service in the field often looked
war-worn and in ragged condition. After the Union defeat at Richmond we saw two
Indiana regiments which had surrendered and the men then paroled, marching
through Third street en route for Indianapolis. They had left that city only a
few weeks before, newly formed troops and had passed through ours for Kentucky,
in high spirits and excellent condition. On their return they were in a
deplorable state, ragged, dirty with the dust of the roads, and many of them
bare-footed. The enemy must have largely robbed them of their clothing and
shoes. The city at the time was destitute of troops but few persons were on the
street to look upon this sad, forlorn, woe-begone-looking body of young men.
Kirby SMITH had taken out their starch. We felt they ought to have been
received with open arms, but no one was around to help brighten their spirits.
The few who saw them gazed in staring in silence. Another dilapidated-looking
body we saw, and in 1864 was the Fifth Ohio. After three years of bloody and
heroic service they had been reduced to little more than a company and were
drawn up in line on Third street before the Quarter-masters department to draw
new clothing. It was quite a contrast to that same regiment as we saw it just
after the fall of Sumter marching down Sycamore street 1,000 strong, attired in
red-flannel shirts and aglow with patriotic ardor. Their brave Colonel, J. H.
PATRICK, had killed only a few weeks before down in Dalton, Georgia, while
gallantly leading a charge. The heroic band were borne on furlough.
The Sixth, or Guthrie Gray Regiment, marched away in gray and came back in the army blue after an absence of three years, when they were mustered out of service, about 500 strong. They were received in a sort of ovation by the citizens as they marched through the city. Their Colonel, N. L. ANDERSON, brought back “the boys,” largely from the elite of the city in splendid physical condition. They had an entirely different appearance from the ordinary returning regiments, being very neat and cleanly in their appearance. Some thoughtful friends had supplied them, as they neared the city, with a due quantity of fresh paper collars——as we were told—which were quite striking in contrast with their bronzed war-
Page 780
hardened countenances. It was a proud
moment for the young men to be welcomed after their long absence by their lady
friends from the streets, doors, and window, with smiles and the waving of
handkerchiefs. Eleven of their number subsequently received commissions in the
regular army.
To have lived anywhere in our country
during the long four years of the rebellion was to have had a variety of
experiences and emotion; especially was this true of Cincinnati. They were
grand and awful times. What was to be the outcome no one could divine. Our
first men could not tell us anything. They seemed insignificant in view of
stupendous, appalling events. At the beginning all dissenting voices were
hushed in one general outburst of indignations. Later on, what were termed the
“copperheads” raised their hissing heads. One mode of striking their fangs into
the Union cause was by trying to weaken respect for those at the head of
affairs. Mr. LINCOLN seemed an especial object for their abuse. The most
obscene anecdotes were coined and circulated as coming from him. One of the
public prints described him “as an ape, a hyena, a grinning satyr, and the
White House at Washington but a den where the baboon of Illinois and his
satellites held their disgusting orgies.” Going through our lower market one
morning during the war, our ears were greeted with an expression that was new to
us. We turned to see the speaker and there stood before us an immense, fat,
blowsy-faced market woman, evidently from the Kentucky side of the Ohio half a
mile distant. It was she that had just belched forth in bitter contemptuous
tones the epithet, “Old Link.”
During the gloomy period when news of
defeat was received, the faces of some of those around us would light up with
exultation: then they would say: “O, I told you so: they are better fighters
than our soldiers, more warlike, and in earnest. We can never conquer them. The
old Union is dead. We shall probably have three confederacies. The New England
States, and the East; the West; and the South, its geographical situation in
connection with the Mississippi making it a necessity.” Such was the talk to
which those who loved the Union were compelled to listen in those times. It
added to their distresses, while it excited their indignation and
loathing. Not to record it would be a rank injustice to those who
sacrificed for their country and a falsification of the truth of history by its
concealment.
In such a time as we had in Cincinnati
there are very many isolated scenes and incidents that each in itself is
perhaps of no especial consequences, but if itemized and given in bulk are
instructive, illustration life there in the time of the rebellion. We give some
within our personal experience.
The First Funeral.—When our volunteers left for Western
Virginia it was generally thought the trouble would soon be over. Never was
there a greater hallucination. In a few weeks came tidings of skirmishes and
deaths among those who had but just left us. At this juncture on day I was
brought to a realizing sense of what war was. By chance I saw on Broadway, just
above Fifth street, a group of servant-girls and children. A hearse and a few
carriages were in front. On inquiry I learned it was the funeral of a young man
who had been killed in a skirmish in Western Virginia. In a little while an old
man with his wife leaning on his arm, parents of the deceased, came out, bowed
and heart-broken, followed by sorrowing brothers and sisters; they got into the
carriages, which then moved slowly away. And this was what war meant. Tears and
heart-breaks and lives of sorrow and suffering to the innocent and helpless.
The Gawky Officer.—There was, ordinarily, very little pride
of military show among those engages in so serious a business as war. The
officers, when not on duty, generally appeared in undress. Our streets at times
thick with such. It was near the beginning when there passed, walking on Fourth
street, by Pike’s Opera House, a very tall, gawky officer, over six feet in
stature. He was in full parade dress, with spreading epaulettes, and his stride
was that which showed he had passed his days in plowed fields straddling from
furrow to furrow. He evidently felt he was creating a sensation in the big
city—and he was. Every one turned and looked at this specimen of pomp, fuss,
and feathers, with comical emotion.
Falling in Battle.—We asked a young man, a captain who had come
home on furlough, by the name of EMERSON, whom we well knew, if he had ever
seen any one fall in battle. He laughed as though the thought was new and
replied, “No, I don’t know that I ever did,” and then turning to a companion
said, “Tom, did you?” The latter replied the same. Being always in front they
had their eyes only to watch the enemy before them. Both had seen plenty after
they were down, but never one in the act of falling. A few months passed.
EMERSON had gone to the front. He had command of a small fort down in
Tennessee, built to protect a railroad bridge. The enemy made an attack and
were repelled. One man only had they killed. It was its commander, EMERSON, his
head carried away by a cannon ball. He was a handsome fellow, black eyes and rosy
cheeks. His character was of the best. His pastor, Rev. D. Henry M. STORRS,
said in speaking of his sacrifice: “So pure and noble was he that his very
presence on our streets was continued fragrance.” That laughing, pleasant face
is now before me, just as though it was yesterday that he said, “Tom did you?”
Contraband Soldiers.—Ordinarily, men in uniform are so transformed that it was rarely
that we could tell, on seeing a regiment
Page 781
marching through the streets, whether it
was Irish, German or American. In regard to one class of Union soldiers there
could be no mistake—the negro. On Fifth street, close to Main, on the large
space in front of the present Government building, was reared a huge shed-like
structure, one story high barracks. Late in the war it was occupied briefly by
a regiment or more of plantation blacks, clad in the Union uniform. They were a
very different-looking people from our Northern blacks. Many of whom possess
bright, interesting faces. These were stolid-appearing, their faces with but
little more expression than those of animals. When I saw them they had finished
their suppers and were engaged in whiling away their time singing plantation
melodies in the gathering shadows of the evening. The voices of this immense
multitude went up in a grand orchestra sound. The tunes were plaintive,
weirdlike, and the whole exhibition one that could not but affect the
thoughtful mind. It was singularly appealing to one’s best instincts to look
upon these poor, simple children of nature, who were acting their humble part
in the midst of vents so momentous.
At times our city was alive with troops,
and then it was that the theatres and places of amusement—and places of
wickedness—as in Paris during the Reign of Terror, were extraordinarily
prosperous. At other times only a few people were seen on the streets, so in
any of the men having gone to the war. After the fail of Richmond it was felt
that the great bulk of the fighting was over; but it was largely feared that
the South would for years continue a scene of guerilla warfare and keep society
in a state of chaos. The assassination of Mr. LINCOLN came—a terrible blow in
the midst rejoicings at peace. Strong men could only speak of it with swelling
throats and choked utterance. The nation writhed in agony. Then came the return
of the regiments to their varied homes; but everywhere, amid the general
rejoicings, were the stricken families to be reminded only the more vividly of
the terrible loss of fathers, sons, and brothers, who had died that the nation
might live.
CINCINNATI IN
1877.
In 1877, after a residence in Cincinnati of thirty years,
we returned to our native city of New Haven, when we gave, in a publication
there, the annexed described of Cincinnati as it then was. The article is now
historical, and hence proper here for permanent record; beside, we which to
preserve it as a heartfelt tribute to a city where, and a people among whom,
our children were born, and when we had so much enjoyment of life. The caption
of the article was “Cincinnati on the Hills.”
Recently an Eastern gentleman, a divine of
national reputation, at one time like the writer a resident of Cincinnati—a
gentleman of broad experience of travel and association in this and other
lands—remarked to us: ‘‘Cincinnati is the exceptional city of the world, for
the social character of its people and the wise generosity and the public
spirit of its wealthy men and citizens generally.” We had long felt this, and
were pleased to see it so emphasized by one with such opportunities for a
correct opinion.
In April, 1832, Catherine BEECHER, arrived
at Walnut Hills, then largely in the primeval forest, and before her sister
Harriet had come to eventually marry Calvin STOWE, and fill up for the writing
of “Uncle Tom.” To her Catherine wrote ‘‘I never saw a place so capable of
being rendered a paradise by the improvements of taste as the environs of this
city. ‘‘Thirty years later the improvements were well started when out came
Theodore WOOLSEY president of Yale College, to Walnut hills for a visit, and,
alike enthused, said: “No other city on the globe has such beautiful suburbs.”
Prevalence of Public Sprit—While other of our great cities may each
point to one or two citizens who have contributed in single gifts tens of
thousands to objects promotive of the public welfare, Cincinnati can point to
five gentlemen of this class now walking her streets, pleasant to meet, as
seeing them recalls their beneficence. They are Reuben SPRINGER, who gave
$175,000 toward a music hall, and later regretted that he had not given its
full cost, $300,000; Joseph LONGWORTH, $50,000 for a Free Art School, Henry
PROBASCO, $105.000 for a public fountain; David SINTON, $33,000 for a Christian
association building, and also $100,0000 for the Bethel Sunday-School, where
every Sabbath from 2,500 to 3,000 children of poor are gathered under one roof;
and William S. GROSEBECK, $50,000 for music in the parks. Beside these are
scores of others equally liberal, according to their means, often dispensing
hundreds and sometimes thousands in their gifts
Cincinnati’s Blessings.—The people are so social, come together
so much for social objects that everybody worth knowing is generally known.
Pride in themselves, in their city and in their public spirit, is a manifest
and righteous characteristic. They stand on tiptoe when their city is
named, and feel a foot taller.
The city is near the centre of population in the very heart of the
Union. It is said to be more familiarly known on the continent of Europe, more
noticed in the public prints, especially in Germany, from its peculiar
Page 782
Top Picture
RETURNING FROM THE WAR.
The War is ended, and now we are marching home,
Our noble girls rejoicing to see us soldiers come.
They love the drum-beat, the shrill notes of the fife;
They love our dear old flag—are UNION, too, for life.
—American Revolution Song
Modernized.
Bottom Picture.
SQUIRREL HUNTERS CROSSING THE OHIO AT CINCINNATI.
The Squirrel Hunters of Ohio and Indiana, many
thousands strong, having poured into Cincinnati to defend it from invasion, are
crossing the Ohio on pontoons, Wednesday morning, September 19, 1862, to meet
the enemy, only five miles distant.
Page 783
Top Picture
MT. AUBURN INCLINED PLANE.
Middle Picture
ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS.
Bottom Picture
THE HIGHLAND HOUSE.
Page 784
bright points, than any other of our large
cities. Among these is its zoological garden, established by an association of
gentlemen simply as a matter of public beneficence. It occupies a
half-square square of undulating, picturesque ground on the summit of the hills
and is the only one in the country with a single exception. Within the
enclosure are numerous buildings containing a great variety of animals,
beside those in the park outside the buildings, where is a town of prairie dogs
and dens with white and grizzly bears.
Within the city is a public fountain, a
free gift, the finest in the Union; a free public library of over 80,000
volumes, in a magnificent library building, where nearly a score of assistants
stand ready to loan out the choicest books to the humblest citizens without
price: a free art school, where one can learn, without cost, to draw and paint,
carve and mould, and listen to attractive lectures from Benn PITMAN on art; and
a music hall and organ, both the largest on the continent, and costing unitedly
nearly a third of a million, also a free gift. The steam fire engine is a
Cincinnati invention, and the city the first to adopt, which it did through a
severe conflict, largely through the indomitable pluck and will-power of Miles
GREENWOOD, one of the city’s strongest citizens, literally an iron man.
Musical Festivals.—A distinguishing feature of the city has
been her musical festivals, to be still greater, for she is to be the centre of
music in this country, especially so now that she has secured as her guiding
spirit the graceful, manly maestro, Theodore THOMAS, whom simply to see while
wielding the baton is alone worth the price of admission. The opening of these
festivals is always a gala day. The streets are gay with flags, the hotels and
public buildings resplendent with artistic adornments, illustrative of music
and musical celebrities, and at night illuminated. Multitudes come, some from
hundreds of miles away, to attend these festivals; from Missouri, Illinois,
Michigan, and other Western states and it is said that once there was a man who
came all the way from Boston! But we never believed it. At the seasons of these
festivals the streets are crowded with a body of ladies and gentlemen,
elegantly attired, with refined mind thoughtful expressions, perhaps beyond
anything seen there on any other public occasions, thus attesting to the
elevating influence of music upon her votaries, and the elevated class which
time art divine brings within the circle of her magic wand.
Industrial Expositions.—In the past years Cincinnati has taken
the lead in her industrial expositions. Her experience was so great that when
Philadelphia gave her Centennial she wisely went there for her Director
General. This she found Alfred C. GOSHORN, the Cincinnati manager, a gentleman
of but few words, who, by silent energy and brain power, could bring order from
chaos and master inharmonious and distracting elements to unite and move
together as in the harmony and beauty of a grand sym-phony.
Incline Planes.—The city proper is on two planes, one
called the “Bottom,” 60 feet and the other 112 feet above low-watermark in the
river. This, with the exception of New York and Boston, is the most densely
populated area in the Union. Owing to the contracted dimensions of the plains,
population is rapidly extending on the river hills. There are nearly 400 feet
above the city, and take one on to the general level of the country. Besides
roads leading to their summits, there are in all four inclined railway
planes—on the north, east and west—where, by stationary engines at the top,
people are taken up, sometimes nearly a hundred in a car, and in ninety
seconds. They are hauled up by a wire rope large as one’s wrist, which winds
around a drum with a monotonous humming sound, quick resounding, as though in a
hurry to get you up. An extra rope is attached to each car as a
precaution in case the one in use should break
Bird’s-eye Views.—The views from the hills are unique.
Seemingly within a stone’s throw one looks down from a height of between 300
and 400 feet into a huge basin-like area filled by a dense, compact city. Beyond
this wilderness of walls, roofs and steeples, is seen the Ohio, with its
magnificent bridges, the Kentucky towns of Covington and Newport opposite.
Encircling hills everywhere bound the view, through which the Ohio pierces,
turning its broad silvery surface to that sun which shines equally for us all.
Beer Gardens and Music.—At the summit of these planes are
immense beer gardens with mammoth buildings, when on stifling summer nights the
city hive swarms out thousands upon thousands of all classed and nationalities,
who thus come together and alike yield to the potent influences of music and
lager, One, the Highland House, travelers say, is not only the largest in the
world but is unequalled in splendor and appointments. It is on Mount Adams,
east of the city plain, where nearly 40 years ago John Quincy Adams, “the old
man eloquent,’’ delivered his oration on the occasion of laying the cornerstone
of the Cincinnati Observatory, the first astronomical building erected in human
history by the joint contributions of private citizens. Thus early had this
people initiated those habits of public beneficence which bring down blessings
from the stars. In the summer of 1877 Theodore THOMAS with his orchestra gave
there three continuous weeks of music, with audiences on some nights of from 6,000
to 8,000 people, many of them around tables and taking in music with their
beer.
Viewed from the city the long lines of
hundred lights, in places rising tier above tier, marking the spot, made the
place appear as an illuminated palace in the skies; While the lighted car in
incessant motion up and down the inclined plane looked like a huge fire ball in
transit.
The city itself, hundreds of feet below,
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with its miles of street lamps vanishing
in the distance, and the broad Ohio with its, moving steamers lighted up, gave
to those on the hill top an equally picturesque view as they sat there
listening to the music, their brows whilom fanned by the cool breezes from the
west. This was comfort, solid comfort up there as one might say at an alighting
place between the basin-placed city and it overhanging stars.
The Germans.—The prevalence of music and lager in the
city is largely owing to the Germans. Of the 300,000 inhabitants at this
centre nearly one-third are Germans or of German stock. In these respects
the American have become largely Teutonized.
The Germans are notably frugal and
thrifty. The ambition of each family is to own its dwelling—their great
ambition a three-story brick. They associate with and cultivate the
acquaintance of there own families more thoroughly than our people do theirs.
They resort on Sunday afternoons, with their wives and children, to the beer
gardens on the hill tops, where there is music, green arbors, kindly skies and
soft airs. The utmost decorum prevails. All classes of Germans with their
families to the toddling infant thus mingle in calm, peaceful recreation. They
learn to know and sympathize with each other, a matter seemingly impossible
with a certain class of our snobbish country-men who ever seem dreadfully
apprehensive of soiling their gentility.
Love of Flowers.—A pleasing characteristic of the Germans
is their passion for flowers. While American woman of humble rank will spend
money for an article of personal adornment that perchance may destroy all grace
of movement and crucify all beauty, a German woman will purchase a pot of
flowers. On passing even tenements houses occupied by Germans, one will often
see every window, may be thirty or forty in all, story upon story, filled with
pots of flowers. These please the thoughtful passer-by as he thinks of a people
who thus endeavor to make fragrant their hard work-day lives.
German Peculiarities.—The original Germans are largely of the
working class. Like old-country folk, generally, they are clannish and let
their affections go back to the father-land, while their children take especial
pride in being thought Americans; indeed some manifest shame at being overheard
by Americans talking in the German tongue.
A very common sight in the German quarters
is to see old men, grandfathers, on their last legs, acting as nurses for
babies, pushing them around in carriages or dangling them on their knees, they
meanwhile regaling themselves with their everlasting pipes.
The common class of Germans in the city
know next to nothing of the inner life of Americans. Some of them stigmatize us
as “Irish.” Their gross ignorance after a residence on our soil of often half a
life-time impressed us with the sheer folly of people traveling in Europe,
fancying they receive anything more than a surface knowledge of Europeans. Of
the earnest spiritual life of our orthodox Christian people they have not the
faintest conception. Nothing like it exists among them. As to Sunday; even the
Protestant Germans, attach to it no especial sanctity, while the Catholics
everywhere every day is equally “the Lord’s.”
The Crusaders Among the Germans.—When the temperance crusade opened the
Germans were dumbfounded. Beer is with them as water is with us, and it used
from infancy to old age. They received the crusading bands with stolid silence,
looking at the ladies from out of their round blue eyes with an expression that
showed that their sensations must have been queer, indescribable. Not a saloon
in the city was closed. The ladies might as well have prayed and sang before
the Rock of Gibraltar. One day the crusade among the Germans came to a sudden
end. An entire band of ladies, wives and mothers of the very best citizens,
were arrested by the city police—respectfully arrested and escorted to the
police station, and charged with violating the city laws in obstructing the
sidewalks. As in usual with criminals, they were compelled to register their
names, residence and ages! As they were not put in “the lock-up,” their pockets
were saved the usual emptying.
During those exciting times the temperance
meetings were crowded, and men and women alike addressed the multitudes, the
exercised being varied with prayer and song. It was noted that while the men
always more or less hesitated, the women never. Their words always flowed as
from an everlasting fountain. Pathos, poetry and matter of fact were the
concomitants in varied measures of their speech.
At some of these meetings the narratives
were so touching that hundreds were melted in tears. We remember one we
attended when we were so affected by an involuntary twitching of the facial
muscles, that to conceal anything that might happen we bowed our head and
looked into the bottom of our hat to study and see if we could not improve the
lettering of the hatter’s advertisement. And we believe we succeeded!
And the speaker who so aroused our
emotions by the plaintive melody of her voice and the heart-melting scenes of
her narrative, was a woman, and she with crispy hair and black as the ace of
spades! The earthly tabernacle is as nothing, but it is the divine spirit,
wherever it enters, that gives dignity to its possessor, lifts and unites with
the Infinite.
In the interior of the State, among an
American orthodox population, the Crusaders were wonderfully successful. Peter
the Hermit had come again—this time in the form of Dio LEWIS. In some villages
every saloon was closed. It seemed for a time as though another age of miracles
had dawned upon mankind.