The Emigrant's Guide and Directory to the Canadas.
THE
EMIGRANT'S
DIRECTORY AND GUIDE
TO
OBTAIN LANDS AND EFFECT A SETTLEMENT
IN THE
CANADAS.
by
FRANCIS A. EVANS, ESQ.
late agent for the Eastern Townships to the
Legislature of Lower Canada.
WILLIAM CURRY, JUN. AND CO., DUBLIN
SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, LONDON
and OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH.
1833.
ADVERTISEMENT.
Having now for eighteen years been a resident of British America, and
having in consequence of my official appointment as Agent to the
Eastern Townships of Lower Canada, frequently visited various parts
of the new settlements, I have been enabled to obtain, from personal
observation, a larger share of information respecting them than most
persons, from time to time I have taken notes on my several journeys,
with the intention of publishing an extensive work on the state of the
Canadas (and which I had partly completed for the press,) but I
considered that at present it might be more useful to persons disposed
to emigrate, to publish a small work, giving such information as might
be absolutely necessary to direct them to a suitable settlement according
to their inclinations, occupations, or habits; and to this determination
I was strongly led, by observing the vast increase of Emigrants that
arrived at Quebec last season, and who, generally speaking, had very
little correct information respecting the British provinces, and were,
in every sense of the word, "Strangers in a Strange Land," and therefore
liable to be imposed on by interested persons, who cared little for
their future prosperity.
At a very late period of the last season, a work somewhat similar
to this, entitled "Hints to Emigrants," appeared at Quebec,
brought out by some emigrants who had then arrived. It is
published in the name of "Martin Doyle," and though evidently
not written from personal observation, yet it contains considerable
information; however, as its object appears to me to be directed
in favour of Upper Canada exclusively, I have felt it my duty
at once to transmit this work to my native country, in order
that it might be published immediately, so that an opportunity
should be given to the public of forming a correct opinion,
of the present state of British America, and of the great
advantages which it presents to the industrious.
I shall merely add, that this work has been submitted to
persons in authority here, and it is now offered to the public,
with their sanction and approbation.
It has been extracted from my papers with perhaps too
much haste, but the persons for whose use it is principally
intended, will not, I am persuaded, greatly fault the style or
composition, provided they find it what it professes to be,
namely, a "Directory AND GUIDE to obtain Lands and effect a
Settlement in the CANADAS."
FRANCIS A. EVANS
Quebec 1832.
PREFACE
The Publishers feel considerable regret in having to state
that the Writer of the first part of this Work has, since they
received the manuscript, fallen a victim to cholera at Quebec. He
had devoted a considerable portion of time and labour in
procuring authentic information in the Canadas, and had prepared
an extensive Work respecting the present state of the British
possessions in America, which he intended to submit to the public.
In the spring of the last year, Mr. Evans extracted the
following pages from his larger Work, and transmitted them to a
gentleman in this city, with the intention of having them
published immediately, but very shortly after they had been
received several new publication on the Canadas issued from the
press, in consequence of which it was thought advisable to
delay the printing of this Work for a short time, particularly
as the season for emigration had nearly closed, and therefore
the necessity for the information (which the publishers feel is
to be found in this small treatise) was not a pressing nature.
They have carefully examined the several new publications on the
subject of emigration, many of which they freely and candidly
admit possess much valuable information, and are written with the
most anxious desire not to mislead the public; but they feel it
their duty not to withhold any thing within their power which they
conscientiously believe contains much really useful matter, and
which is not to be found in similar publications.
Mr. Evans emigrated to America in the year 1813, and shortly
after procured a grant of land near Drummondville, in Lower
Canada; from time to time, he visited various parts of the
Canadas, and particularly within the last eight years, as about
the year 1824 he was appointed Agent to the Eastern Townships in
Lower Canada, and this office obliged him to become intimately
acquainted with the atual state of that extensive district, in
order that he might be qualified to communicate fully with the
Authorities at Quebec, as at that period these townships had no
Representatives in the House of Assembly (they afterwards
obtained them in the year 1829). The official duties of Township
Agent obliged Mr. Evans to visit Quebec frequently, and when
there, to become acquainted, from the most authentic sources,
with the state of the entire province, for the purpose of
enabling him to procure for the particular district with
the interests of which he had been entrusted, equal advantages with
those parts then enjoying the privelege of being Represented In
the Provincial Parliament. It is presumed Mr. Evan's
conduct gave general satisfaction to the inhabitants of these
Townships, as he was repeatedly re-elected by them to fill the
same situation, and therefore the publishers feel no hesitation in
submitting and recommending "The emigrants Guide" to the
public, as a work containing within a very small compass more
real, useful and practical information than is to be found in
any other of a similar nature of double the extent. Some persons
may consider these observations too strong, but TIME, which is the
true test of most things, will determine how far they are accurate.
Mr. Evans having felt considerable anxiety respecting his friends
in Ireland in consequence of accounts having reached him of the
breaking out of the cholera in Dublin, wrote from Quebec
in the month of June last, at which time he was in the
enjoyment of perfect health, but before his letters reached
their destination, he was laid in the grave, and that within nine
hours from the period of the attack.
If Mr. Evans had lived, it is probable he would have transmitted
additional matter which would have been annexed to, or embodied
in this work, as he had been writen to on the subject, but his
premature death put an end to such expectations; however, some hopes
are entertained that all his valuable papers on British America
will be forwarded to Ireland during the spring for publication.
The publishers, desirous that the "Emigrants' Guide" should be
as perfect as possible (and not having, for the reasons mentioned,
procured the expected communication from Mr. Evans,) have, in the
Appendix, given such further information respecting the Canadas as
they conceive may not be altogether unacceptable to the Emigrant,
and upon which Mr. Evans has not fully written, it may, in the
spirited language of the "Backwoodsman," be called a chaper of
"Odds and Ends," and has been extracted from the latest and most
authentic publications on British America, Emigration, &c.
The Importance of the British settlements in North America as
connected with the trade of the United Kingdoms, may be
estimated from the fact ascertained by the Custom-house returns,
that every man, woman and child in these colonies, on an average makes
use of forty dollars worth of British goods annually; whereas, if the
thousands who have emigrated from these countries remained at
home, they would not, on an average, consume one-third of that
amount; therefore, upon this ground alone, emigration is of considerable
advantage to the mother country, and we most cordially approve of
the motto from Napoleon, prefixed to the "Backwoodsman," viz.
"Ships, Colonies, and Commerce."
Dublin, 10th March, 1833.
CONTENTS
SECTION I.
General description of Lower and Upper Canada
Lower Canada
Upper Canada
Roads and distances from Quebec
Roads from Three Rivers
William Henry
Montreal
SECTION II.
General directions on arriving in Canada
SECTION III.
Directions relating to various parts of Lower Canada
favourable for settling in, with a few observations on
the settlements already formed
SECTION IV.
Comparative view of both provinces, with some
further remarks on the Upper
How to ascertain the quality of lands
Directions relative to the obtaining of lands-securing
titles therein, with some remarks on the several kinds
of title, &c.
Currency, or coin current in Canada
Matters to be provided on proceeding to settle
Building
Clearing land
Fencing
Sowing and planting new cleared land
On making maple sugar
General observations on Ashes, Salts, Timber, &c.
Conclusion
APPENDIX
Upper Canada
Eastern Section
Eastern District
Ottawa "
Johnstown "
Bathurst "
Midland "
Central Section
Newcastle District
Home "
Western Section
Gore District
Niagara "
London "
Western "
Cities and Towns
City of the Falls
Lakes and Canals
New Brunswick
Advice to Emigrants, by A. C. Buchanan, Esq.
Government agent for Emigrants
Information for Emigrants
THE
EMIGRANT'S GUIDE
TO
CANADA
SECTION I.
Lower and Upper Canada formed but the province of Quebec until
the year 1791, when, by an Act of the British Parliament, it
was divided into two provinces, and a similar Constitution
given to each, viz:- a Governor, Executive Council, Legislative
Council, and House of Assembly elected for four years, who possess
similar legislative powers, within their respective provinces,
as the King, Lords, and Commons of Great Britain and Ireland;
however always admitting the Imperial Parliament to have the supremacy.
The king appoints the governor and executive council during pleasure,
and the legislative council for life; the executive council are the
governors legal advisors, and are somewhat in the nature of privy council.
LOWER CANADA.
Lower Canada is bounded on the north, by Hudson Bay and Labrador
territories; on the northeast, by the Gulf of St. Laurence; On
the south and south-east, by the States of Maine, New Hampshire,
Vermont, and New York, and the province of New Brunswick; and on
the west, by Upper Canada; being about 700 miles long from N. E.
to S. W., and 300 miles wide from N. to S., comprising a surface
of about 200,000 square miles. It is situated between 45 and 52
degrees of north latitude, and between 63 and 81 degrees of west
longitude; the great river St. Laurence running from S.W. to N.E.
through the province, into which a number of large rivers and streams
run north and south, watering the country at both sides of this river,
to the greatest perfection, in every settlement formed, or that can
be formed, in the province.
The principal rivers that fall in on the north shore of the St. Laurence,
are the Saguenay, Malbay, Montmorency, St. Charles, Jacque Cartier,
Portneuf, St. Anne's, Batiscan, Champlain, St. Maurice, Deloup,
Ymachiche, Masquinouge, and Ottawa. Those that fall in on the south
shore, are the Chandiere, Becancour, Nicolet, St. Francis, Ymaska,
Richelieu or Chambly, and Chateauguay, with many of less note.
A great number of these rivers are navigable for large vessels, for
some distance from the St. Lawrence, but boats can proceed very far
into the interior of the country. There is a short canal, of eight
miles, between Montreal and Lachine, for the purpose of avoiding
the rapids on the St. Laurence above the former place. Another
canal leads over the rapids in the Ottawa river, to the mouth
of the Rideau canal, which forms a communication between the
Ottawa and Kingston, on Lake Ontario, in Upper Canada: and
another canal is in progres, from Chambly to St. John, to make
the Richelieu navigable from the St. Laurence to Lake Champlain.
There are also several short canals and locks on the St. Laurence,
above Montreal, to enable boats to surmount the rapids when
proceeding to Upper Canada.
There are roads on both banks of the St. Laurence, and also on
the banks of the other principal rivers. The lands or farms are
laid out in lots about three times as long as they are wide, the
ends of which are generally towards the roads or rivers :- there
are also roads across each range of the lots or farms, as far as
settlements reach on each side of the rivers. With these there
are a few leading roads to and from the principal parts of the country,
namely:- the Ristigouche road, from the St. Laurence to the Bay of
Chaleur; the Timisconata road, from the St. Laurence to New Brunswick, &c.;
the Kennebec road, from Quebec to the State of Maine; the Craigs road,
from Quebec to the eastern townships and State of Vermont, &c.; the
St. Gregoire road, from Three Rivers to the said townships; and the
Ymaska mountain and Shefford road, from Montreal to the said townships.
There are also roads from Montreal to Upper Canada, and up the
Ottawa river to Hull; with many other cross roads from one settlement
to another, and which are too numerous to insert here in detail,
as they lead to all parts of the province.
Lower Canada is at present divided into five law districts,
(somewhat similar to what are called circuits in Great Britain
and Ireland,) viz.:- Quebec, Montreal, Three Rivers, Gaspe, and
St. Francis; in each of which courts of justice are held for
the administration of the laws. These districts are subdivided
into forty counties, viz.:- Gaspe, Bonaventure, Rimouski,
Kamouraska, Lislet, Bellchase, Dorchester, Beance, Megantic,
Lotbiniere, Nicolet, Ymaska, Drummond, Sherbrooke, Stanstead,
Missiskoui, Shefford, Richelieu in which is the borough of
William Henry, St. Hyacinthe, Rouville, Vercheres, Chambly,
Laprairie, L'acaidie, Beauharnois, Vaudreuil, Ottawa, Lake of
the Two Mountains, Terrebonne, Lachenaie, L'assumption, Montreal
and city, Berthier, St. Maurice in which is the town of Three Rivers,
Champlain, Portneuf, Quebec and city, Montmorency, Saguanay, and
Orleans. The chief cities and towns are, the cities of Quebec and
Montreal, each containing nearly 30,000 inhabitants; the town
of Three Rivers, containing about 3,000, and the borough of
William Henry, about 2,000 inhabitants. The counties, cities,
towns, and boroughs, return eighty four members to serve in the
assembly of the province, who are elected by freeholders having
a freehold of forty shillings or more, yearly value.
The civil laws of Lower Canada are of French origin, with the
laws and ordinances of the provincial parliament, but the English
criminal law is established in the province. Courts of king's
bench sit in the several districts of Quebec, Montreal, and
Three Rivers; the two first holding four terms each, and the
last three terms in every year; each term continues for twenty days.
Inferior terms are frequently held in the several districts, and
commissioners' courts are established in many parishes, for the
recovery of small debts.
There are five French colleges, and many seminaries for
education in this province, exclusive of elementary schools
established in every settlement, all of which are well
supported by the province, or by lands allocated for that
purpose. At Montreal a Protestant college is in progress, and
several public seminaries in the townships are well endowed.
A great portion of the inhabitants profess the Roman Catholic faith,
and that church is well supported in the different villages and
settlements on the banks of the St. Laurence: it is under the
superintendence of the Roman Catholic Bisbop of Quebec, under whom,
in this province and Upper Canada, are several other bishops, and
a considerable number of inferior clergy, who are generally respectable,
and are well provided for by a small tithe of one twenty-fifth of
the grain raised by their own peoples besides lands and other emoluments.
The Church of England ranks next in point of numbers, and is
governed by the Lord Bishop of Quebec whose diocese includes
Upper Canada. In this province there is one archdeacon, and
about thirty inferior clergy, having that number of churches,
or perhaps more, to attend. This church is supported by
parliamentary and Church Missionary aid, exclusive of a large
quantity of land, which in a few years will increase in value,
and produce a large fund: nearly 10,000 acres of land in each
English township, have been reserved for that purpose. At
present the inhabitants of this province are only required to
provide churches, and keep them in repair.
The members of the Scotch Presbyterian Church have about six
ministers, and the Wesleyan Methodists about ten ministers,
both of whom are supported by their own congregations, and by
societies in the United Kingdoms. These are the principal
religious bodies in Lower Canada, and are the only ones recognised
by law for keeping registers of births, deaths, and marriages.
There are a few members of various other sects, but none, it is
believed, who support regular ministers. In the townships and
country parts, where there are no regular ministers, some religiously
disposed men are in the habit of holding weekly meetings with the
people for religious worship.
The taxes and duties are very moderate; a small duty of 2� per
cent is paid on all goods imported, and a duty of 5 per cent on
all liquors. Retailers of liquors, tavern-keepers, and hawkers
and pedars, pay an annual licence. These, with fines and forfeitures,
and the sale of crown lands, constitute the revenue of the Canadas.
There are three incorporated banks in this province; one in Quebec,
one in Montreal, and one in Stanstead, possessing capital of about
£750,000; the Montreal bank has a brand of that establishment in Quebec.
The trade of the province, which of course incudes the imports
of Upper Canada, gives employment to about 1,200 sail of vessels,
anually, having about 12,000 men on board, and tonnage of at least
300,000 ton, if not more.
The face of the Country, for about twenty miles back on each side
of the St. Laurence, is level: on the north, the settlements do not
extend to any very considerable distance, except up the Ottawa river.
To the south at the level tract on the south bank of the St Laurence,
the country rises into gentle swells of land, or hills, but not
broken; and the tract in that direction generally known as the
Eastern Townships, cannot be exceeded in fertility in any part
of British America. These townships are situated on both sides of
the river St. Francis, and extend southward to latitude 45�, the
boundary line between Lower Canada and the United States. An immense
quantity of land remains still to be occupied in that province, as
the country distant from the St. Laurence is rather thinly inhabited.
The population of Lower Canada is now estimated at about 650,000
souls; eight-tenths of the inhabitants being of French extraction,
and two-tenths of British birth or descent; being little more than
three persons to every square mile, including the populations of
the cities, towns, and villages.
The lands bordering the St. Laurence, and near it, were laid out
in seigniories by the French government but are not of equal extent,
some being very extensive, and others small, somewhat like townlands
in England and Ireland. The townahipo were laid out under the British
government, and contain, on an average, about ten square miles, or
60,000 acres each; and these again, are subdivided into lots of
200 acres, every seventh lot being reserved for the Protestant clergy,
and called clergy reserves: an addition of ten acres is given to each
lot for roads. The township lots are 103 rods or perches wide, by 300
rods in length, which is the same in Upper Canada also. The lots
in the Seigniories are laid out by the arpent, or French acre, which
is equal to about four-fifths of an English acre; the lot is usually
three arpents wide by thirty arpents long.
In another part of this work, the reader will find a more particular
description of those parts of Lower Canada most suitable to the emigrant,
with a minute account of the roads and distances.
UPPER CANADA.
This province lies west and south-west of Lower Canada, and is
separated from the United States, by Lake in the Woods, lakes
Superior, Huron, St. Claire, Erie, and Ontario, and by the
river St. Laurence from lake Ontario to its entry into Lower Canada.
It is bounded on the north, by Hudson Bay territory; and west and
north-west, by the British Indian territories, being about 550 miles
in breadth, from north to south, and about 1100 miles in length,
from east to west. It has between 45 and 53 degrees north
latitude, and between 73 and 97 degrees west longitude. This
fine province is altogether inland, but stands unrivalled as to
its possessing the best inland navigation in the world, having
several thousand miles of lake, or fresh water shore, and also
numerous rivers flowing from various parts of the country into
these lakes. The princial rivers are, the Ottawa, (for a great
part of its course to near its junction with the St. Laurence,
separating this province from Lower Canada,) the Rideau, the Trent,
the Humber, the Welland, the Ouse, the Thames, the Maitland, and
the Severn, with many others of minor importance. Upper Canada
is generally a level country, and the rives have much dead or
smooth water for boat or sloop navigation, even more so than
Lower Canada. The St. Laurence is navigable from Prescot upwards,
to lake Ontario, for the lake vessels; but from Prescot down to
Montreal, a distance of about 120 miles, the navigation is
interrupted by rapids in several places, being however, navigable
for boats: considerable improvements have been made in several
parts, by short canals and locks, for the purpose of avoiding
the worst of the rapids or falls.
Good roads pass through all the settled districts, exclusive of
the main or leading ones along the banks of the lakes and riven:
these reads generally run more inland than in Lower Canada, and
are placed under the inspection of the authorities. (See "Roads
and Distances.")
The Welland canal, lately opened, connects lakes Ontario and
Erie, and enables vessels to pass from one lake to the other,
and thus surmount the great falls of Niagara, which are the
most surprising works of nature, and of which it would be
impossible to convey an adequate idea: the awe and dread crested
by the fall of such an immense body of water over a precipice
of 137 feet, cannot be conceived, much less described. The Rideau
canal (now nearly complete,) passes from the lower, or northeast
end of lake Ontario to Bytown, on the Ottawa river, and from ten
to sixty miles distant on the north of the St. Laurence, opening
a fine healthy tract of Country, well situated for settlements.
This canal, when finished, will enable steam boats, (having been
made sufficiently large) to go from Montreal to all the upper lakes,
thus opening the most extensive line of inland navigtion in
the world. Of the great lakes from which this country derives
so great a facility of inland navigation, lake Hrnon is 246 miles
in 1enth, and 220 in breadth, being about 1,000 miles in
circumference: this lake receives the waters of lakes Superior
and Michagan, the latter of which does not fall much short of
the Huron, in extent, and the former is 1,500 miles in circumference.
The contents of these stupendous sheets of fresh water, to expand
whose surfaces a variety of source contribute, are again received,
through the River St. Clair, into lake St. Clair, from whence they
pass, through the Detroit river, into the other great lake (Erie)
and after rushing with inconceivable impetuosity down the great
falls of Niagara, already noticed, they fall into lake Ontario,
thence continuing their course through the river St. Laurence,
until they at length, themselves, contribute to swell the waves
of the Atlantic.
The chief town in Upper Canada is Kingston, about 200 miles
southwest of Montreal, near the outlet of lake Ontario, and at the
head of the Rideau canal. It contains about 6,000 inhabitants,
and has got a navy yard for the lakes. The next is York, which
is the seat of government for the province: it is about 170 miles
west of Kingston, situated on a covvenient harbour of lake Ontario,
and has got a population of about 3,000. There are many rising
villages scatteed throughout the province, to many of which reference
will be seen in the "Account of Roads and Distances."
This Province is divided into eleven Law Districts, consisting
of twenty-six Counties, and subdivided into 266 Townships, each
of which is about ten miles square; but vast tracts remain yet
unsurveyed.-1. The Eastern District, includes the Counties of
Glengarry, Stormont, and Dundas. 2. The Ottawa District, the
Counties of Prescot and Russell. 3. The Bathurst District, the
Counties of Carleton and Lanark. 4. The Johnstown District, the
Counties of Grenville and Leeds. 5. The Midland District, the
Counties of Frontenac, Lenox and Addington, Hastings, and Prince Edward's.
6. The Newcastle District, the Counties of Northumberland and Durham.
7. The Home District, the East and West Riding of York and Simcoe.
8. The Gore District, the Counties of Waltown and Wentworth.
9. The Niagara District, the Counties of Lincoln and Haldimand.
10. The London District, the Counties of Norfolk, Oxford, and Middlesex.
11. The Western District, the counties of Kent and Essex. Through all
these districts or circuits, assizes are held by the judges, as in
Great Britain and Ireland. The British statutes both civil and
criminal, as far as applicable with the acts passed by the provincial
legislature, form the law of the province. The Constitution is similar
to that of Lower Canada, and consists in like manner of a Governor,
Executive Coancil, Legislative Council, and House of Assembly. The
House of Assembly is elected for four years by persons possessing
freeholds of the clear yearly value of forty shillings and upwards.
The present population of this province may be estimated at about
250,000, but is rapidly increasing by enigration from the United Kingdoms,
as well as from other countries, and also by the numerous births
consequent upon the location of married persons, and who are generally
in the prime of life. Education is well supported, and making
considerable progress in the country; there is a College in York, and
besides the district and other academies, there are, in the different
settlements, elementary schools.
There are the remains of many Indian tribes here, but they do
not altogether exceed 15,000. They are a rambling, unsettled people,
and pay little attention to agriculture: some experiments have
been tried by the formation of settlements for them, and so far they
have answered the expectation of the persons who benevolently lent
their countenance and aid to the undertaking. It is hoped that in a
short time the remainder of these tribes may be induced to follow
the example thus set them, and become what they are capable of being-
an industrious, orderly, and sober people.
There are two archdeacons, and about thirty other clergymen of
the church of England settled in various parts of the province, and
are yearly increasing under the superintendence of the present
excellant Lord Bishop of Quebec, the Honourable and Right Reverend
Doctor Stewart. This church is supported by Parliamentary aid, the
British Church Missionary Society, and the seventh of the lands of
the province, which at present yields a very small income, but will,
in time, be very valuable; the inhabitants only provide churches and
keep them in repair. Methodists, Presbyterians, Roman Catholics,
Baptists, Mennonites, and other sects, have considerable congregations,
but the Methodists, and Presbyterians are considered to be the most
numerous. A number of churches and meeting houses have been erected in
various parts of the country, and add much to the beauty of the landscape;
and to the well disposed it is a cause of much thankfulness that temples
have been erected in the forests for the worship of the Most High,
where they can bow the knee at His alter, and supplicate a blessing
upon thi exertions in a new country, far removed from the homes of
their fathers; so that now such emigrants as have been accustomed to
to make religion a consideration of the first importance, need not be
disheartened by an apprehension that they are about to sacrifice to
the prospect of an improvement in their temporal condition, the whole
of the religious advantages, with which the inhabitants of Great Britain
and Ireland enjoy the privilege of being abundantly supplied
in the lands of their nativity.
The chief trade of this province is with Lower Canada, and the United
State of America, but principally with the former. The climate is
somewhat more moderate or mild in winter than in the Lower Province,
but in the vicinity of the lakes and swamps (which are numerous)
fever and ague very much afflict the inhabitants, epecially in the
south western part of the province.
Moose, and several other sorts of deer, are numerous; and to
the north-west; especially in the extensive plains north-west of
lake Superior, buffaloes are very easily met with. Brown bears,
wolves, foxes, &c. are common, but not dangerous: these, with deer,
and a variety of other animals, are to be found in the lower province.
Rattle-snakes abound in Upper Canada but are easily avoided; they are
not found in any other part of the British provinces.
The Canada Company have large tracts of land in several townships,
which they offer for sale at reasonable prices. Land may be purchased
at various rates, from three shillings to ten shillings per acre,
according to quality and situation, the value being considered nearly
the same in all parts of the province, except in the immediate
neighbourhood of towns, or places having some other peculiar advantage:
the foregoing prices apply only to woodland in its original state.
Land partly cleared, with houses erected on the farms, can be had,
but at a much higher rate of purchase, and is suited to persons
possessing some capital.
Laboar is higher in this than in the lower province; the usual hire
for farm labourers is from 8 to 12 dollars per month, with board.
The districts of this province lying between Lower Canada or the
Ottawa River and Kingston, are the most healthy, and through these
the Rideau Canal passes. The tract north of lake Ontario and Niagara
is next in point of healthiness, but is further inland; and the
western tract, though more fruitful, is least healthy. In all parts
of the country lands can be procured from the Government, by purchase,
as in Lower Canada, from the Upper Canada Land Company, and from
private individual in the different townships; and the only
difficulty the settler feels, is that of having so many lots or
farms to select from, that he is at a loss to determine or decide
upon which to take.
The settler can proceed from Montreal, either up the St. Lawrence,
or by the Ottawa river and Rideau Canal, to Upper Canada; the line
between the provinces being about 50 or 60 miles above Montreal:
and on the route he can make such inquiries and observations as
may be useful to enable him to form a correct judgment of the
most suitable place to settle in, according to his means and
circumstances. He will perceive little difference in point of
climate or soil, between Kingston and Montreal, to affect the
interests of the farmer.
From the following enumeration of roads and distances from Quebec,
Montreal, Three Rivers, and William Henry, to various parts of
both provinces, and to other places, an idea can be formed of the
route to any section of the country to which the emigrant may
wish to proceed: the distances are setdown according to the latest
calculations, and will be found correct.
ROADS AND DISTANCES FROM QUEBEC.
The main and post road from Quebec to Montreal and on to Upper Canada,
runs along the north bank of the St. Laurence. It has been well made,
and is kept in good repair; it is also very populous, presenting an
almost uninterrupted chain of farmhouses and comfortable dwellings,
generally not more than, one hundred yards distant from each other;
handsome villages also, and churches, are situated at distances varying
from 4 to 9 miles, and present a most agreeable prospect to the
traveller by land or water. The town of Three Rivers lies halfway
between Quebec and Montreal, being 90 miles from each city. On this
road bridges have been erected over all the rivers, except four, and
these are in progress: where bridges have not been erected there are
good ferry boats which convey passengers, horses, carriages, and goods
across the rivers, with great care and safety, at very moderate charges.
Quebec to St. Augustine 12 miles; to Point aux Tremble 24; to Cape Sante 31;
to Port Neuf 35; to Dechambault 45; to St. Anne's 60; to Batiscan 66;
to Champlain 75; to Three Rivers 90; to Point de Lac 99; to River du Loup 112;
to Berthier 135; to Bout del Isle, the foot of Montreal Island 165;
to Montreal 180 miles. From Port Neuf on this line,
a road is made into the country for abont 6 miles, to a new
settlement, where the emigrants are doing well. From Berthier
a road leads to the townships of Rawdon, Kilkenny, and Kildare,
where a large settlement has been formed by emigrants,
Whose spiritual wants are attended to by a resident clergyman
of the Church of England; the road extends from Berthier into
the interior of the country nearly 80 miles, and from the same
place there is a ferry across the St. Lawrence, to William
Henry, on the south side of the river, where it is four miles
wide. Various other roads lead to different parts of the country
from the main road to Montreal.
A road lads from Quebec to lake Beauport, N. by E. of Quebec, 18
miles distant, and passes through Charlebourg: at lake Beauport
there is a large settlement by emigrants. The road to
the townships of Stoneham and Tewkesbury, and to lake St.
Charles, from 12 to 15 miles distant, passes also through
Charlesbourg. Near lake St. Charles is also another emigrant
settlement. A road leads from Quebec to Vale Cartie settlement,
N. W. of that city, and passes through Loretto: this settlement
was formed by emigrants, and is in a flourishing state, the
nearest part being about 15 miles, and the most distant part not
more than 30 miles distant from Quebec. A road leads
down the north shore of the St Lawrence, through Beauport,
by Montmorency Falls, St. Paul's Bay, Malbay, &c., to the end
of the settlements in that direction.
From Point Levi, opposite Quebec, and to which steam and team
ferry boats pass and repass every hour, a road leads down the
south bank of the St. Lawrence, and is the post road to New
Brunswick, Halifax, the Bay Chaleur, &c. The distance from
Quebec to Kamouraska is 90 miles; to the Portage 110 miles, all
well settled along that distance; to Timisconata, across the
Portage 146; to Frederickton, the capital of New Brunswick,
down the river St. John 426; to Halifax in Nova Scotia 706 miles.
The road to the Bay of Chaleur leads down the St. Laurence, from
the Portage, and by the new road to Ristigouche, at the head of
the bay, which is about three hundred miles distant from
Quebec; a road leads from thence to Mirimichi, on the south
shore of the Bay of Chaleur, distant about 70 miles. Another road
leads from Ristigouche along the north shore of the Bay of Chaleur
to New Carlisle 60 miles; to Percee 120, and to Gaspee 140 miles.
A road leads from Quebec, by Point Levi, to the township of
Frampton, south east of Quebec, being a new emigrant
settlement, and about 30 miles distant. The Kenebec road also
leads from Point Levi; south to St. Mary's 32 miles; to Aubert
Gallion 62; to the height of land dividing Lower Canada
from the State of Maine 92; to Portland 23O; and to Boston 260 miles:
this is the shortest road to the States of Boston and New England.
The Craigs road also leads from Point Levi to St. Nicholas 12
miles; to which place, there are also, steam and team-boats from
Quebec, for passengers, carriages, and such other things as
may require to be conveyed that way. From Point Levi, by
St. Nicholas, to St. Giles 28 miles; to Leeds 40; to Ireland
and to Inverness 54; to Richmond in Shipton 104 miles, through
Halifax, Wolfstown, Chester and Tingwick townships. From Ireland,
a branch called the Dudswell road leads on to the head of Connecticut
river, passing through Wolfstown, Weedon, Dudswell 94 miles;
through Bury, Westbury, Eaton 120 miles; and through Newport,
Clifton and Hereford townships, to the Connecticut river, which is
150 miles from Quebec. There are only one or two families settled on
this road between Ireland and Tingwick, a distance of 30 miles,
through the woods. At Richmnd the Craigs road intersects the
roads rnnning up the river St. Francis. On the Dudswell
branch there are only three families settled between the townships
of Ireland and Dudswell, a distance of 40 miles through the woods.
From Eaton a road leads to Lennoxville, 13 miles; to Sherbrooke 17;
to Hatley 28, and Stanstead 43 miles.
From Point Levi a road also leads up the south bank of the St.
Laurence, through many villages in the southwest bounds of the
prpvince, of which the principal ones are St. Nicholas 12 miles;
Lotbiniere 45, Nicolet 99; La Bay 106;: Ymaska 123; William Henry 135;
Varronne 165; Boucherville 171; Longueil 180, being opposite Montreal,
on the south bank of the St. Laurence; Laprairee 188 miles;
Chateauguay 198, and St. Regis 230 miles, being the south west
corner of the province.
Roads from Three Rivers.
From Point an Sable, or St. Gregoire, on the last mentioned
road, opposite Three Rivers, the St. Gregoire road leads south
to the eastern townships on the river St. Francis, at Long
Point; the distance from Three Rivers to Douglas is 18 miles;
to Long Point, in Kingsey township, 40 miles. From La Bay
village, on the same road, and 18 miles above Three Rivers, the
stage and post road to the Eastern Townships runs to the
south; the distance to Campbell's Mills, on the St. Francis,
from Three Rivers, is 33 miles; to Drummondville ferry 35; up
the same bank to Whitney's, opposite Drummondville village 42;
to Long Point, in Kingsey, 54, (where the St. Gregoire road
joins this road;) to Richmond village in Shipton 60 (here the
Craigs road from Quebec joins this road;) and to Brompton
ferry 65 miles, where this road passes over to the south west
bank of the St. Francis, and joins the road on that bank from
Drummondville ferry, passing through Drummondville village,
Durham, and Melbourne. To Sherbrooke, from Three Rivers, 82
miles; to Lennoxville 86 (where the road from Eaton and
Dudswell joins the road as already noticed;) to Compton 96; to
Charleston village, in Hatley, 101, and to Stanstead Plain
village (two miles north of latitude 45, the south province
line) 116 miles. From Stanstead, to Boston in the States, 20 miles;
various other roads lead to Windsor in Vermont, Burlington on
lake Champlain, &c. From Stanstead and Charleston, on this line,
other roads lead to Montreal, Missiskoui bay, and to various other
places. This road also passes, as partly noticed, through the
townships of Wendover, Grantham, Simpson, Wickham, Kingsey,
Dunham, Shipton, Melbourne, Windsor, Brompton, Oxford, Ascot,
Compton, Hatley, Barnston, and Stanstead, and is the most
important to the Eastern Townships with its several branches; on
this road also mail and stage coaches pass and repass twice a week
from Three Rivers, and the line is, generally speaking, well settled.
ROADS FROM WILLIAM HENRY,
CALLED OTHERWISE SOREL.
William Henry, on the south bank of the St. Laurence, as already
mentioned, is 135 miles above Quebec, and 45 miles below Montreal;
and here the steam-boats from these cities daily stop during the
season, for the accommodation of passengers, and for lading and
unlading goods. It has several roads leading to the interior, the
principal of which are the Ymaska road leading to Drummondville
(where it joins the before mentioned road from Three RIvera) distant
36 miles; here it also joins the road up the St. Francis to Sherbrook;
and the road to Ymaska mountain, distant about 40 miles, passing through
St. Dennis, Si. Hyacinthe, and St, Cesaire, where it joins, the road
from Montreal to Shefford, Stukely, Stanstead, &c. Other roads lead
from William Henry up the Richelieu river, to Chambly 45; and Dorchester,
or St. John, 57 miles, at which the lake Champlain United States steam
boats arrive, and again sail from it for Albany, New York, &c., by the
lake, and a short canal to the Hudson river. Between lake Erie, at
its eastern extremity, above the Falls of Niagara, and the Hudson river
there is a direct communication by the Erie Canal, in the United States;
and of this great canal many emigrants take advantage, who by way of
New York wish for a more expeditious voyage to Upper Canada.
ROADS FROM MONTREAL.
From Lapraire seven miles above Montreal, on the south side of the
St. Laurence (and to which there is a regular steam ferry boat from
the city) a road leads to St. John, which is also the mail stage road
to New York and other places. St. John, (between which, as already
mentioned, and the States of New York and Vermont there is a communication
kept up by steam boats,) is 18 miles from Lapraire; the distance from
St. John to Albany is 150 miles, and from thence to the city of New York
165 miles. A rail-road is in progress between Lapraire and St. John,
and a canal between the latter place and Chambly. A road leads from
St. John, to the townships of Dunham, Farnham, Stanbridge, Sutton,
Brome, and Missiskoui bay, distant from 20 to 40 miles, and from whence
are various roads to the other eastern townships.
Several roads also lead from Lapraire, southward, to the township of
Hemmingford, Hinchinbrooke, and Godmanchester; also to Chateauguay,
Caldwell's Manor, L'Acadie, and on to the Western part of the State
of New York. The last mentioned townships are from 15 to 30 miles
from Lapraire, and are situated between the Richelieu river and
the St. Lawrence.
From Longueil, opposite Montreal, on the south shore of the
St. Laurence, a mail stage road leads to Stanstead, Boston, and
other places; from Montreal Ferry to Langueil 2 miles; to
Chambly Bason 14; to St. Cesaire 30; to Ymaska Mountains 40; to
Granby 50; to Frost village in Shefford 65; to Stukeley, 75;
to outlet of Magog lake, 90; to Georgeville village 100; to
Stanstead Plain village 115; and from Stanstead to Boston in
the United States, 200 miles. From Ymasca mountain a new
road is opened through Milton, Roxton, Ely, and Melbourn, to
Richmond village in Shipton, a distance of about 30 miles. From
Granby, on this road, a road has been opened to Farnham, which
also communicates with other places. From Shefford and Stukley
roads lead to Brome, Dunham, Missiskoui Bay, ann to other parts.
From the outlet of Magog, roads lead to Potton and Bolton; another
road from the outlet to Sherbrooke, distant 20 miles; and one to
Charlston village in Hatley, distant 15 miles, from thence roads lead
to Barnston, Compton, and Eaton, besides several other places
with which they communicate. The roads now enumerated are the
principal ones leading from the south east bank of the river
St. Laurence to the Townships and United States: large grants
of public money have been lately expended on the most of them,
and they are now generally in pretty good repair.
A post road leads from Montreal to the north west, up the
north east bank of the Ottawa to Hull, and Bytown as follows.-
From Montreal to St. Martin's, 12 miles, to River du Chene 18,
to St. Andrew's 45, to Grenville 60, and to Hull 124 miles.
Bytown is below Hull on the south west bank of the Ottawa, and
at the mouth the Rideau Canal, which leads to Kingston, and there
joins Lake Ontario in Upper Canada. From this line of road others
also lead to the Perth settlements in the upper province; but the
Ottawa river being now navigated by steam vessels adds much to the
convenience of travelling in this section. Perth is 193 miles,
Richmond 122, and Bytown 113 miles from Montreal.
The main post and stage road to Upper Canada from Montreal
runs up the north bank of the St. Laurence to Kingston,
and in the summer season while the navigation of that river is
open, a stage conveys passengers to Lachine from Montreal
9 miles, where they take a steamboat which conveys them up the
St. Laurence to Coteau du Lac, 36 miles; and here they take the
stage again to Prescott 90 miles, at which place they meet the
Lake Ontario steam boats to Kingston, York, Niagara, &c. The road
passes along the bank thus:- From Montreal to Lachine 9 miles,
(where there is a ferry to cross to the south west bank of the
Ottawa from the Island of Montreal). From Montreal to Coteau du Lac
45 miles, to Lancaster in Upper Canada 66, to Cornwall 87, to
Matilda 120, to Prescott 135, to Brockville 147, to Kingston 195,
to Bath 207, to Adolphustown 223, to Hallowell 235, to Bellville 243,
to Cobourg 300, to Port Hope 307, to York 367, to St. Catherine's
at the mouth of the Welland Canal 451, to Niagara 463, to Queenstown 470,
to Oxford 457, to London 490, to Amherstburg 612, and to Sandwich
620 miles, to Victoria 419, and to Guelph the Head Quarters of the
Canada company 395 miles. Several of these places do not lie in a
direct line, but are noticed for the information of the emigrant.
Besides the roads that have been noticed there are several
others leading to various parts of the interior; and Montreal
being a central point of the Canadas, the emigrant when there can
easily procure such additional information as he may conceive
necessary, and can without difficulty proceed to any part of the
North Americea continent which he may select.
SECTION II.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ARRIVING IN CANADA.
Emigrants who have left the land of their nativity and made
choice of America as their future country, have done so no
doubt with a view of bettering their condition, or to avoid
apprehended changes in their circumstances, to which most
persons in the middle and lower classes of society are subject
in the united kingdoms; and here it may not be improper to remark,
that any industrious well meaning man is certain of acquiring
in the Canadas a competency for himself and his family, without
fear of those sudden alterations of fortune which often destroy
the fruits of long and painful toil and exertion. It is desirable
that such expectations should not be frustrated, or the emigrant
delayed in the attaining his object by want of information respecting
the country in which he is a stranger; this small work has therefore
been written with the intention of furnishing such general knowledge
of the most important portions of the Canadas, as will enable him to
form a proper estimate of the soil, climate, produce of the country,
amount of population, state of society, religion, agriculture, cities,
towns and villages, roads and canals, lakes and rivers, the system of
government, and of the various means of obtaining land and the title therein.
It is not unusual for the emigrant on arriving in America to feel
disappointed and dissatisfied, and many for a short time regret
having left their native country. Every thing appears strange,
especially to the warm-hearted Irishman; he cannot forget the
hospitality to which he has been accustomed-strangers and
interested persons are frequently to be met with -the scenery, manners,
customs, and the language of a considerable portion of the inhabitants,
differ from what he has been accustomed to at home, and many are watching
for opportunities to take advantage of his inexperience. He is
therefore for a time disposed to form an opinion unfavourable
to America, without considering that he has but just landed in a
strange city or seaport town, and that it was never his
intention to settle in such a place. It is also probable that
he may have conceived too high expectations of what was to be
immediately possessed in the country-a thing which not unfrequently
happens, from the numerous exaggerated and extravagant accounts that
have been transmitted by ignorant and foolish persons of very little
experience themselves; it is therefore necessary to caution the emigrant
against suffering himself to despond, as many persons have been led
astray by such expectations, as well as by the equally fallacious and more
flattering statements of others who may have pointed out various distant
settlements where ease and comfort are to be had. The stranger
travels from place to place, and at length, when his means are
exhausted, he is obliged to settle in a situation far inferior to many
that he has passed by; finding, when too late, that he might
have obtained good land in many advantageous situations, without
spending his money and time as he has done, and which he could have
avoided had he received a fair and unbiassed account of the country.
To emigrants of the labouring class, I would recommend a speedy
application for work, and if it cannot be had in Quebec immediately
after they land, they should at once proceed into the country, to
some of the nearest settlements, where they will most probably succeed
without any considerable delay. Let them, however, not refuse the
first fair offer of employment, as it is much better to be engaged;
and in a short time they will become acquainted with the manners and
customs of the people, their method of farming, &c., and, if industrious,
sober, and honest, they will speedily get higher wages and certain
employment. Public works are also carried on, such as canals,
roads, bridges, and public buildings, in which many find
employment and good wages, varying from half a dollar to three
shillings per day without board. In the Townships of Upper and
Lower Canada, higher wages for labour are given than in the
French Canadian settlements near the St. Laurence: the inhabitants
on each side of that river, all through Canada, and to the extent of
five or six miles back from its north and south banks, are generally
of French extraction and speak that language; for which reason, to the
British labourer many difficulties present themselves that are not to
be feared among his own countrymen. There are many, hewever, that can
speak English, and if the emigrant can obtain employment he
should not refuse it, as he may have offers in the French
settlements; but it would not be adyiseable for him to seek for
work among them, when the Townships, which are inhabited by
British and Irish emigrants, lie so convenient, being
immediately in the rear of the French Seigniories. In a
short time, the labourer will be enabled to purchase a lot or
farm, which is easy to be had in all parts of the Country; so
that in a few years, he may, by sober honest iadustvy, expect
to live comfortably, and get forward in the world. When he once
becomes the proprietor of a piece of land, all his work is for
his own benefit, no rent or taxes being to be paid: he has the
full produce of the soil for his support; and the surplus he
can send to market, when and how he pleases, as he is not in
dread of the agent coming to distrain him for the rent, or the
collector of the county cess, or the tithe proctor, with many others
which are the daily visitors of the farner in England and Ireland.
It is this that makes the Canadian farmer feel really independant;-
in fact he is the lord and master of his own estate, and many that have
landed in Quebec without a pound in the world, have been
able to realize by this course what is here represented, and
can now, from their having had themselves substantial proof of
its reality, testify that it is not an imaginary picture, but
one to be met in Canada every day. However, it is necessary to
observe that the idler, the drunkard, or the seditious, must
abandon his vicious practices and habits, and in fact become
another man, before he can expect to succeed in Canada:
-to such it holds out no expectations of success, and many are
to be met with who, while they have left their native country,
have not, however, left behind them their former vices-these
were poor and wretched before they set out for Canada, and
their condition has been little improved by change of country.
How galling has it often been to the sympathies of a
tenderhearted emigrant, to recognise some old neighbour reaping
the fruits of his misconduct, while chained to the stocks or
undergoing some other deserved penalty, notwithstanding a hope
he might have entertained that the unhappy culprit had left
home with full purpose of amendment.
Emigrants who have got any eapital should, as soon as possible
after landing, decide on the part of the country they wish to
settle in, and at once proceed to examine it; the distance and
delay to be measured by the depth of their purses-that is, if their
means be small they must seek for land as near as they can match
themselves, and not foolishly exhaust their money in moving to distant
places, while suitable situations may be obtained near at hand. Prudence
and promptitude should guide their conduct, and they may
comfort themselves with the expectation that in a reasonable
time, by perseverance and industry, their exertions shall be
crowned with success.
Strangers on arriving in Canada are often liable to be imposed upon,
not because in it are to be found more impostors than in other countries;
but they meet many person willing to offer their advice, which, unless
from an intelligent friend, should be received with the utmost caution.
Wild, visionary, or romantic ideas or situations should not be
the objects of pursuit, and nothing, however attractive at first
view, should determine the choice, unless upon sober deliberation it
were found to have circumstances connected with it to render the
speculation a prudent one:-the salutary counsel of a disinterested
friend should always be a desirable thing, as it will ever be found
to be of great service, but especially in cases where inexperience is
a bar to the competency of our own unaided judgment.
In Quebec his Majesty has appointed A. C. Buchannan, Esq., Resident Agent,
for the purpose of giving information gratis to settlers; to him they
should apply, as he will be able to give them much useful information
and instructions, and point out where lands and employment may most
probably and readily be obtained.
Before giving further directions it may be necessary to insert a
few cautions to the stranger arriving in Canada. And in the
first place, temperance is earnestly recommended; many upon landing feel
elated at having once more fixed their feet on firm land, and
all sorts of spirituous liquors being cheap, when their prices are
compared with those for which they are purchased at home, they are often
led to indulge too freely in the use of them; not always with the
intent of pursuing such a course of intoxication, but to gratify the
desire of the moment, when, alas! a vicious inclination gratified, even
for, a short time, more generally leads fo a confirmed habit, and this
brings on, as its necessary consequence, poverty, disease, and all sorts of
misery, which by a very natural combination must, eventually
secure the death of their unhappy victim! Hundreds, yea thousands,
have in these provinces been hurried to an untimely grave by this habit
-persons who were once temperate, but whose intemperance it is believed
may be traced to the above mentioned origin. Emigrants will therefore do
well, both for themselves, their families, and society in general, by
avoiding this baneful practice, however difficult their palates may find
it to resist its baneful solicitations, or whatever false estimate they
may themselves form of its contributing to promote sociability. They
should always be cautious of taking draughts of cold water in warm
weather, or when heated by labour and exertion, as it frequently in this
country causes instantaneous death.
Again, it is necessary to caution the stranger that he may often meet
persons who will urge him to travel inland to distant parts, out of
pure regard for his welfare as they will assert; but, on enquiry, they are
generally found to be individuals interested in the disposal of
lands to which they would direct the attention of the unsuspecting
emigrant, or in steam boats and other modes of conveyance from which,
of course, a profit must be derived to themselves proportional to the
number that may avail themselves of the accommodation which they offer
to persons proceeding in the same direction. Nothing is more common in
Quebec on the arrival of a vessel with passengers, than for agents of
steam boats, and such friends to go on board and advise those who are
about landing to proceed to Montreal since, according to their
representations, no wise person would stop short of that part of the
country.* The poor deluded stranger is again advised in Montreal,
by other pretended friends who may be found interested in transporting
goods or passengers to Upper Canada, that he should by all means proceed
upwards, for what wise man, say they, who has yet to settle himself,
would remain in the lower province where he could get nothing but
Fremcj onions and soup meagre.- The thankful wanderer is in this
manner handed from one to another until he is at length introcuced to
the blessings of the western wilderness, and no doubt should often be
forwarded to the pacific ocean, if his purse continued unexhausted,
or could he find friendly carriers to accommodate him with the modes of
conveyance. He will also meet friends still more lavish of their
benevolence, who would fain persuade him, that no wise man desirous of
persuing the most effectual plan for the advancement of his interests,
should remain in the British provinces, and that friendly persons could
be procured who for a reasonable compensation would conduct him into
the United States. Such has been heretofore the practice, and the
newly arrived emigrant would do well to weigh in the balance of sense
and discretion the advantage and necessity of proceeding very far inland,
as, if led on by no other prospects or certain inducements than wild
speculations, he may run the risk, after having considerably diminished
his capital by the expenses connected with travelling, of being reduced to
the alternative of taking up his abode in a settlement considerably
inferior, in point of all advantages, to what he might have procured
lower down, with much loss trouble, and before he should have incurred
the expenses of his journey; or, taking all things into consideration,
not better than he might have possessed himself of in a week after landing.
Doubtless, having connections in distant parts, and particular views, with
various other considerations, will and should influence a man to
make a choice and proceed accordingly; but more on this head
hereafter. These cautions are given merely to make the stranger
aware, that every inducement which may be held out to him
on landing will not always prove such as should have any weight
in regulating his determination. In most parts of the Canadas
good land is to be found, but in this the emigrant must expect
to find some disadvantages connected with advantages, as well in
America as in any part of Europe.
*It is but fair to state that the proprietors of the steamers on the
St. Lawrence are very liberal to emigrants in reducing the fare.
SECTION III.
DIRECTIONS RELATING TO VARIOUS PARTS OF LOWER
CANADA FAVOURABLE FOR SETTLING IN, WITH A FEW
OBSERVATIONS ON THE SETTLEMENTS ALREADY FORMED.
Having briefly given a general outline of the Lower and Upper Provinces,
with the roads and distances between the several places of any importance,
and having suggested a few particulars which the newly-arrived emigrant
may find of use to put him on his guard against imposition; we shall now
proceed to take a view of several of the most favourable parts of Lower
Canada, such as may probably prove most agreeable to the settler, and
have also got the greatest quantity of wild land still unoccupied. The
Seignorial parts of the Province being mostly taken up by Canadians of
French extraction, or likely to be so in a short time by their families,
the Townships present the most encouraging field to the industry of the
emigrant; being in fact also the best land in the Province, and
English being the language spoken among the inhabitants in consequence
of their being themselves persons not long arrived from the
United Kingdom, and from the States. There are, however, many
parts of the Seigniories yet unoccupied, in which are to be
found very favourable situations as well as cleared farms easy
to be obtained; and many emigrants have purchased farms of this
description in the Seigniories, especially in the vicinity of
Quebec and Montreal.
In the country parts hereafter mentioned, the emigrant may
apprehend that he should be at too great a distance from the
great markets of the Province, not being acquainted with the
country; but it may be observed that farmers residing two
hundred miles or more from Quebec and Montreal, if on good
land, can live well and improve in their circumstances if not
better, at least as well as those who have taken up their
residence within a few miles of the cities.- This being the
fact, I feel desirous to impress it on the minds of those for
whose information I am writing these pages, that the colonist who
makes choice of a more distant settlement is not liable to the
expenses incurred near Towns, and farms are had on much cheaper terms.
For many years he finds for the surplus of his produce a consumption
on the spot among those who are daily arriving, and who must for some
time, before they can enjoy the fruits of their own labour, supply
themselves with the articles necessary for present use from the stock
of those who have already settled themselves; and fat cattle, hogs,
and horses are easily conveyed to distant markets, or they are bought
up by the drovers before it is found necessary to remove them.
The first I shall notice are the Townships in the county of Beauce;
lying about 30 miles south by east of Quebec. In one of these, the
Township of Hampton, there is a settlement newly formed by emigrants,
which contains at present a population of seven or eight hundred.
The land, though light, is of a very fair quality, and the occupiers
generally doing well. In this, and the the adjoining Townships, what
is denominated wild land can be purchased at five shillings an
acre, or even less. Carters may be engaged at Point Levi, to
convey loading to this place, at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. 0d. per
load; and to that part of the country the road is good. From
Beauce we shall proceed to describe in succession as they extend
to the west, the several Township Counties heretofore known as
the eastern Townships, though they are more properly the southern
Townships of the Province.
The next to Beauce, and to the west of it, is the county of Megantic,
the way to which from Quebec is by the Craig's road, or the Kennebec
road up the Chaudiere river. The settlements already established there,
are situated on and near the Craigs road, in the Townships of Leeds,
Inverness, Ireland, Halifax, and Broughton; the principal ones being
in Ireland, Leeds, and Inverness. These have only been lately formed,
and in a manner very much to their credit, and furnish a demonstration
of the industry of the occupiers who amount to about 2000 souls. Leeds,
as has been shown in the Account of Roads and Distances, is from Quebec
40 miles S. by W., and is the place of election for this county. The
lands in these Townships are generally good, easily cleared, and
such as in which situations can be had that present to the industrious
a variety of advantages: they are well irrigated by the head waters of
the St. Francis, Nicolet, Becancour, and Chaudiere rivers, and the face
of the country undulated with gently rising hills and fertile valleys.
Several small lakes, (the most considerable of which is the Megantic,
at the head of the Chaudiere River, from which the county derives its name,)
with ponds, brooks, and a number of rivers, beautifully diversify the
scenery, and to the places through which they pass impart an unusual
fertility; so that of this it may in truth be said that it has experienced
from the bountiful hand of Nature much liberality in the distribution of
her favours. Mill-sites and water power are to be found in abundance and
will not be wanting when a numerous population may require these necessary
conveniences; saw mills in particular are indispensible appendages to
all new settlements in the wilderness. Grass when cultivated, or the
seed sown, grows with great luzuriance in all the Townships, and here
all the other productions of the soil in this province may be raised
with advantage; and among the many other luxuries with which the
agriculturist may expect to have his industry rewarded, is to be reckoned
the maple sugar, which, in its proper season is extracted from
the trees of that name in such manner as shall be hereafter
described. Although a very considerable proportion of the lands
in the neighbourhood of the settlements, has been already granted,
but a very small part, however, is yet settled on. Many thousand acres,
of excellent quality, are the property of the heirs of Joseph Frobisher, Esq.
and are now offered for sale. Here the price of land varies much, being,
from four to ten shillings per acre, near the settlements, but in other
quarters may be had on much cheaper terms.
Two small lakes, one in Ireland, and the other in Halifax and
Inverness, both connected by a small river, form for boats a
water communication of about twenty miles, which could be easily
extended north to the St. Laurence, eighteen miles, and south to
the lake St. Francis, two miles. It could still, with comparatively
trifling expense, be continued down the St. Francis to Lennoxville,
and thence through lake Massiwippi to lake Magog, in Stanstead.
This would be of incalculable advantage to the townships. For such a
communication as I have now described, Nature appears to have formed
this route between Quebec and lake Magog, as vallies, gullies, ponds,
lakes, and dead waters, seem to invite the hand of man to lend its
cooperation, and take advantage of the facilities which they offer to
the rapid progreas of art: and what presents most encouragement to such
a work is that, than the tract of the country through which it should
pass, is one of the most fertile in the Canadas. From surveys, made
in the United States, a canal is projected to connect the head of
lake Magog with lake Champlain, to the west, and the Connecticut river
to the east; a part of lake Magog lying within the state of Vermont.
A view of a map of the sections, will at once point out the importance and
feasibility of the communication proposed; and a tax of one
penny per acre on the lands through which it should pass, would
provide a fund adequate to complete it in three years. This county is very
large, comprising, the townships of Somerset, Nelson, Halifax, Inverness,
Ireland, Wolfstown, Leeds, Thetford, Broughton, Coleraine, Tring, Shenley,
Oulney, Winslow, Dorset and Gayhurst; each containing in surface, about
one hundred square miles of land. In these infant settlements, they
enjoy the benefit of several elementary schools; and in Leeds, there
is an English church in progress, with a settled minister; in Ireland
they have got a Wesleyan Methodist chapel. The respective populations
of the inhabited townships are nearly as follow:- Leeds, 800;
Inverness, 900; Ireland, 500; Halifax, 50; Broughton, 200; and
scattered here and there, 250 souls.
The next county which claims the attention of the settler, is
that of Drummond, lying west of the last county noticed, and
north of Sherbrooke; and nearly central between Quebec,
Montreal, Three Rivera, and the United States. This county though
large, is not populous, having but about 3,000 inhabitants.
It comprises the townships of Aston, Bulstrode, Horton,
Stanfold, Athabaska, Chester, Ham, Wotton, Tingwick, Warwick,
Wendover, Simpson, Kingsey, Durham, Wickham, Grantham, Upton, and
Acton, with their gores and augmentations. The part of it to
the north, in the townships of Wendover, Simpson, Upton, Grantham,
and part of Wickham, and adjoining the seignories, is generally of
an inferior quality, except in a few situations. In these latter townships
generally, the land does not appear to be inviting to
emigrants, yet it is freely taken by Canadians of French
extraction, who exhibit much patience and perseverance in
turning their attention to the improvement of such places.
Interspersed many lots are to be met with of a superior quality,
and furnishing to the improving occupier, an abundance of blue
marley clay, which can be conveniently raised to enrich the
lands requiring such amelioration.
South and east of these townships, in the same county, the land is
very good, few in the province exceeding in quality of soil, &c.,
the townships of Kingsey, Tingwick, Chester, Durham, and part of Wickham:
they are also well watered by the St. Francis and Nicolet rivers, whose
fertilizing powers are aided by the friendly contiibutions of many small
streams.
Drummondville village, which is forty five miles from and to the
south of, Three Rivers, and thirty-six miles south east of William Henry,
is the county town, being the place of election, and where the Registry
Office is kept. It contains about twenty houses, a Protestant Episcopal,
as also a Roman Catholic church, a school-house under the Royal Institution,
several stores, a post office, and two good taverns. This section was a
wilderness until the year 1815-16, when government decided on forming a
settlement on the tract of waste land between the seigniories on the
St. Laurence, and the townships to the south. Drummondville was chosen
for a military settlement, that is, for discharged soldiers; not to
the exclusion of any other emigrants who may choose to fix their
residence there: each settler was located to one hundred acres
of land, and had a year's provisions granted by government, as
also a variety of tools and some other matters that might have
been considered necessary to contribute to the comforts of an infant
colony. The expense attendant upon such encouragement becoming
enormous to the government, it was found necessary to withdraw it,
which check, combined with the failure of the crops in the years
1816 and 1817, and with the circumstance of the land itself being
generally of inferior quality, caused many who had settled there to
abandon it. Since that time many of the deserted lots have been occupied
by families of French Canadians, with every favourable prospect of
success. This village was almost wholly consumed by fire, in the year 1826;
but has since arisen from its ashes. About half a mile lower down,
is the seat of Colonel Herriot, C.B. and P.A.D., who, from the commencement,
was superintendant of this settlement, and has been exerting all his
influence to forward its importance: he was the first member returned,
to represent, in the provincial parliament, the county, after its
establishment in the year 1829. Being a near relative, of the
late much lamented General Brock, Governor of Upper Canada, who
lost his life at the battle of Queenstown, in the late war with
the States, and having also distinguished himself during the
same war, as Field Officer in command of the Lower Canada
provincial troops, Colonel Herriot now deservedly enjoys the
confidence of his government.
To the Indians of the St. Francis, or Abinaquois tribe, belongs
a large tract in the township of Durham, but, though given to
them on condition of settlement, they have never effectually
attempted to improve it. Some years since, their agent, with their
own consent, leased a number of lots to persons who removed from
the Drummondville settlement principally, the land in which the
Indians had property being very good. The leases were given for
twenty-one years free; after the expiration of which term the tenant
is obliged to pay annually, one-third of the produce of all crops raised.
Litigation and trouble are likely to arise from this confused and
uncertain tenure; but the land being of such a quality as presents
striking inducements to its cultivation, improvements have been made
with considerable advantage by the lessees; how far the title may hold
good is a question yet to be decided.
Land is easily got in this county at from three to five shillings per
acre; and here, as well, as the county of Sherbrooke, of which we shall
presently give a sketch, several extensive landholders offer portions
of lots, of fifty acres or more, off the original lots of 200 acres,
to actual settlers, on condition of settlement, and keeping in repair
the road across the parts so taken up, until the remainder shall have
been sold or occupied.
The township of Kingsey was the first part of this county that
was colonized, thirty years ago, and now exhibits a very
flourishing settlement. They have in all the settlements
established elementary schools and school houses, in which also
religious meetings are held, whenever they are visited by
ministers. The inhabitants of the county are almost wholly
British emigrants; and but a few Canadians and Americans from
other quarters. The principal roads, as already noticed in the
account of roads and distances, are the Craigs road, which,
passing through the county of Megantic, enters this county, and
through Chester and Tingwick leads on to Richmond, Sherbrook,
&c.; the St. Gregoire road, which, from Three Rivers, passes
through Acton, Horton, Wendover, Simpson, and Kingsey, meeting
the road up the eastern side of the St. Francis to Richmond;
and the Ymaska road, which passes from William Henry through
Upton and Grantham, to Drummondville, meeting the road up the
western bank of the St. Francis, to Durham, Melbourn, Richmond,
Sherbrooke, &c..
The populations of the settled townships respectively, are
nearly as follow:- Upton, 200; Horton and Aston, 100; Wendover, 200;
Grantham, 600; Simpson, 50; Wickham, 300; Durham, 500;
Kingsey, 600; Tingwick, 203; Chester, and scattered in the
other townships, 100 Souls.
The next county of importance to the emigrant, being more
extensive and more thickly inhabited than either of the former,
is that of Sherbrooke, lying south-west of Megantic, and south
of Drummond counties, and north of latitude 45, and the State of
Vermont. It comprises the townships of Garthby, Hatford, Whitton,
Marston, Clinton, Woburn, Stanhope, Croydon, Chesham,
Adstock, Tingwick, Weedon, Dudswell, Bury, Hampden,
Ditton, Emberton, Drayton, Auckland, Newport, Westbury, Stoke,
Ascot, Eaton, Hereford, Compton, Clifton, Windsor, Brompton,
Shipton, Melbourne, and Orford, with their gores and
augmentations. This county is well watered by the head waters
of the rivers St. Francis and Nicolet, with brooks, which are to
be found in great abundance; the face of the country is hilly,
but not mountainous, unless a small ridge in Stoke and Westbury;
and both soil and climate are mare favourable than in the
counties before described. The townships near the leading roads
which pass through this county, offer considerable advantages to
the agriculturist; most of those already settled there have been brought
up in the wilderness, having chiefly emigrated from the United
States, whose industry, enterprisizig dispositions, and habits
of settlement in a new country, have, in a great measure, opened
this tract to the more easy access of such other settlers as
may feel disposed, by setting their steady and persevering
examples before them, to participate in their comforts. There
are also in this county many others, who have emigrated from
tbe United Kingdom, together with some families of French
descent; they are settled in a way both advantageous and
creditable to themselves, thus, by their present condition,
demonstrating that this country bountifully rewards the efforts
of those who steadily pursue a course of application and
industry, in places teeming with benefits to as many as here
court the favours of Providence, by bringing the fertility of the
soil into active and skilful operation. The population of the
whole county may, at present, be estimated at about 10,000 individuals.
The village of Sherbrooke is the county town, in it being kept
the Registry Office; but the election is held at Richmond, in
Shipton, as well as at Sherbrooke. The latter is also the seat
of judicial proceedings for the district of St. Francis. It is
situated on the south-west bank of the river St. Francis, where it
is joined by the waters of the Magog, whose descent into the former
affords many of the advantages of water communication. It contains
about thirty houses, besides a court-house, a good substantial
brick jail, a Protestant church; a Roman Catholic church, a meeting
and school-house, flour and saw mills, pearl-ash works, a post-office,
several country stores, &c.; also a woolen factory, lately erected by
C. F. H. Goodhue, Esq., which is likely to do well. This village appears
well situated for trade, and has a good deal of intercourse with the
different parts of the district. Although it has not much flourished
heretofore, it is to be hoped that through the enterprising spirit and
activity of the chief proprietors, the Hon. Mr. Felton, and C. F. H.
Goodhue, Esq., it will make a rapid progress in the several branches of
improvement, situated, as it is, in the midst of a beautiful country,
and surrounded with good land, which is as yet but partially settled on,
to the east, west, and north. A Weekly Newspaper is published here.
About six miles west of Sherbrooke is Belvedere, the residence of
the Hon. Mr. Felton, Commissioner for the management and sale
of crown lands, and what are called clergy reserves. In the year 1816,
he commenced his settlement in this place, than entirely a wilderness;
and, with a great expenderitur of capital before roads were opened,
cleared about a thousand acres, and built a handsome dwelling house,
offices, farmhouses, &c. A road passes Mr. Felton's place, from
Sherbrooke to outlet of Magog, and meets the Stanstead and Montreal road.
The village of Richmond, in the township of Shipton, twenty-two miles
below Sherbrooke, is, as has been already observed, the other place of
election for this county; and is situated on the east bank of the river
St. Francis, where the Craigs road, from Quebec, meets that river.
This village has about a dozen good dwelling-houses, (several built of
brick,) a Protestant Episcopal church and school, two excellent and
extensive hotels, a post office, three or four country stores, tanneries,
hatteries, also large stone-built, grist and saw mills, with extensive
pearl-ash works, &c., chiefly the property of W. S. Wales, Esq. An
academy to be built of brick, is in progress, which, when finished, will
be of great advantage to this part of the country. On the side of the
St. Francis, opposite Richmond, in the township of Melbourne, is also
a rising village, which has got several good buildings, a meeting house,
stores, &c. Also ten miles north-east from Richmond, on the Craigs road,
commonly called the Back of Shipton, there is a flourishing settlement,
and a village, the name of which is Danville: having several stores, a
meeting house, schools, pearl-ash works, fulling and carding machines, &c.
Between, Danville and Richmond may be seen a small, but neat, Roman Catholic
chapel; and in the township are also Presbyterian and Methodist congregations.
South of Sherbrooke, about four miles, is situated the village of
Lennoxville, which has got about a dozen good dwelling houses, a
Protestant Episcopal church, a meeting and school-house, a country store,
a tavern, post-office, &c.
From Lennoxville a road runs eastwardly to Eaton, which is rather
well settled. In Eaton, there are two Episcopal churches, two stores,
several schools, tanneries, pearl-ash works, &c.; there is also here a
Baptist Society, and some others of various denominations.
The country from Lennoxville to Compton, a distance of ten miles, is
well settled. In Compton, there are two country stores, an Episcopal church,
a post-office, several mills, &c.
Eaton and Compton contain each a population of about 1,500;
Ascot about 1,200; Shipton, 1,500; Melbourne, 800; Hereford, 200;
Chifton, 150; Westbury, 100; Dudswell, 250; Stoke, 20; Orford, 300;
Brompton, 300; and Windsor, 200; these being the only townships
colonised in the county.
The chief roads are-the Dudswell, passing from the county of Megantic,
through Weedon, Dudswell, Bury, Westbury, Eaton, Clifton, and Hereford,
into the state of Vermont, at the head of the Connecticut river- a branch
of this leads from Eaton to Lennoxville; the Craigs road, leading
from QUebec throgh. the counties of Megantk and Drummond, and passing
through Shipton to Richmond, in this county; the roads leading up each
bank of the St. Francis, through Shipton, Melbourne, Windsor, Brompton,
Orford, Ascot, and Compton, continuing on towards Stanstead; and the
Ymaska, mountain road passing through Melbourne.
From the observations that have been made it will be seen tht few places
offer more advantages to settlers, than the chief part of this county.
Wild lands may be purchased at prices varying from 2s. 6d., to 7s. 6d.,
per acre; and partially cleared farms also may be had on reasonable terms.
Should a man decide on buying crown or clergy lands, he may effect the
purchase at once on the spot, from Mr. Felton, or from his agents at
Sherbrooke. Baggage may be conveyed from Three Rivers to Sherbrooke,
eighty-two miles, at from four to six dollars per load; and travellers
by the mail stage, for five dollars.
We shall now proceed to give a description of the county of Stanstead,
lying southwest of the county of Sherbrooke; it is bounded on the south
by lat. 45, the provincial line between this province and the state of
Vermont, and on west by the county of Missiskoui. It comprises the
townships of Hatley, Stanstead, Barnston, Barford, Potton, and Bolton;
and is tolerably well colonised, having a population of about 10,000,
chiefly emigrants from other parts of America; but there are still in
all its townships, except Stanstead, large tracts of wild land of a good
quality. The Township of Stanstead is the best settled in the province.
Many partially cleared farms might be obtained in this county on easy terms,
and with good titles, an opportunity which has been in many instances
embraced, by British emigrants. From its contiguity to the States,
a considerable share of commercial intercourse exists between the
inhabitants and their American neighbours, to the advantage of both parties.
The chief village is Stanstead Plain, in the township of Stanstead, two
miles north of the Lines, and thirty three miles south-west of Sherbrooke;
115 miles south of Montreal, 150 miles southwest of Quebee, 116 miles south
of Three Rivers, and about 200 miles northwest of Boston. Stanstead Plain
village is on a plain surrounded by hills, and consists of about fifty
houses, some of brick, and others of wood, in neat style. In it are are
also to be seen a number of stores, a post office, tanneries, a paper mill,
pearl-ash and cast iron works, cabinet makers, hatters, watchmakers,
saddlers, &c.; it has got besides, a printing office which issues a weekly
paper, a handsome brick Presbyterian and a Methodist chapel, an academy
and school, and a large free church, for the use of all denominations,
north of the village. Between this, and Three Rivers and Montreal, is a
stage communication twice a week, as also to and from the United States.
The township contains about 4,500 inhabitants; and, besides two academies,
has about thirty elementary schools in active operation.
The village of Georgeville lies about fifteen miles north-west of Stanstead
Plain, in the same township, and on the east shore of lake Magog, a beautiful
sheet of water, about thirty miles long and five in breadth: about one
third of the south part of the lake is in the state of Vermont. Several
picturesque mountains to the west and north of the lake, contribute much
to the beauty of the scenery, and generally round it the land, though high,
yet slopes with a gradual declivity to the water's edge; and all round, in
every direction, are to be seen well improved farms and farm houses.
Georgeville is a handsome village, and consists of about forty houses,
several stores, a post office, a seminary, and other schools, an Episcopal,
a Methodist and a free church, pearl-ash works, together with some other
country manufactures.- There is here a ferry across the lake, which is
one of the ways from Stanstead to Montreal. This is one of the places of
election for the county, and it is here the registry office is kept. Ten
miles to the north, is a small village of about a dozen houses called the
Outlet of lake Magog, in which there are fulling, and carding mills,
grist and saw mills, pearl-ash works, stores, taverns, schools, &c. and the
main road from Stanstead, Hatly, &c. to Montreal passes through it.
The other place of election for the county, is the village of Charleston,
in the township of Hatley about halfway between Stanstead plain and
Sherbrooke. It consists of about twenty houses, a neat Episcopal church,
an academy, school, stores, post-office, brewery, pearl-ash works, &c.;
and about a mile distant, is a neat free church for the accommodation
of all parties.
Throughout this county, and, indeed, in the eastern townships
generally, schools for elementary instruction are never
neglected after the settlements are once formed; a circumstance
which attaches much credit to the character of the inhabitants;
and where they are not provided with churches, they meet in the
school-houses regularly on the Sabbath, for social religious
worship, convinced of the obligation under which they lie, of
paying a tribute of praise and thanksgiving to Him who is the
anthor of every good gift; and that it as not only a "reasonable
service," but also their interest to pray for a manifestation of
his grace among them, his guidance, and his protection. Thus,
by the aid of Divine grace, do they mutually contribute to promote
among each other, the growth of religion, without which all
other blessings are but imaginary; but which, when earnestly
sought after and possessed, can temper the cup of affliction
with happiness, (should such in the dispensations of Providence
ever fall to the lot of its possessor,) and convert the most distant
land into a home.
Montreal is the chief foreign market for this county, unless
for horses and cattle, which find a readier sale in Quebec. Vast
quantities of pearl ashes are sent by waggons and carts in
summer, and by sleighs in winter, to the former of these
cities; and in return are brought back such commodities as there
may be demand for in the villages and other parts of the townships.
The face of the country is hilly but not broken, and is well watered
by Lakes Magog and Massiwippi, together with various small streams
which lend their aid; and though the most distant county from the
St. Lawrence, it is however the most desirable part of the province
to settle in, from the information possessd by the inhabitants and
their enterprising charactrer, and from its being throughout the whole
so abundantly supplied with farms, good roads, schools, &c. as may be
seen from the more minute accounts already given. Wild lands are, as
may be expected from the superior advantages of which it can boast,
higher in this county than in any of those before noticed; being generally
estimated at from five to ten shillings per acre, or more.
The principal roads are, that from Shefford county and Montreal, through
Hatley and Stanstead to Stanstead plain, and another road to the same
place from Sherbrooke through Charleston. The whole country is however
interspersed with good roads, for a more particular detail of which see
the account for roads and distances. The populations in the several
townshops of this county are nearly as follows;- Stanstead 4500;
Hatley 2000; Barnston 2000; Bolton 1200; Potton 700; and Barford 100.
The next, as holding out inducements to the emigrant, of the state of which
I shall endeavor to furnish him with some information, is the county of
Shefford. It is situated northwest of Stanstead and west of Sherbrooke
counties, and nearer to Montreal than any of the former; the post roads
from that city to Stanstead pass through it. The usual route to Shefford
from William Henry and Montreal is by Ymaska mountain. Frost Village, the
centre of the county, is distant from both these towns about sixty miles.
This village presents a handsome appearance, and has got about thirty
houses, an Episcopal Church, a school house, taverns, several country
stores, a post office, pearl ash works, a tannery, and several other
conveniences; it is also the place of election for the county, and where
the registry office is established.
About five miles west of Frost Village is the small village of Waterloo;
and about ten miles further on towards Montreal is Granby Village,
consisting of about a dozen houses, stores, school, &c. From these
village roads lead in several directions to the different townships of this
county as well as to Missiskoui, Stanstead, Sherbrooke, &c.
The Ymaska river might by a little improvement, be rendered navigable to
boats into this county, which is well watered by its head branches. The
land is generally good upland, intespersed with many fertile valleys,
and which, in alternate succession with gently rising hills, the face of
the country is indented. Of the inhabitants three fourths are American
emigrants, and the remainder are from the United Kingdoms. Many are in
possession of good farms, and the easy access there is from this to the
Montreal market renders the situation a very eligible one.
The price of wild land varies from two and six pence to seven and
sixpence for the acre, but no doubt will rapidly rise in value; and
a great portion of the best quality remains still unoccupied, but
henceforth no doubt many persons will feel it their interest to
direct their attention that way, as roads are now opened through it
in several directions, the chief of which are these already noticed,
and the road from Ymaska mountains to Melbourne, lately opened, and
passing through Milton, Roxton, and Ely.
The population and townships comprised within this county are as
follow.-Shefford about 1200- Stukeley 500- Ely 50- Roxton 20-
Milton 50- Brome 1100- and Farnbam 1000 souls. At Ymaska
mountain, joining to, though not in, this county, is a flourishing
settlement of American and British emigrants, who are provided
with an English church, schools, stores, post office, &c. The
land is good but not in the townships, it being a Seignory.
The county of Missiskoui, lying south of Shefford and west of Stanstead
counties, next claims our attention; and of those formed out of the
Eastern townships is the only one that remains to be noticed.
In this also were made the first settlements in the townships in
the year 1794. It is smal, consisting only of the townships of
Dunham, Stanbridge, Sutton, and the Seignory of St. Armand; but is
however the most populous of the township counties, as it
contains a population exceeding 10,000; and, except in Sutton,
most of the lands are occupied. It lies adjoining the state of
Vermont, having on thir west Missiskoui Bay on Lake Champlain.
The country is intersected in every direction by a number of roads
leading to the other townships, to the United States, St. John, and
Montreal, from which city the centre of the county is about fifty miles.
The principal village is on Missiskoui Bay, and contains between
sixty and seventy houses, with regular streets and some wharfs,
a seminary, school houses, two Baptist meeting houses,
a Methodist chapel, an Episcopal church, stores, a post office,
pearl ashe works, &c. The Bay is about four miles wide,
opposite this village, which is favorably situated for trade,
and has considerable share, being about a mile north of the province line.
The village next in importance is Dunham, which is one of the
places of election, and where the registry office is kept. It
lies about l6 miles north east of the former, and consists of about
forty houses, an Episcopal church, stores, schools and a post office;
in it are also to be found pearl ash works, country manufactures, &c.
The other place of election is Freleighsburg in St. Armand, about ten
miles west of Missiskoui Bay on Pike river; which contains about thirty
houses, an episcopal church, nail factory, post office, stores, schools, &c.
In this county there are not any large rivers, but it is well
irrigated by Pike river, which discharges itself into Lake Champlain,
and by some other smaller streams. The land is generally good, and the
farms in a flourishing state; and in all the settlements, which are
making a rapid progress in wealth and respectability, the agriculturist
and tradesman possess abundant facilities of mutually contributing to
the advancement of each other's interests, through the medium of those
various factories that have been already noticed. Wild lands are worth
from fire to shillings per acre according to situation.
It is colonized chiefly by American emigrants with some from Great
Britain and Ireland, who are all both enterprising and intelligent.
The population may be estimated in the following proportion- The
Seigniory of St. Armand about 4000 -Township of Dunham 3000- Sutton 1000
and Stanbridge 2500. Between this county and the Richelieu river,
St. John, Chambly, &c.; many American and British emigrants settled on
good lands in the Seignories; being well situated for settlement.
The aforesaid counties now described contain that tract of Lower
Canada heretofore known as the Eastern Townships, and lately divided
into the said counties of Megantic, Drummond, Sherbrooke, Stanstead,
Shefford, and Missiskoui. Before this division they were attached to the
Seignorial counties and de facto had no representation in the legislature
of the province. Roads and public improvements were left to the industry
of the inhabitants, and these being scattered over a large tract of country
were extremely bad. But in 1829, after many fruitless applications,
a new division of the province took place, and these counties were
set off as above described; they now enjoy the privilege of returning
nine members to represent their interests in th assembly of the province,
and have had leading roads opened and improved, which in a short time
will add much to the value of real property in this important section.
The settlements were only commenced in these townships between
the years 1794 and 1803, but in Drummond, Megantic, and Shefford they
are of a much later date. The first settlers, emigrants from the
United States generally, penetrated into the wilderness and fixed
themselves in places where they were often removed distances of from
40 to 60 miles from mills or neighbours, and without the convenience of
roads unless Indian tracks, the only thread they had to guide their
way through the intricacies and labyrinthes of the forest; but by
perseverance and application, to which they were stimulated by a sense
of the advantages they enjoyed in the quality of the soil, they at
length surmounted the numerous obstacles and difficulties with which
they had to struggle in this arduous undertaking. Times are now altered,
and those who proceed to settle there can enjoy all the advantages of
having the country already opened, leading roads through which is given
a free access to the various benefits of commerce, a facility of obtaining
provisions at hand until they can regale themselves with the fruits of
their own industry, as also the advantage of a residence in the neighbourhood
of farmers who from their own experience, are well acquainted with the
plan of laying out and clearing a wooded country.
South of Montreal, and west of the Chambly or Richelieu River, are the
Counties of Chambly, La Prairie, L'Acadie, and Beauharnois. They are
laid out in Seigniories, extept the townships of Sherrington, Hemmingford,
Hinchinbrooke, and Godmanchester, lying near the Province Line, lat. 45,
which divides this province from the State of New York. The townships
have been generally colonized of late with emigrants from the United Kingdom,
but the seigniories are almost wholly settled with French Canadians, among
whom, however, are many British and American emigrants, particularly
towards the south part of these counties. Farms, partially cleared are
easily obtained; and also seignorual uncleared lands of a good quality.
The climate, soil, and situation, are all favourable to industry: its
vicinity to Montreal, (distances from various parts of from ten to thirty
or forty miles,) and to the garrisons of Chambly, St. John's, and the
Isle of Noix, renders it doubly so. This section of the country is
intersected with many roads leading to Montreal and the United States. A
number of Canadian villages and churches greatly ornament the face of
the country, which is quite level with the exception of a few isolated
remarkable lumps of rocks or mountains of peculiar formation which tend
to diversify the scenery and render it attractive to the traveller's eye.
Through a part of this tract, between Montreal and Lake Champlain, a
Canal is contemplated, and a Rail road is already in progress. The County
of Beauharnois has an easy access to Montreal by the St. Laurence, and
Chateaugnay rivers. Though a great portion of this section is the most
populous part of Lower Canada, it still presents many favourable situations
to the enterprising settler.
On the Island of Montreal, farms may be taken at an annual rent, and
purchased on favourable terms; but near the city lands sell very high.
The island is very fertile, and many British agriculturists are settled
there on farms which they have either at a yearly rent or by purchase.
It is somewhat triangular, being about 30 miles long by ten, where broadest,
and is well settled throughout, having the advantage, of good roads
intersecting it in every direction. Exclusive of the population of the
city, which contains 30,000 souls, that of the island may be estimated at
about 13,000. The City of Montreal is situated on the south east side
of the Island, at the head of Ship Navigation on the St Laurence, in
lat. 45, 31 north, and west longitude 73, 35; its situation being
unrivalled for climate, trade, soil, or local advantages. A more minute
description is considered here unnecessary.
North of Montreal, in the county of Terrebonne and Lake of the Two Mountains,
many British and American emigrants are favourably settled, especially
in the seigniories of Terrebonne and Argentueil, St. Andrews, the township
of Chatham, and the vicinity of the Ottawa River. It still offers many
inviting tracts for settlement from 20 to 50 miles north and west of
Montreal, with which it enjoys an easy communication by good roads and
the Ottawa River.
West of Montreal, and joining Upper Canada on the west, is the county of
Vaudreuil; lying between the St. Laurence and Ottawa rivers. By roads
from Montreal to Upper canada, passing through the county from east to
west, as also by the rivers, there is free communication with that city,
from which it is distant from 15 to 5O miles. This county is granted in
Seignories, having only one Township,-Newton. The principal villages are
Coteau du lac, the Cedars, and Vaudreuil. The land is generally good, and
has many situations on which the agriculturist may speedily find himself
amply remunerated for his pains. A number of emmigrants from the United
Kingdom are settled in various parts, and are in possession of good
productive farms; with other comforts which they enjoy, may be reckoned
the advantage of a climate, if not better, at least equally good as that
of any other part of the Lower Province.
Northwest of Montreal, and on the north east bank of the Ottawa River,
is the county of Ottawa; being a northwest Township county lately laid
out, and northwest also of the county of the Lake of th Two Mountains.
It has much good and productive land, as well as a large supply of
valuable timber; from which is chosen a considerable portion of the
timber exported from Quebec, adn is found to be of a superior
quality. The settlements are confined to the bank of the Ottawa;
the principal of which is Hull, and was commenced by Phileman Wright, Esq.
who in this place, more than twenty years since, had to struggle
with the inconvenience of settling in a wilderness far away from civilized
society; but by active industry and perseverance surmounted every obstacle
and at length effectually succeeded in showing the beneficial effects and
advantages that can be derived from a steady course of application.
The inhabitants, who amount to 2500, are emigrants from the United States
and Great Britain, and are much employed in the timber trade.
The Navigation of the Ottawa is improving, and is expected to be in a
short time navigable for Steam Boats from Montreal to Hull; and in
connexion with the Rideau canal, now nearly finished, will be navigable
to the same sort of vessels through Upper Canada to Lake Ontario, &c.
Along this line, and in this section of the province, are wide and
encouraging fields, which afford to the emigrant full scope for the
exercise of an enterprising spirit. With this county may be concluded
the observations on the Lower Province, which it has been
considered he may find of some use in directing him whither to
turn his attention in choice of a resting place from his wanderings,
before he can proceed to that actual expenditure of capital and labour
from which he may expect to derive his future comforts; being well
persuaded that if he cannot find situations to his taste and satisfaction
in the parts noticed, he will find it difficult to please himself
in Lower Canada.
Besides the parts described, there are certainly other places in this
province, which hold forth to the emigrant fair prospects, but these
being thought fittest for him, have been described more minutely,
with an earnest wish that this attempt may have the desired effect,
in giving him correct information, and enabling him to make such a
selection as will best answer the end for which he has, or shall have
emigrated from his native country.
SECTION IV.
COMPARATIVE VIEW OF BOTH PROVINCES,
WITH SOME
FURTHER REMARKS ON THE UPPER.
There are, no doubt, many emigrants who find that they have
reasons of sufficient weight and importance to decide them in
favor of settlements in tHe Upper Province. To as many a know their
own reasons best, and have already given due consideration to the
circumstances that should justly influence them not to confine their
speculations to the Lower Country, it may be observed that it was not
with the intent of forcing into a different channel from what they
had marked out for themselves, the choice of such, that the
cautions suggested to guard an inexperienced stranger from
imposition and from being led astray upon his first arrival in
America have been given; for convinced as the writer of these pages is,
that there are very many who, from the time they first make up their
minds to emigrate, have upon fair and rational grounds decided
upon going at once to some part of the Upper country, and that
there are others who may yet before they leave their own country
feel it their interest to pursue the same course, he certainly
does not presume that upon their determination should operate hints
that are given only for the guidance of those who may be quite
undecided whither to turn themselves, and have no reasons of their
own sufficient to prevail upon them to give one province a preference
beyond the other. But as it is not practicable to be equally minute in
detailing the several particulars connected with the present state of
Upper Canada, as with that of the Lower Province, in consequence of its
not being so extensively settled or taken up for agricultural purposes,
they who may feel disposed to make choice of some part thereof as the
scene of the future industry and improvement, are referred to the more
general description already given as also to what has been noted respecting
the facilities of communication already established by roads, and the
improvement of inland navigation. In the general view its peculiar
advantages by reason of which many will think themselves warranted in
preferring it to the Lower Province have been stated; where it has been
observed that it is generelly a level country, and that the rivers have
much good level water for boat and sloop navigation, even more so than
Lower Canada. Another of its peculiar advantages there noticed, is
the more moderate climate, a consideration which should often preponderate
when put into the scale against other advantages by such as have regard to
whatever is calculated in any measure to preserve to them the blessings
of a sound constitution; but those who know how to estimate duly so
valuable a possession as good health, should guard against fevers and
ague, to which persons residing in the vicinity of lakes and swamps,
especially in the south Western parts of the province, are exposed;
against this inconvenience, however, we may set that arising from the
fogs which often prevail towards the sea in the Lower province. It
may also be observed that though in the latter province there is such
a vast extent of good land that mnny years must roll over our heads
before it can be all so taken up as to render it difficult for the
newly-arrived colonist to settle himself to his satisfaction; however
in the Upper the soil is more generally good and seldomer interrupted
by veins of more inferior quality; and generally because it has not yet
been so extensively cultivated, land is cheaper- a circumstance which
of course deserves to be taken into account by those who have got but
a very trifling capital; although, as has been already stated, whatever
be the depth of a man's purse, he can meet no great difficulty in
suiting himself in the lower province, and that before he has incurred
the additional expense of travelling so much further up the country.
To those also of the labouring class, if they can conveniently
compass the expense of so long a journey, Upper Canada presents the
encouragement of higher wages. It is hoped that because the substance
of what is here given in this comparative view, of the relative advantages
of both provinces has been already stated in former parts of these pages,
it will not be considered superfluous in this place, as it has been
considered necessary by presenting every thing in the most impartial light
possible, to guard the reader against any misconception that it
is by an excessive partiality for the lower province, the author has been
induced to more minuteness in his account of it than of the upper.
But though the present state of that province does not call for so much
minuteness in describing settlements, villages, and various other
particulars connected with its localities, some information may be given
which the emigrant who may decide upon giving the preference to Upper
Canada will find of use to assist him in his choice of a settlement.
Those who seek the advantages of obtaining a speedy conveyance to the
larger markets, for such commodities as they shall have to dispose of,
and with equal dispatch to get in return whatever being indispensible
to the agriculturist, is not to be found among the productions of his
own farm, will find a settlement on the banks of lake Ontario, and not
far removed from Kingston, a very desirable one, if they be possessed of
capital sufficient to enable them to make a purchase, where a combination
of so many advantages must render land very dear. Heretofore between
this and Montreal, navigation has been much impeded and rendered dangerous,
by the numerous rapids that are to be encountered in the St. Laurence;
but this cause of complaint will not long exist, as by the great canal
works noticed in the more general view of the province, steam boats will
have a free and easy course to the Ottawa river, which joins the St.
Laurence, within a few miles of Montreal, from which place to the Atlantic,
the navigation is free from all manner of local interruption. Settlements
formed along the Rideau canal, will be found to confer considerable
advantages on their occupiers, from the connexion that it must establish,
when completed, between foreign commerce and the agriculture of that
country. Another circumstance that renders the situation a desirable one,
is the opposite, but equally beneficial, effects which lake Ontario has
on the temperature of both seasons; from its very great depth it is never
frozen in winter, on which account, the neighbourhood, during that time,
enjoys the benefit of a comparatively clement season; so, in summer,
the breezes that pass over its surface, constribute greatly to cool the
atmosphere. The same effects are, of course, to be expected from the
other large lakes, upon the places immediately in their vicinity.
But the Huron, a tract which extends over 1,100,000 acres, in the London
District, besides the strong recommendation which it receives from the
properties it possesses in common with other tracts, holds forth to a
farmer of small capital, the additional inducement of cheap land; and
even in that remote quarter, settlers who make choice of situations on
the great lake of that name, are not cut off from the benefits of
navigation, as it communicates with the Atlantic through lakes Erie
and Ontario.
Goderich, the chief town of this district, is situated where the river
Maitland discharges itself into lake Huron, and from its many advantages,
presents favourable prospects of rising to considerable importance.
Several establishments, which must promote the interests of agricultural
commerce in the surrounding tract, are here contemplated.
It is true, that there are other parts where land can be obtained even
cheaper than in, this tract; but this alone cannot be a consideration,
sufficient to influence a judicious farmer to settle himself, where
he must do it to the exclusion of more important advantages; and as this
has met with the unqualified approbation of many persons of good
judgment, by whom it has been explored and carefully examined, it may,
for many reasons, be found such as will suit the circumstances of persons
whose own inclinations would lead them to choose a remote settlement.
The unsettled emigrant, who may expect to derive information of any value
from the perusal, of these pages, (in which expectation, it is hoped, that
he shall not find himself disapointed,) is now left, by a comparison and
careful observation of what has been said, both generally and particularly
of each province, to decide where a settlement may best suit his
peculiar circumstances; and to him who has already decided upon
the situation on which he purposes to plant himself, what is to
follow may be found to convey no unacceptable information.
HOW TO ASCERTAIN THE QUALITY OF LANDS.
Next to the choice of situation, that which concerns a settler,
before he should take any steps towards making a bargain, is to
make himself acquaintedwith the quality of the soil; for which
let him remember, in the first place, that when choosing land in
a state of nature, he may commonly know its quality by the Sort
of timber growing thereon. -Thus, a mixture of all kinds of
hard and soft wood, (that is, evergreens and such as shed their
leaves,) of a healthy growth, without too much underwood, has a
corresponding good soil fitted for most sorts of agricultural
productions. When the land is covered with firs or evergreen
trees, called soft wood, they indicate a poor sandy soil, which
is by no means to be recommended. The absence of all fir or
soft wood, denotes a better quality, and if there be no timber
growing on it but maple and beech, the soil is light and sandy.
From a growth of large elm, maple, birch, oak, walnut, beech,
basswood, and some hemlock, with little underwood, may be expected
the best soil, if dry; but examination will satisfy the inquirer.
Large tracts of flat land are often met with, covered mostly with
tamarack or larch, where the upper soil is sandy to the depth of
from eight to twelve inches on a substratum of marly clay, which,
when cleared and drained is very durable and good, as deep ploughing
brings up the clay and fertilizes the surface. Emigrants, however,
seldom like to settle on such land, while the French Canadians generally
prefer it, the largest tracts of this quality being found in the
seigniories, near the St. Laurence, in Lower Canada. This sort is
not susceptible of such speedy cultivation as the former kinds, it
being generally necessary to drain it, and extract the roots of the trees,
before it can be ploughed or cultivated to advantage; while, on
the other hand, hardwood upland can be immediately cultivated the
same year, after having cleared off the timber, without extracting
the roots; or even beforehand, the crop often amply repaying the
expense of clearing and bringing it to that state.
DIRECTIONS RELATIVE TO THE OBTAINING OF LANDS
-SECURING TITLES THEREIN-
WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE SEVERAL KINDS OF TITLE, &C.
Government heretofore adopted various methods in settling the
waste lands, by several successive plans laid down for that
purpose. A complement of land was given gratis to every settler,
on certain conditions of settlement; but this is now no
longer the case, as at present all the crown lands are sold on
easy terms of payment. Officers and discharged soldiers,
however, receive grants gratis, in the following proportions:-
Privates, 100 acres; sergeants, 200; sergeant-majors 300; Subalterns 500;
Captains 800; Majors 1000; and all higher officers 1200 acres.
It is thought the British Government were led into the plan of
selling land, from the comparative failure of the several other
plans that had been previously adopted, and from a hope that such a
system would tend to prevent the accumulation of large tracts in the
hands of unimproving individuals. Commissioners for the sale of
crown lands have been accordingly appointed in the several provinces,
who keep offices for this purpose at the Seats of Government where
all persons may purchase at a fixed rate, called "The upset price."
There are also for the same purpose in various parts of the country,
Agents appointed by these Commissioners. In several places, at
certain periods of the year, "The upset price" being fixed by
Government, lands are set up for sale and struck off to the
highest bidder on any of the following conditions.-In the first
place, to such as pay the full price, they immediately get from
the Crown a direct title in free and common soccage for ever.
Next, to those who pay down one fourth of the purchase the three
other parts in annual instalments, free of interest: no right
further than occupying it is given, until the whole purchase
money is paid; and the land, if not paid for as agreed, may again be sold.
Poor persons wanting 100 acres, or less, may have the same by
paying down one year's interest on the amount of the purchase,
and every other year doing the same till the principal shall
have been paid up; the land being liable to revert to the
Crown, if the interest be not punctually paid:-the purchaser
may however, instead of continuing the plan of paying
this way, clear up what may be still unpaid of the principal at
any time convenient. Unless the whole of the purchase money be
paid, no person can sell or transfer lands thus obtained,
without the consent of Government, which is easily got if the
parties wish, or appear to act uprightly. The emigrant may be
able to effect a purchase of crown land on any of the conditions
now mentioned, in Quebec, or in York, on his arrival in either
province, and choose such terms as will best suit his views and
circumstances, as the title obtained from tile crown is the best
that can be' procured. To these offices therefore the settler is
particularly referred, as by making himself there acquainted with
the terms and some other particulars, it will give him a general
idea of the value of lands in the several townships and their vicinities.
The prices of Crown lands for the current year, (1832) in Lower Canada,
in the townships open for sale, are as follows-In the townships of
Stanbridge and Dunham ten shillings per acre. In Farnham, Stanstead,
and Compton four shillings per acre. In Sutton, Granby, Shefford, Milton,
Potton, Barnston, Clifton, Hereford, Eaton, Shipton, Windsor, Kingsey,
Melbourne, Ely, Durham, and Upton, five shillings. In Bolton, Westbury,
Newport, Wickham, Ireland, Leeds, Hallifax, and Inverness, four shillings.
In Wendover, Caxton, &c. two shillings and six-pence. In the townships
on the Ottawa river, and south of Montreal, five shillings. And in those
of Stoneham and Tewkesbury, north of Quebec, four shillings.
In other cases when the settler purchases land from private individuals,
or from proprietors on an extensive scale, who are always met with in
large towns, good titles may be had, but he will do well to have proper
legal advice as to the manner of sale, security of title, &c. In the
townships of Lower Canada, and in Upper Canada, offices are established
for the registry of any incumbrance affecting real or landed property,
and in such places secure titles may be easily obtained; otherwise,
great caution is requisite in persons who are unacquainted with the
laws and customs of the colony, as in a considerable extent of the
settled parts of Lower Canada it is difficult to procure good or
sufficiently secured titles to land.
Partially cleared lots which would make desirable farms, may be had
for ever in most settled parts; they can be procured in more easily,
and on cheaper terms, than wooded land could be purchased for and
afterwards cleared by a person who is a stranger to that business,
and are more desirable to the British farmer who, by availing himself
of such lots, would be at once able to settle and keep stock to farm with,
and thus be the sooner in the actual enjoyment of comforts, and free from
those inconveniences that are sometimes felt by those locating in the
woods. In mnny cases such farms with from ten to thirty acres or more
of cleared land, can be purchased for less money than wood land, adding
thereto the cost of clearing, being put into that state by persons who
prefer clearing to farming;, therefore to the settler who has
got sufficient money for that purpose, such farms would be an advantage
if the soil be good- on the contrary, if bad, the labour of clearing
is thrown away, and his circumstances become the most uncomfortable.
Bad land being harder to be cleared than good, which fulfils the old
Yankee proverb, "it is like a bad horse, hard to be caught, and when
caught, good for nothing."
Another method of obtaining land, of which it may be necessary
to apprise the settler, prevails in the Canadas. Persons advanced
in life are often met with, who, either not having children, or
having them already settled in life, desire to make their old age
comfortable without labour. They will give their farms, implements,
and stock, to an honest industrious person, who binds himself either
to support them during their lives, or else may pay them a certain rent
for the same term, upon the expiration of which, the tenant enjoys the
whole without further payment. In such cases, he will do well to be
cautious, and consult an honest lawyer on the form, conditions,
&c. before he involve himself in what, if not properly secured,
may ultimately prove to have been a severe burden. But if all things
are found regular and fair, the acquisition of a cleared farm and
stock by this means, would be a great advantage to the poor settler.
It is common also to rent farms for terms of from one to seven
years, longer leases not being frequently given; in such cases
the yearly rent is from seven shillings and six pence to fifteen
shillings per acre near the cities and large towns, and from five
to ten shillings at a distance of from ten to twenty miles. Cleared
farms are also frequently let on shares; that is, the owner of the farm
stocks it with horses, cattle, agricultural implements, and
half the seed necessary to be planted or sown; the tenant in
return is to pay as rent half of the whole increase of the stock
produced on the farm; being bound in all cases to cultivate it to
advantage, and take all necessary care of its fences, and of such
other matters as may require to be attended to.
The Upper Canada Land Company, who have agents in Quebec, Montreal,
and various other parts, have vast quantities of land scattered all
over the upper province, besides the Huron Tract already noticed,
which consists of 1,000,000 acres near Lake Huron, 600 miles above
Montreal. Their agents will be able to inform the emigrant of their
terms, and to show from surveys the various situations and lands to
be disposed of, the quality of the soil and all other particulars
connected with it, as well as the route to be taken by the purchaser.
They give titles of the land they dispose of, in free and common
soccage for ever.
The lands granted by the British government, since the conquest
of Canada from the French, which include almost the whole of
the upper and the townships in the lower province, are granted
in free and common soccage; by this tenure the owner is lord of
the soil, which is not liable to any rent or charge whatever,
mines only being reserved by the crown; and in this manner the
land is sold and transferred from one to another, subject to no
condition or reservation unless by mutual agreement.
In Lower Canada that tract along both banks of the St. Laurence,
from its mouth to Upper Canada, and extending back from the
river from ten to twenty miles or more, having been granted by
the French government before the conquest, is conceeded under a
decription of title not familiar to the British settler; it
shall, therefore, be described more particularly, as there are
many desirable tracts of seignorial land, very favourably
situated near the St. Laurence, and easily obtained. The
substance of what follows on this head is taken from a work on
Canada, by Colonel Bouchette, Surveyor General.
The lands alluded to were conceded by the French king in Seigniories,
Fiefs, or Baronies, according to the Feudal system. The Seignior
holding the seigniory, fief, or barony, from the king as lord paramount
for public settlement, each seignior as he comes into possession, and on
the accession of a new sovereign, is obliged to do homage and
fealty for his seigniory, and on all transfers or sales of the
seigniory to pay to the king a quint or fifth part of the
purchase, which, if paid instanter, causes a reduction of
two-thirds; so that in fact the seignior was not much more than
an agent to the king, to settle a portion of the country, and
receive certain emoluments for doing so and taking care of the same.
The seigniory is more or less in size from one to one hundred
square miles in surface. The Seigniors are by law obliged to concede
or lease lots, of about ninety acres each, of the seigniory to tenants
or censitaires on certain conditions that are easy: the tenant has
a lease for ever and pays for a lot from a halfpenny to a penny per
acre yearly, with other trifling considerations which come to about
the same. Latterly the seigniors have been charging more, whether legal
or not, is not so clearly, ascertained. The seignior has the
exclusive right to the grist mills on his seigniory, to which
the tenants are obliged to give employment, by using them when
they have any thing in that way to get ground the charge being
one-fourteenth for grinding. Lands are also held on leases of
from twenty to fifty years or more, subject to a very small
rent, which titles are termed bail amphiteotique. Other lands
are held by what is called Franc allen, a freehold similar to what
is called free and common soccage, being exempt from all charges
to any person but the king. Another sort of title is called censive,
subject to a yearly rent in money or produce. All these that have
been enumerated include the different forms of title granted in the
seigniories.
A most material privilege however belongs to the seignior or
landlord of the seigniory, which is called lods et vente or part
of the sales, being a twelfth part of the value of all farms
sold from one to another on his seigniory, which every purchaser
must pay; but a deduction of one-fourth is made for prompt
payment. Thus, whenever a farm on a seigniory is sold, the seignior
claims a twelfth of its value, which is a great draw back on industry;
for if a person takes a lot worth 10£, and then expends on it 1190£,
thereby making it worth 1200£, on the sale thereof the seignior
claims 100£, to which he can have no equitable claim, though legal.
Besides these privileges and emoluments to the seignior, he has the
right also of droit de retrait, which is, that he can claim any
farm sold by the tenant, within forty days after the sale, by
paying the highest price for the same. He can also claim a
tithe of all fish caught on the seigniory, besides being entitled
to fell forest timber any where on the same for his house, mills,
roads, public works, and the churches. Some seigniors have compounded
for all their rights, unless lods et vente, by receiving a greater
yearly rent, that is, from fifteen to twenty shillings per lot:
The same remedy might be applied for lods et vent: also, and thus have
justice done to all, by charging a yearly rent; and not suffering it
to be as at present a tax on improvement. However, when the land is
not sold there is no lods et vents to pay, which is only a grievance
when a sale takes place. The French Canadians are generally partial to the
seignorial titles, perhaps from habit, and in consequence of having
them associated as they are with their laws and religion; the Roman
Catholics, who occupy farms in the seigniories, are obliged to pay a
tithe of one twenty-fifth, of all grain raised by them, to their own
clergy, besides assisting to build and repair their churches, parsonages,
&c. The seigniors to whom these seigniories belong, either live on them
or have resident agents, who are always ready to concede lands, and give
titles at once with scarcely any expense.
CURRENCY OR COIN CURRENT IN CANADA.
Before we proceed farther, it is necessary to inform the stranger,
that the pounds, shillings; and pence, in these colonies, commonly
called Halifax currency, are in value ten per cent below the pounds,
shillings, and pence, sterling. Thus 100£ sterling is equivalent
to 110£ currency. All the current gold, silver, and copper coins of
Europe and America pass here in that proportion of value. The guinea and
sovereign pass respectively for about tweuty three shillings and
four pence, and twenty-two shillings, and some times more if the rate
of exchange is high on England; the dollar five shillings; the British
shilling one and a penny; the English and French crown five shillings
and six pence, and their several parts in proportion. In most places
bargains are made by the number of dollars, as four dollars make one pound,
which is a ready mode of calculating. It is hoped that this will not be
considered an irrelevant digression, as the emigrant who has not had
experience himself in these matter, must require to be taught by others
in order that he may find the less embarrassment in making such
preliminary arrangements as are necessary before he can proceed to
occupy himself in the more immediate works of agriculture.
SOME MATTERS TO BE PROVIDED ON PROCEEDING
TO SETTLE.
Having now endeavoured to give, in what I conceived to be the
most natural order, such directions and information so that the
emigrant cannot be at a loss how to conduct himself in any of
the preparatory steps to be taken, either in making choice of
situation, ascertaining the quality and properties of the soil,
making a purchase, or procuring a lease of a farm, and securing
his title therein, I shall next proceed to give such further
hints as be may find useful, after all the other arrangements
shall have been fully made to his satisfaction; before which,
it may be no harm, in addition to what has been already said,
again to remind him that however good the quality of the land
may be or eligible its situation in other respects, it will
nevertheless be of importance top pay attention to the following
particulars: Whether there be roads or communications leading
to, from, or near such lands; for if they do not possess these
indispensible conveniences he will find it a circumastance
attended with much trouble, as there should be a road at least
within three miles of him, if not more immediately contiguous.
Whether they be in the vicinity of, or have easy access to, a market
of some kind, either store, village, town, or city, as any one of
them will generally answer the generation that settle the land;
grist and saw mills are equally necessary, not forgetting the
neighbourhood, neighbours, &c. And lastly, but not of least
importance, the security or validity of the title in the land
to be purchased. By paying due regard to these particulars, and
acting with discretion and prudence, he may proceed at once to
his land, and under the blessing of Divine Providence need not
fear the result: sobriety, industry, and perseverance, will be
sure to crown his exertions with the desired success.
In proceeding thus at length, after he has surmounted all his
preliminary troubles, to settle himself on his farm, he will
require to ascertain if provision can be got in its
immediate vicinity, if not to provide them in the most
convenient place possible, as it will be well to save the
expense of carriage; otherwise he should buy them in the town
before starting. He should be also provided with suitable axes
for chopping, with strong hoes, a spade, grinding stone,
pickaxe, hand-saw, files, chissels, planes, a cross-cut saw,
spoke-shave, hammers, nails, hinges, locks, glass and putty.
The axes, hoes, and grinding stone, are what he will find
necessary for clearing, but the other implements will be
found very convenient, as the settler will be able to do and get
done many useful and necessary jobs by being provided with them.
Many, if not all, of these articles may be got near the farm,
especially the axes, and if cheap it will be best to buy them
there, otherwise to purchase them where most convenient and
cheapest. Loading, whether passengers or luggage, will be conveyed
for one penny a mile per cwt. land carriage, or less, according to
circumstances: French Canadians will cart cheaper than any other,
but the employed will remember to make the best bargain he can.
In travelling by land it is customary to carry provisions for the
road; and to stop at any farmer's house for refreshment, as public
houses are not always convenient on the different roads. It is in
no wise recommended to the settler of contracted means to buy horses
for a new farm, on which there is not much grass. A cow or two with
a yoke of oxen (with a yoke and chain to work and clear land) can be
easily supported on brushwood, and will live well in the woods,
a few acres of which may be inclosed with fallen trees, so as
to prevent the cattle from straying away; but when accustomed to
get a handful of salt once or twice a week, they will always
return of their own accord; however a good cow-bell should be
strapped about the neck, to indicate, if necessary, where they
may be found. Horned cattle may be nearly supported during the
winter also on hardwood tops and brush wood. The following
prices of cattle and articles are, what are generally given at
present in Canada; which will not be found, to differ much in
either province, unless when the size or breed make the alteration:
A much cow from 3£ to 5£; a working horse, from 7£ to 10£; sheep
from 7s. 6d. to 15s.; a yoke of oxen from 8£ to 12£; young pigs
from 3s. to 4s., and, if six months old, from 10s to 15s.; a plough
from 2£. to 3£.; an ass from 7s. 6d. to 10s., &c.; but from these
rates there must be often a deviation, as the season, place, and other
circumstances, cause the prices to be either below or above
those mentioned. In all cases it will be prudent for the settler
to inquire concerning the value of such articles in the neighbourhood
where he is purchasing them, and to act accordingly in making his bargain.
BUILDING.
A supply of such necessaries as the settler may require being
provided, a convenient lodging in the neighbourhood of his farm,
will be the best to procure until a log house can be erected. If
this cannot be provided, a log camp may be speedily erected in
a few hours, where a family can comfortably lodge for some
time, and in which (being built with logs and covered over with
bark, split timber, boards, or fir tops) more comfort will be
found than expected, especially after the confinement
experienced by the emigrant on board ship. When this is effected
another camp may be erected in which to place his goods, and
thus he will find himself lodged at home on his own estate;
which often gives more real satisfaction than elegant and costly
mansions do to the great. Care should be taken that no large trees
be left standing near the house or camp, which in falling might reach
it, as in consequence of having their roots running near the
surface they are liable to be laid prostrate by a sudden gust of
wind. It would be advisable for the settler, if he have got the
means, to employ a man accustomed to clear land for some time,
by which way he would in a short time become fully acquainted
with the business: or it would be well if he could contract for a
job of three or four acres to be cleared off, which generally
costs from two to three pounds per acre, the stumps of the trees
being left in the ground, which is not only the usual plan, but in
fact the best and cheapest. This he should get done round about the
site of his intended buildings, which ought to be in a dry situation,
and near good water. As soon as there is a sufficient space cleared
for building a log house on, straight logs may be got from the timber
cut down for clearing, or picked out up and down and drawn to the
building site:- the best timber for that purpose is pine, spruce,
cedar, hemlock, or fir; and if these cannot be got the straightest
timber of any other kind convenient. The log-house should not be
longer than from twenty-four to thirty feet at most, nor its breadth
more than from twenty to twenty-four feet; neither should the walls be
raised more than ten or twelve feet; for if the dimensions
exceed these, as the logs decay they will be apt to give out and
fall. In general houses of this description are not so large. Under the
house should be dug out a good cellar, where potatoes, and all
such other provisions as may require this precaution, could be
preserved during winter from the frost, and in summer from the
heat. It will be found easier to do this before the house is
built, and if laid up with small logs, they will prevent the
earth from falling in; the cellar should not be within three
feet of the breadth or length of the house, and aught to be five
or six feet deep, if the place can be conveniently sunk so
much. When a sufficient number of logs are provided, the usual
practice is for a few neighbours to assemble and assist the new
settler in laying up the walls of his house, each log being
mortised half way through at the angles for the cross one to
rest in; and by this means it becomes a firm building while the
timbers last, which they may be expected to do for about twenty
years. On laying up the logs over the parts intended for the doors and
windows, notches are made large enough to admit a saw, that when
the walls are up there may be no trouble in sawing them out to
the proper size. When the rafters and ribs are set up, they may
be covered with shingles of split pine or spruce, or with
boards, if to be had near; but if these cannot be provided, the
bark of elm, pine, or spruce, may be easily peeled off in June
or July, which makes a good covering for a few years, and is
again easily got and renewed. After the house is covered in, if
boards cannot be got, split basswood, fir, or pine, is used for
flooring, hewn smooth, and pinned to the sills or beams of the
floor. A house thus built, covered, and floored, may be got up
for about 10£. by contract, but will not cost half so much if the
economical plan here suggested be attended to; the owner will then
have to finish it off as may be convenient and suited to his
taste. The usual practice is to get small sashes and have
them fitted in, a door hung on, stones collected and a chimney
built in one end of the house, moss and splinters of wood
stuffed well between the chinks of the logs, and plastered
over with mortar made of clay and sand; and after all this has
been executed, the house may be divided to suit the occupiers'
comfort and wishes. In such a house a family may live comfortably,
cheered by the gratifying reflection that they are residing on
their own estate, which will become more valuable every year, and
for which they have not to pay rent, taxes, nor any other of those
charges, which have been to them, while in their native country,
a source of perpetual uneasiness: where they can taste the sweets
of freedom, independence, serenity, and repose. At the approach of
winter it will be necessary to bank up the house with earth, about
a foot high round the foundation on the outside, in order to secure
the cellar against frost, and make the dwelling as warm as possible.
In effecting these or other local improvements, information and
assistance may be always got from those previously settled, who are
ever found ready to contribute in every possible way towards promoting
the comforts of newcomer to the bush: a fellow feeling that
prevails, on such occasions, as well as a desire to see their
neighbours settled, causes all to interest themselves in the
welfare of the industrious new settler. A small pig or two may
be advantageously fed on the offal of the house, a yard being
enclosed for them, and the ensuing year they will be found to
contribute to the comforts of the family, after potatoes and
other agricultural produce shall have been raised. In parts
where beech and oak grow, hogs feed and fatten on the nuts and
acorns, without any other assistance; but care should be taken
that they trespass not on the neighbours' crops. A few fowls
will also be a convenience, and are easily kept; it will be
necessary, however, to defend them from hawks, foxes, and any
other enemies to which they may be liable to fail a prey.
CLEARING LAND.
In clearing land to advantage, there is need of much art and
dexterity, and notwithstanding any directions that may be
given, a settler desirous of learning, will gain more by
trying to derive practical information from observing those who
are well acquainted with that business, than by volumes written
on the theory. He is therefore advised to observe for himself;
or employ some person who has been brought up in such work, or
at least well acquainted with it; for, some will clear an acre
of land with one third of the labour that others have in doing so,
and labour saved in that way is as good as money saved. However,
for the information of the stranger, I will here add methods usually
persued in clearing, as he may not always find it easy to get such
labourers as are most profitable; and useful practical hints
may occasionally prove salutary.
A piece of dry land, or tolerably so, near the house is the
most, advisable to begin with. The most approved method of
clearing, especially if hardwood land, is to cut down the
brushwood, close to the ground, with a bush-hook or axe; in
order to preserve the edge, the blow should given up, but as
close to the ground as possible, that the stumps should not
afterwards obstruct the harrowing. This should be thrown in
heaps, that when dry it may burn off the better, on burning the
other timber. When the brushwood is cut and piled on the piece
intended to be cleared, chopping down the large timber may be
proceeded with according to the following plan:- Observe to
which side the tree inclines, if to any, and on that side or
near it chop in about two feet from the ground; chop sloping
dow, above, and straight in below, so as that the stump shall
be left quite flat. After having cut in more than half way,
minding to do it straight across, begin to cut on the opposite
side, about an inch or more higher than the former incision; and
work in as before, having one cut sloping down, and the other
horizontal; when the tree begins to crack or shake, it should be
watched at each blow of the axe, until you see it begin to fall;
and then step one side, sufficiently out of the way, as trees often
bound, and are dangerous in falling. Care should also be taken
that it fall not upon another tree, as the getting it down will be
attended with some trouble and danger: dead, dry, or broken
limbs should also be watched lest they should fall on the chopper.
Upright trees may be made fall in any particular direction that
may be desired, by chopping first and deepest into the side at
which it is required it should fall; a little experience and
observation, with presence of mind, caution, and prudence, will
only be necessary. When the tree is fallen the limbs should be
cut off into heaps, after which the body is to be cut up into
lengths of 10 or 12 feet; then take another and prosceed in the same
manner, which will cause them not to interfere with one another. Six
men accustomed to this work, will, if diligent, chop abunt an
acre in a day. In about a month or six weeks, or sooner if in summer
when the leaves are on, the timber thus cut will be fit to burn,
particularly if there be a few dry days previous to firing it;
it will be best to do so when there is a light wind blowing from
the buildings, and then the fire should be put in the windy side of
the field chopped down, and it will spread the better among the
fallen timber: it should be done about 10 or 12 o'clock in the day.
When the fierceness of the fire is past, the brands and small wood
may be thrown in heaps on the larger timber; and the heavy logs are
afterwards to be hauled together with oxen, or rolled with handspikes
into heaps, and burned off. As the piles are burned out, the ashes
may be saved for pot or pearl ash manufactories, being worth from
six to ten shillings per bushel for that purpose, if care be taken
to preserve it from wet. The land is then fit for planting or sowing
in, and, if at a proper season, the sooner the better after the fire
becomes entirely extinguished.
Others again clear their land by first chopping down the brushwood,
leaving it scattered as it falls; after which they cut down the large
trees, and cut off the limbs, leaving them also scattered as they fall,
but do not chop up the body of the tree. When sufficiently dry, it is
set on fire as before, and let burn off; after which, such logs as are
not burned are chopped up, rolled or drawn together in heaps, and
burned off as already mentioned. When time or labour is scarce
in spring, many defer burning off the heavy timber, and plant
potatoes, Indian corn, or some other crops among the logs, which
answers very well when time does not admit of the land being
wholly cleared off, as when the crop is off in the fall the
timber is easily chopped and burned. The settler can pursue
either plan, as both are followed with success. He will of
course perceive that what is meant by clearing off the land
does not include taking out the stumps of the trees; as they rot
out by degrees, and injure the land less by being left to dd so
than by digging them out, a process in the course of which the poor
clay is drawn up to the surface: they will soon rot, and can be
drawn out or burned off with ease when dry. The stumps are very
little in the way of farming to advantage, as the ground may be
ploughed and planted between them without any difficulty, especially
by a person accustomed to them; their chief evil is the unsightly
appearance they present to the eye of an European, who is used to
clear and level fields.
FENCING.
In clearing land, suitable timber may be selected for fencing,
and drawn or carried to the places where such enclosures are to
be made; but they should not be erected before the fire is past,
or it may burn them down again. Various methods of fencing are
resorted to, but if the place cleared be surrounded on all sides
by the woods, a row of trees felled one after the other, with
such additions as may be requisite, will be a sufficient
temporary fence. When clearings join the road or other
clearings, a more regular fence will be requisite, which is
generally constructed on new lands, with logs cut twelve or
fourteen feet long, and about a foot or more thick; they are
laid up thus:- The largest are laid next the ground, lapping
about a foot of each end, side by side: some put a cross block
under the lapped ends of the logs, to raise them from the ground:
on this row of logs is placed another, with cross blocks under
their ends, as under the first, and with notches in the blocks
for the end of the logs to lie in; and by again laying on this
another row of smaller logs as before, the fence is completed, three
rows high being generally sufficient, if the logs of which they
are composed be large. Some drive two stakes by each side of
every length of the Logs to cross at the top, on which they
place long heavy poles, to render the fence firm and strong.
Others again lay up what is called a zig-zag fence, which they
construct with poles, and find to answer very well; but the
former will stand fifteen or twenty years and is very firm. The
settler may, as soon as he has got his land cleared please
himself by a choice of the many sorts of fencing used in the
country; and as good and firm ones are so very necessary to
preserve the fruits of the farmer's labour, he will do well to
have his land sufficiently secured that way, in order to guard
against trespassers which would in a short time ruin the prospects
of a crop, if it were left at their mercy.
SOWING AND PLANTING NEW CLEARED LAND.
When the settler has a piece of land cleared, he should not
think of sowing wheat after the first of June, although it
is sometimat done in Lower Canada on new well burnt land, any
day during the first week of that month; the author himself had a
good crop of wheat which was not sowed till the eighth of
June; but this should not be depended on, and the earlier the
better. Oats, barley, Indian corn, beans, and rye, may be
sowed on new land, the first ten days of June to advantage, and
potatoes may be planted all the month; but, as observed before,
the earlier the crops are put down, if the land be fit, the less
danger will there be of their being injured by the early frosts
in autumn. Wheat, rye, and peas require to be earliest sowed,
and should be put in ground as soon as ever it is free from
frost in spring and fit in other respects, but the above time is
mentioned as the latest period for sowing them. In such parts of
new land as grain is to be sowed in, the piece designed for
that purpose should be harrowed among the stumps, in length and
across, with a harrow made like the letter A, and having nine
large teeth, two inches square, which should be drawn by the top
by a strong horse, or yoke of oxen; by this process the land is
pulverized, and considerably improved for receiving the seed.
When this is done one bushel of wheat, rye, or peas, will be
sufficient for an acre, and of barley or oats one and a half
bushel. After sowing the seed, harrow the ground, well as before,
and should any remain uncovered, round stumps, or in any other
place out of the reach of the harrow, it may be covered in
with a hand hoe; many poor settlers, when they cannot procure
harrows or oxen, hoe in all their grain, and raise good crops.
After it is harrowed in, it requires no further labour till the
crop is fit for cutting, unless to cut down weeds or sprouts when
they overtop it. With this cultivation wheat will produce from ten
to twenty five bushels or more per acre, but fifteen is considered
a fair return. Rye yields about the same produce, and will do best
in a light dry soil that may not answer for wheat; Oat, and Barley from
twenty to forty busbels per acre:-Peas from ten to twenty bushels;
-much of course depends on the care taken, the soil, season, and some
other accidental circumstances. Buckwheat may be sown about the last
of June, and will take about four gallons of seed to the acre; if
it succeeds well it will give a return of from thirty to fifty bushels.
After the smaller grain is sowed, Indian corn, potatoes, and other
vegetables, (unless those of the kitchen-garden, which may be put
down sooner,) depand the settler's attention. Indian corn should be
planted as soon as possible after the first of May, but may be put
later in new land than in old. After the ground has been harrowed, if
it be entirely cleared off, the planter having the seed in a
small bag tied round his, waist, commences the process of planting
by striking his hoe into the ground, raising the earth a little by
lowering the handle, and dropping in three, or four grains; then
withdrawing the hoe, he takes a step forward, treading down the earth
on the seed, and striking it in again about three feet from the former
incision, so proceeds; the corn being buried about two inches in the
earth, and intervals of about three feet being left between the rows
and hills, it will require no other attendance but weeding, until ripe.
In every third or fourth hill or row, two or three pumpkin seeds may
be thrown in with the corn, as they grow well with it, and when ripe
are found very valuable to feed cattle or hogs- the Americans also
make good palatable pies of them. About a gallon of Indian corn is
sufficient to plant an acre, and if soaked in warm water and copperas
water, it will sprout the quicker; the copperas will also have the
effect of preventing vermin or birds from destroying it when
coming up. Some plant corn in new land, by scooping out a little earth
with the hoe, and, after they have dropped in the seed, cover it over
in a small hill; the former plan answers as well, and is done with
much more expedition. It will produce in a warm summer, from twenty
to fifty bushels per acre, and makes good bread or pudding, and is
found a useful ingredient in several other luxuries. It is a common
thing to cut off the tops a few inches above the ear or cob when
it is full; which being dried and carried home, make such fodder for
cows, horses, and sheep, as they are very fond of, and is, if well saved
better than many sorts of hay. The corn is ripe when the grain
gets glazed in the ear, but must, when pulled, be kept from
lying too much in a heap, to prevent its growing mouldy. It is
usually gathered in September; the ears are broken off and
thrown in small heaps in the field; and as soon as convenient
the husks are pulled off, which may be done at night; after
which the clean ears are spread about six or eight
inches deep on a dry loft or floor to dry and season. Others
make a crib two or three feet wide, and as long as may be
necessary, in which they put the cleaned ears of corn, and cover
them in to protect them from the wet; the air passing through
hardens and dries the grain. When hard it may be shelled, and if
dry enough, ground up for use; unless it be very dry will become
mouldy when ground, if much be left together; therefore the
meal should be spread thin and loose in a box or bin made for
that purpose, else it will be soon unfit for use. Much then of
this should not be ground at once, unless extremely dry or kiln-dried.
Indian corn, besides being good for family use, is good for
fattening hogs, cattle, &c. and may, when ground, be mixed with
pumpkins or potatoes; the soft unripe ears are also picked out at
the time of harvest, and are excellent food for hogs, being
thrown to them without any further preparation:-in fact,
Indian corn, when it succeeds well, is one of the best
productions of a new farm. The pumpkins when the corn is being
gathered, may be carted home, as they do not keep well when,
exposed to frost and thaws, and are therefore given to the
cattle and hogs in the fall or early in winter. Hogs fatten well
on them when cut up, and boiled and mixed with a little potatoes
and meal; but they may be given raw to the larger cattle, which
are very fond of them:-a great quantity will grow on an acre with
the Indian corn.
Potatoes, the best root a farmer can raise, and which are easily
raised on a new farm, next demands the attention of the settler.
The quantity of seed required is about ten bushels to the
acre, the large round white potatoe being preferred. When the
land, after the burning off of the timber, is well harrowed
according to the plan already laid down, four or five cuts or
seed ends are laid on the surface of the ground, about six
inches asunder, in a square; the earth is then hoed up on them,
forming a hill nearly as large as the contents of a bushel
measure emptied out; this plan is proceeded with, till the piece
of ground intended for that purpose be covered with these
hills, which one with another will occupy each about a yard
square. Until fit to take up in September, they will require
to have no further labour expended on them, unless weeding,
which is seldom necessary. They are very easily taken out, and
may be deposited in small pits in the field, covered lightly
with earth, or put in the cellar of the house at once;
otherwise, if wanted to be kept till spring, they may be laid up
in large pits, in a dry situaUon, covered as usual with about
two or three feet of earth, and they will keep all the
winter-but should not be opened till the April following. They
yield from two hundred to four hundred bushels per acre, and
the earlier planted after the middle, of May, the drier and better.
Turnips may be sowed in June or July in new land, and require
little attendance unless to thin or weed them: they require to be
lightly harrowed, and sowed before rain, and they will then
grow fast. Beets, carrots, parsnip, mangel wurzel and Swedish
turnip, require to be sowed earlier, and will do well-:
all these must be sowed broad cast, in new land.
Melons, cucumbers, and other garden vegetables of this
description, grown in the open air, and are easily cultivated.
French or dwarf beans are planted in the same way as Indian
corn, but not more than one foot asunder, and are a very
profitable crop for a family: the white or mottled ones that do
not run to vines are the best to plant, and may be put down from
the middle of May to the middle of June.
In saving crops of grain, potatoes, and other vegetables,
the same customs as in Europe may be followed, unless in
the additional care to prevent roots from the frost. The whole
of the crops in Canada when saved, are laid up in the barn,
stable, roott house, or cellar. The Canadian farmers reap their
corn greener than is generally done in Europe, and spread it
thin in the field as cut: after it has been left lying for some
days in fair weather, they bind it in large bundles and carry it
to their houses, which answers well in this country. They also bind
up their hay in bundles of fifteen pounds each, and sell these by
the hundred, equal to two thirds of a ton. It will be wisdom in the
settler to follow any good plan he may observe in useful operation
among persons long settled in the country, and so far as be is able,
to improve upon them; but not to make too much of a venture, until
acquainted with the climate and the country.
Such lands as are sowed with wheat, rye, oats, or barley,
should be laid down the first year with Timothy, or fox tail grass seed
or clover, and they will have a coat of grass for the next year's use:
the usual complement of seed for an acre is about two gallons of grass
with two pounds of red clover; but if the land be low or wet, two pounds
of red top grass seed will be sufficient for an acre without clover.
The grass seed may be mixed with the grain about to be sowed, and all
harrowed together, but others sow it when the grain is over the ground,
before rain; the former method however is preferred. Grass is generally
cut the latter end of July and the beginning of August, and in a dry
season, (as it usually is) is easily saved, put up in the barn, and secured.
The settler should lay down in grass, each year, the part he
sows with grain, until he has his farm large enough; and endeavour
yearly to clear a sifficient extent for new crops; then in a few years,
what is first laid down in good heart will be fit to break up, and
most of the stumps will plough out.
In addition to what has been observed respecting seasons it may
be added, that in Upper Canada, and in the south West parts of
Lower Canada, the spring seasons are ten or fifteen days longer
than in the lower parts of this province, and the progress of
vegetation extremely rapid in all parts after the frost and snow
depart. Also for three hundred miles or more around Quebec, Montreal,
or Kingston, little difference is perceptible for or against the
farmer in the settled parts. The nearer the sea the deeper the snow
lies in winter, and the farther west the less snow or indeed frost;
but always enough to prevent vegetation, as when there is frost in
Quebec it generally extends to the utmost parts of Upper Canada,
though it may not be so severe. During the winter in the upper
province, and to the south, there are many thaws succeeded by
frosts: in Lower Canada the season is more regular and steady, but
uniformly healthy and generally agreeable; and labouring men can with
little inconvenience work in the open air all seasons in the year.
Having thus noticed the progress of clearing and cultivating
land on a new farm, it may be observed, that on old cleared
farms the same mode of farming as in the United Kingdoms may be
followed with success; subject only to such alterations as may be
necessary to suit the climate, secure the crops, and meet
some other contingencies: and also that fall or winter wheat and
rye may be raised well, though not usually done. As the hints
contained in these pages are not so much intended for the
guidance of the farmer in farming, as of the emigrant in settling,
further observations on this head are deemed unnecessary.
ON MAKING MAPLE SUGAR.
A branch of rural economy and comfort, peculiar to North America,
is necessary to be noticed for the information of the emigrant,
which is the manufacture of maple sugar. The settler should examine
his farm, and where he can get from 200 to 500 or more maple trees
together, and most convenient, that should be reserved for a sugary.
There being two kinds of maple, the hard and soft, the rock or hard
maple is the one to be preferred: both will make sugar, but this
will yield the sweetest sap and the brightest quality. If from among
the trees intended for this use the brushwood be cut down and removed,
the business can be carried on more conveniently. The process of
sugar making is as follows: As the sun gets power in the latter part
of March, and beginning of April, the sap begins to rise from the roots,
and the trees are fit for tapping: the sap continues, at intervals on
fair days, to run for about a month, until the sun gets too warm, and
the buds swell out on the tree.
A large gouge or hollow chissel should be provided, and a piece
of dry pine or cedar got and cut into lengths of about nine
inches each. These pieces should be split into bolts, about an
inch thick, the breadth of the gouge; and these bolts again
split up, with the gouge, about a quarter of an inch thick, by
which they will become hollow spouts, like the instrument with
which they are cut, for the sap to run in: they should then be
pared with a sharp knife at the end, to the shape of the edge or
point of the gouge, so that when it is driven half an inch or so
into the tree, the spout, also may be driven into the incision,
and fit it tightly. Troughs to receive the sap as it falls from
the spout, are made of pine, fir or ash, of a proper size, being
about fifteen inches through; such trees are cut up into lengths of
two feet, which pieces being split into two, each half piece
is hollowed out with an axe so as to contain about two gallons.
A man accustomed to the work will make forty or fifty troughs in
a day, and they may be bought for about ten shillings per hundred.
Each tree of ordinary size will require one, and very large trees
two troughs. Those who can afford to get buckets instead of them
will find it an advantage, as much sap is thereby saved: they cost
about ten pence each. A tree will run about a bucket-full per day,
on days succeeding frosty nights with a moderately warm run to
thaw the sap.
After all these have been prepared, one or two of the troughs being
placed under each tree, the person holding the spouts, gouge and
an axe, makes with the corner of the axe a small sloping notch about
an inch and a half long, and deep enough to penetrate into the wood
of the tree half an inch; the under side of the incision being cut
sloping down into the tree, so as that the sap may run to its lowest
point: if fit to tap, the sap is seen immediately, to ooze from the
cut. About an inch under that, the gouge is driven in for the
spout as before directed, through which the sap is conveyed
down till it drops into the bucket or trough at the foot of
the tree, the cut being made almost two feet from the ground:
one man can thus tap about two hundred trees or more in a day.
Others for tapping are provided with an inch auger, with which
instead of making an incision with the axe, they bore a hole an inch
deep, and put in the spout an inch lower down as already directed:
this though more tedious is the best plan for the tree. One tapping
generally answers for a season, and the trees, if not greatly hacked,
will do for a sugary many years.
The sap is collected with a yoke and handled buckets by a man every
evening, or as the troughs get nearly full; whence it is conveyed
to the boiling place which should be a dry spot, - the most central
and convenient to the sugary. At the boiling place there should be
receivers, such as puncheons or barrels, to hold the sap until boiled
down; but when those cannot be got, large logs are hollowed out
with an axe for that purpose. The process of boiling the sap into
sugar is simple, and easily acquired: two stout crotches are fixed
upright in the ground eight or ten feet asunder, and on them is placed
a cross stick from which the pots or kettles are hung; a crook to
hang them by being made of a hooked piece of wood. The fire is made
underneath of split or small wood between two larger logs rolled
on each side. The sap should be strained into the boilers, and
when boiling down, one boiler should be kept filled from the
other, and that again supplied from the receivers till the
liquid be boiled down to the consistency of sirrup. It is then
taken up and strained into a deep narrow vessel, there it is
left to settle for a day or two. When about being sugared
off, it is carefully poured from the sediment into a small
boiler, and again hung over & slow fire; a little milk, or a
couple of eggs beat up, being put in to clarify it: as it
boils, it is skimmed, and after boiling about an hour to a
proper consistence, which is ascertained by practice and
observation, it is poured into vessels to cool, and stirred
occasionally till cold. The Canadians boil it so much, that
when cold it forms hard solid cakes; to make use of which, it
becomes necessary to scrape it with a knife. It is better,
however, not to boil it so dry, but to pour it into a barrel
after boiling sufficently, and when cold, the sugar begins to
crust on the surface in a day or so; after which, by having a
few gimlet holes bored in the bottom of the barrel, the
molasses will run off, and leave after it a clean fair sugar,
similar to, and better than, the best muscovado, and more
delicate in flavor- if care be taken in boiling, settling,
straining and cleansing. To prevent the sap or sirrup from
boiling over, about an inch square of fat pork should be
thrown in once or twice a day, and it will be found to have
the desired effect. The scum, sediment, and last run of the
sap from the trees which is not good for suger, abould be boiled
together one half down, and being barrelled, will by allowing it
to ferment, make good vinegar: it may be well, to put, in a little
leaven or yest, though it will answer without it. Each tree will
average a produce of about two pounds of sugar in the season,
which extends to the end of April. Two men will be able to
attend from two hundred two five hundred trees, and by
attention will make good profit at a season, when they are not
wanted for other purposes; the sugar being worth from four
pence to seven pence halfpenny per pound. By a little examination
and experience, better than by any further direction, the settler
may in a few days obtain a perfect knowledge of the process; and if
for a short time the labour be found severe, the reward will be sweet.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON ASHES, SALTS,
TIMBER, &C.
Before bringing to a close the observations relative to the course
an agriculturist is to pursue on newly cleared land, a few other
remarks are added, which may be conducive to his advantage on settling
in the woods. The first is respecting the ashes that may be saved of
the heavy hardwood timber burned on the land; the sorts producing the
best for pot or pearl ashes are, elm, maple, basswood, large birch, and
brown ash; the same use can be made of all others that can be got,
but these mentioned produce most and best. In order to keep it uninjured,
as before observed, from wet or damp, when the timber is burned,
the ashes should be collected and placed in a bin or safe; this
may be simply made of small logs, floored with logs or boards,
and covered over head from the rain. They should not be put in
or near a house, lest if put in hot they might burn the building;
they have been known also to take fire if vegetable oil be poured on
cold ashes. In such a safe or bin, as has descrbed, they may be
preserveed until sold or otherwise disposed of; therefore care should
be taken to preserve all that can be collected, as they are worth
from six pence to one shilling per blishel, according to the price
of pot and pearl ashes; and if a fair price can be obtained for them in
this state, it is better for the settler to sell them than boil
them himself, as he is not accustomed to the process.
The older settlers manufacture their ashes, for sale to the country
merchants, into what is called the salts of lye, when there are no
purchasers convenient to buy them before taken through any such process.
To effect this, they provide themselves with two or more deep tubs
called leeches, which hold six or eight bushels of ashes, with a spigot
in the bottom; they are placed on a stand a foot or two from the ground,
with troughs underneath them to receive the lye when it runs off.
A few brick, stone, or a handful of brushwood, are put inside over
the spigot, on which is placed a little straw to prevent the ashes
running through or rendering muddy the lye: over this the dry ashes
are poured, nearly filling the leech, and gently pressed down; on which
is poured boiling water for the first run, that is, until with it the
ashes be perfectly soaked through: cold water may be then used until the
strength is all taken from the ashes, which is known when the lye running
off is weak like water. Two or more kettles, as in sugar making, are
hung over a fire to boil down the liquid that has run from the ashes,
one boiler being kept filled from the other, and that again filled from
the lye running off the ashes, until all gets boiled down to the
consistence of tar, which, when cold, it as hard or harder than pitch.
This substance is called salts of lye, and is the pot or pearl ashes in
a crude state; it is readily purchased by all Canadian country merchants,
who have pot or pearl ash works in which this is again manufactured
by another process not necessary here to be described. Salts of lye
can be sold in the country, if not for more, at least for one-half
the price that pot or pearl ashes will fetch in the ports or cities.
The ashes saved from an acre of good hardwood land will produce three
or four, and in some cases five cwt. of salts which sells this year
(1831) at seventeen shillings and six pence per cwt. A handy man
will boil 1 cwt. in a day, and almost sixteen bushels of good ashes
will produce so much. This resource is a great advantage to the new
settler, as it affords him some cash for clearing off his land, by
producing an article for sale, which is always in demand, from what
would be otherwise thrown away as being of no use to newly cleared
land. The boiling place should be made near soft water if it can
be conveniently got.
On land where much pine, spruce, or cedar is found, and not far
from streams of water on which, when cut, it can be floated, the
settler can sell to lumber merchants such timber, being worth
when standing from one shilling to two and six pence per tree,
according to size, distance from market, &c; but in case he
can sell them delivered on the bank of the stream, it may be his
advantage to do so, and thus earn the more from his own labour
and resources. I would by no means advise him to attempt
taking the timber to market himself, but leave that to those
who understand it and make that business their avocation; his
object should be to clear his land, make a farm, keep it in good
order when cleared, raise necessary provisions for himself and
as much as he can for sale, a succession of settlers always
causing a demand for the necessaries of life. When once he is
independent, comfort is the result, if not his own fault; nor need
he long be deprived of the injuries attending independence and freedom.
As settlers extend their farms, the demand on the spot for the
surplus of their produce naturally decreases in proportion as
provisions become more plentiful: the farmer then by degrees may
raise and fatten hogs, beef, sheep, and horses; which will carry
themselves to market, though at a great distance, and in the different
large towns and cities, or near the fisheries or ports, meet a
ready sale. Thus, in the beginning of his settlement the emigrant
can save his ashes and valuable timber for sale; as these decrease in
the course of cultivation, the produce of the farm will more
than compensate for the want: and in this manner much may be
gained from the wilderness while he is extending his farm for
the good of the country, himself, and his family; with a sure
prospect of ultimate success.
CONCLUSION.
To attain this desired result with satisfaction, industry, sobriety,
and perseverance, only are necessary. The country affords the
materials, which only require to be acted upon; protected as it is
by a powerful state, in the enjoyment of civil and religious liberty;
and where the law affects no man for his opinions and actions, unless
so far as his conduct may be personally injurious to public or private
interests. As this is the case in the Canadas, it would conduce much
to preserve the blessing of public tranquility, if every emigrant and
settler coming to this country would lay aside all political
animosities and other intolerant feelings, and to live and let live
in mutual forbearance and christian charity; having a portion
of that kindly feeling for our fellow men, that the Most High has
for all. With such sentiments and a watchful care to preserve the
public rights, supporting the government in all its constitutional
privileges; and discountenancing every effort made to the contrary,
they settler may live and enjoy himself in comfort and happiness;
the birth right of every peaceable and upright British subject.
In the foregoing pages much pains have been taken that nothing
be withheld in point of information, whether topographical, commercial,
or agricultural, on which the emigrant may depend to guard him
against uncertainty, imposition, wild or hazardous speculations;
and to which, as to a directory claiming no other merit than accuracy,
faithfulness, and impartiality, he may with safety and without fear
of disappointment be referred for instruction in every step, which
he shall find it necessary to take, from the time of his first landing
on the shores of British America until being himself a settled and
experienced agriculturist he shall find it no longer necessary
to seek instruction from the experience of any other individual.
It has been the author's aim, while he gave, without any exaggeration,
a fair view of the inducements which this country presents to the
honest, the enterprising, and the industrious man, at the same time
to put him in possession of the difficulties he must at first have
to struggle with, and the inconveniences to submit to, in order that
he should not flatter himself with such hopes as may afterwards
cause him to exclaim, like the Irishman in the play, in the agonizing
effusion of a disappointed spirit, that, "though he had left his
native land in expectation of shoveling up the dollars out of
the street, he had not yet fingered the ghost of one." It is then
only to such persons as can be content to endure a little labour
before they can regale themselves with its pleasant fruits, that the
instruction contained in the foregoing remarks can be of any value.
Each individual is better aquainted, than another can delineate to
him, with his own condition and circumstances; and can therefore, by
comparing them with what has been here submitted to him, calculate
how far the favourable prospects, connected with emigration, can
compensate for the sorrow of a separation from many intimate friends,
and of a residence far removed from the scene of his early recollections.
Certainly if a man enjoy the blessings of a permanent competency for
himself and his family, combined with a freedom from any distressing
apprehensions as to what may probably befal them at some future
period, this ought to be a consideration sufficient to induce him not
to abandon his native home, as such a step in order to better a
condition already well enough, my be an act of wantonness well worthy
of being punished with woful disappointment: but how many are there who,
though in the enjoyment of a competency for the present, and able
to supply their families with all necessary comforts while kept together,
and under their own protection, yet have no fair prospect of being able
to provide for them individually; and must consequently find their
tranquillity and happiness often interrupted by forebodings so
excruciating to the tender feelings of a loving parent, that they all
may in a few days, if deprived of his care, be sent forth to be tossed
on the troubled waves of poverty and affliction. Such apprehensions
and uneasiness can indeed be alleviated by a belief in the superintendence
of His providence who ordereth all things according to the council of
His own will, and by whom the very hairs of our heads are all
numbered, but when He gives us an easy access to the means of
relief we are bound to accept them with a grateful hand, and
then leave the things of futurity to be disposed of according
to the wisdom and beneficence so cheeringly exhibited in all
his dispensations.
Again, how many are there who, after having not only expended
their money, and often defrauded the jaded body of a portion
of its necessary repose, while trying to realize an income
on some unproductive piece of land, but have also plentifully watered
the same with many a weighty drop of sweat, must nevertheless,
if they survive the expiration of the term, be content to get a
preference, from some relentless landlord at the highest penny
that can be extracted from it when worked up to the meridian of
its fertility; and it is unnecessary to remind the improving and
indefatigable tenant on an Irish farm how often he is denied even
that preference though the lowest favor that can be sought, but is
left, to receive from experience a lesson on the instability of
human friendship, and, while soliloquizing on the bitterness of his
disappointment, to appropriate to himself the reflection of the bard,
"How bright soe'er the prospect seems
All thoughts of friendship are but dreams."
It is to those who, from their own experience, can testify the
reality of the pictures now portrayed, that the invitation is
especially given to come to Canada: to a country in which they
certainly cannot expect to eat the bread of idleness, but where
they may expect what is more worthy to be: denominated happiness
-the comfortable fruits of industry, and a total emancipation from
those painful apprehensions and reflections with which, while at
present struggling against the current of affliction, they are enervated
for the task, and their minds kept in a perpetual ferment. It may
also in conclusion be observed, for the information of as many as
may feel disposed to aspire to respectability, that in this country,
while such distinctions of rank are regarded as are deemed necessary
for the maintenance of the order and happiness of society, the source
however of true respectability is looked for in the aspirant himself,
and not attempted to be traced through the cumbersome ramifications
to the sapless stock of the Genealogical Tree.
APPENDIX.
It has been justly observed that what are generally called men
of fortune ought not to go to Canada, except they have determined
to fix their residence either at Quebec or Montreal. In these cities
not only all the necessaries, but most of the luxuries of life can
be procured with ease and at moderate prices; they can enjoy the
elegancies of life, refined and literary society, &c., but of course
in a more limited degree than in European cities. Beyond these places
persons must not attempt to stir, unless they can determine to
become men of the world, and cheerfully submit to take things as
they find them. And we have no doubt that there are many high and
noble minded men (and those rich men too,) who could live in many
parts of Canada, and enjoy more real happiness in witnessing and
promoting the development of a new world than in all the parade and
ceremony connected with what is called fashionable life. Canada is,
truly speakiug, the poor mans country; he can live comfortably, and
procure good wages, and the man of small fortune can make money,
acquire property, and provide for his family with comparative ease.
Emigrants should not on any account burthen themselves with heavy or
troublesome articles when proceeding to Canada; however they will do
well not to omit a tolerable supply of strong warm clothing, bedding,
shirts, and house linen, cooking utensils, a clock or time piece,
hosiery, boots and shoes fit for winter weather, a few good books;
also such articles of ironmongery as may be necessary, such as the
iron parts of farming and gardening implements, a few of the ordinary
tools used by carpenters, &c., to these may be added a rifle or fowling
piece, which the emigrant will find both useful and amusing in winter,
and fishing tackle for summer sport, if his fancy leads him to such
amusement; a few simple medicines, such as epsom salts, calcined magnesia,
castor oil, cream of tartar, ipecacuanha (commnonly called hippo), and
tartarised antimony (called tartar emetic), will be found extremely
useful when the emigrant has got settled.
In the selection of a vessel a fast sailer should have the preference,
particularly in the spring; a fortnight or three weeks earlier arrival
at Quebec will be of material importance to the emigrant, since he may,
by such timely exertion, put in the ground a small crop; and thus in
part provide subsistence for the first year; which he should otherwise
be obliged to purchase. Small quantities of seeds, such as lucern,
trefoil, turnip, and the ordinary garden seeds, and a few select samples
of potato, oats, China or skinless oats, and the large black oat of
the south of Ireland for seed will be a valuable appendage.
We would here observe that working artizans, particlarly blacksmiths,
carpenters, bricklayers, plasterers, masons, coopers, millwrights and
wheelwrights cannot fail, if they are industrious, succeeding in any
part of the Canadas, and by one season's work saving sufficient to
purchase lands in a settled township.
On the 9th of February, 1832, his Majesty's Commissioners for Emigration
published a small paper respecting the British Colonies in North America,
the object of which was to afford information to persons desiring to
emigrate, or to assist others emigrating to British America, and in the
first place to define the nature of the assistance to be expected from
Government. No pecuniary aid will be allowed to emigrants, or
after their arrival will they receive grants of lands, gifts of
tools, or a supply of provisions. Land is now disposed of only
by sale at moderate rates, but generally it will not be sold for
less than from 4s. to 5s. per acre; and in situations where roads
have been made, or where the ground has been partially cleared, the
common prices lately have been 7s. 6d., 10s., and 15s. per acre.
Agents will be maintained at the principal colonial ports, whose
duty it will be, without fee or reward, from private individuals
to protect emigrants against imposition, acquaint them with the
demand for labour in different districts, point out the most
advantageous routes, and furnish them with all useful advice upon
the objects they have had in view in emigrating. And when a private
engagement cannot be immediately obtained, employment will be afforded
on some of the public works in progress in the colonies. Persons newly
arrived are strongly urged to consult the government Agent for
Emigrants. The following Agents for immigration have been appointed:-
Quebec, A. C. Buchanan, Esq.; St. John's, A. Wedderburn, Esq,; St. Andrews,
C. N. Smith, Esq.; Miramichi, J. Canard, Esq.; York, (name not yet reported).
No effort will be spared to exempt emigrants froth any necessity for
delay at the place of disembarkation, and from uncertainty as to the
opportunities of at once turning their labour to account. The
ordiniry charges for passage to Quebec is then given, but on this
subject the emigrant will be enabled to judge for himself, as the
price varies at the different ports; but emigrants should not lay in
an insufficient stock of provisions; fifty days is the shortest
period for which it is safe to provide.
The best months for leaving England, (and we may add Ireland)
are certainly March and April. The paper then proceeds to
caution emigrants against frauds and tricks practised by Ship
Agents, who receive passage money, and then detain the emigrant
at expense before the departure of the vessel. However this can
be guarded against by dealing with respectable Agents, or by
having the day upon which the vessel is to sail fixed at the time
of agreeing for the passage, and in case any delay should arise, that
then the emigrant should be received on board and victualled by
the owners. Conveyance of passengers is regulated by the Act of
9 Geo. IV. c. 21. Ships for conveyance of passengers to these
colonies must be five feet and a half between decks, and they
must not carry more than three passengers for every four tons
of the registered burthen; there must be on board at least 50
gallons of pure water, and 50 lbs. of bread, biscuit, oatmeal, or
breadstuff, for each passenger; when the vessel carries the
full number of passengers allowed by law, no part of the cargo
or stores may be carried between decks. Masters of vessels who
land passengers, unless with their own consent, at a place
different from that originally agreed upon, are subject to a
penalty of £20, recoverable by summary process before two
Justices of the Peace in any of the North American Colonies. The
enforcement of this law rests with the Officers of Customs,
and persons having complaints to make of its infraction
should apply at the nearest Custom-house.
Beside the expenses of sea voyage to Canada, persons should be
provided with the means of proceeding on the journey which they
may have to make after their arrival at Quebec, the cost of which
must depend on the distance or situation of the place where they
wish to settle. The following report of prices of conveyance during
last season from Quebec to York, the capital of Upper Canada, may be
useful. From Quebec to Montreal (180 miles) by steamboat, the charge
was 6s. 6d.; Montreal to Prescott (120 miles) by boats or barges, 7s.;
from Prescott to York (250 miles) by steam-boat, 7s. The journey
occupies from ten to twelve days: adding therefore 11s. for provisions,
the total cost from Quebec to York (a distance of 550 miles) may be
stated, according to the charges of last year, at £1 11s. 6d. Persons
who have sufficient money and prefer traveling by land, that part
of the route where the St. Lawrence is not navigable for steamboats,
can accomplish the journey in six days for about £6. It must be
observed that the prices of conveyance are not always stationary, but
the Government Agents will at all times be enabled to supply the
emigrant with more exact particulars.
Mr. Pickering, in his Publication on Emigration, recommends those who
intend to marry to bring out wives with them if they can get good ones.
Women are wanted, there being males than females, and with other reasons
for this advice, he states that a man will find a woman of his own country
more congenial to his habits and taste as a wife than any other. He
also states, that Canada is not a bad country for single females to
come to, as house servants, as they can get from 20s. to 30s. a month,
if industrious, &c.
Canada presents a wide field to men of capital, and money can be employed
to advantage by investments in almost every description of property,
if done with judgment, in purchasing land particularly near towns and
villages that must increase, in building houses, mills, &c., in establishing
breweries, distilleries, furnaces, forges, and manufactories, &c.
Before proceeding to describe in detail the several districts of
Upper Canada, we shall notice more particularly the counties of
Two Mountains and Ottawa, situate on the north side of the St. Lawrence.
The county of Two Mountains contains six townships, viz. Arundell,
Chatham, Grenville, Harrington, Howard, and Wentworth. The land in
the township of Chatham is rather uneven in its surface, part being
mountainous, but contains excellent pasturage, and the land is calculated
to produce hemp, and flax, and the best sorts of grain; some excellent
timber is to be found, and which can be readily floated down the North
River, passing through this township to the Ottawa. It is also watered
by West River (which is navigable for some distance) several small lakes
and numerous streams. The public road from Montreal to the upper townships
passes along the front near the Ottawa, and two other roads lead towards
the rere. This township is inhabited by English, Scotch, and Irish,
Americans, and a few Canadians; the population may now be estimated at
about 1,500; it contains one village called Davisville, having saw-mills,
country stores, taverns, school, &c. Adjoining this township, and in
the rere of the Seigniory of Argentuil, is a small tract called Chatham
Gore, interspersed with several beautiful lakes, which make the country
picturesque and romantic; they abound with fish, particularly lake
Bouchette, whose waters are remarkably clear, and afford plenty of
fine salmon trout. The land is fit for agriculture. The population is
now about 500, nearly all Irish, and of the Church of England. There is
one church, a well-attended school, pot and pearl ash works, tanneries, &c.
Grenville on the Ottawa, with its augmentation to the west of
the former township, is bounded in the rere by the projected
township of Harrington, and to the west by La Petite Nation. It
is remarkable for the canal formed at considerable expense along
the river to avoid the dangerous rapids on the Long Sault, the
Carillon rapids, and another which in front of this township
interrupt the navigation of this river. The soil varies, part
being very poor and part extremely rich and fertile. An
extensive valley runs through the east part of the augmentation,
along the Beaver Meadow Creek, and Rouge River, from which
several other valleys diverge, and present excellent
situation for settlers. This township is also watered by the Kingham
and Calumet rivers, and several small lakes abounding with
fish. There are tolerable good roads in various directions.
There is a military station on the canal, and a village; the
population now amounts to upwards of 2000, and they have the
usual schools, mills, pot ash works, a pottery, &c.
Wentworth is partly in the rere of the townships of Chatham and
Grenville, and very mountainous. It is not well suited for
arable purposes, but it produces excellent timber for ship
building, which is conveyed by North River to the Ottawa. Harrington,
Howard, and Arundell are only projected and not yet surveyed.
The county of Ottawa is the most distant in the lower province,
and is situate on the river of that name, which divides it from
Upper Canada, a communication has been formed between them, by a
line of bridges, thrown across the rapids between Hull and By Town,
several townships have been projected, and some of them surveyed.
Buckingham adjoining the seigniory of La Petite Nation, is watered
by the river Au Li�vre and its head streams; the first range next the
Ottawa in this and the other townships on its banks, is oveflowed in
the spring and fall, by that great stream, whose waters rise at
those seasons, and like the Nile enriches the soil, and when the
waters recede produce the most luxuriant pusturage. Few buildings
can be erected on its banks. A part of this township has been
granted by letters patent to the late Captain Robinson and with
the Crown reserves being unsettled, retard its general
improvement; however, a Mr. Beglow, a large proprietor, has
cleared upwards of 400 acres, and erected a saw-mill, &c. There
are several eligible situations for towns in this township,
some saw, and corn-mills erected, a pottery, potash works, taverns, &c.
Templeton, next the above, is bounded in the rere by the township
of Portland, near the Ottawa, the land is low, but very fertile;
at some distance from the river, the land rises into gentle swells,
and is of exceeding good quality. The principal settlements are toward
the south-west, along the road opened by the commissioners, in front
of the township. The population is increasing. There are some pot and
pearl ash works, &c, and the entire is well watered by several streams,
and narrow ponds or lakes.
Portland, adjoining the former, is watered by the river Blanche.
As yet few settlements have been made in it.
Hull, on the Ottawa, and above Templeton, as has been already
noticed, owes its present prosperity to Mr.. Wright, who in
1806, obtained a grant of 12,000 acres, of which nearly 6000 are
now improved; he and his family, as a reward for his great industry
and management, have been granted 5000 acres in the township of
Templeton, and nearly as much in Lochabar. This township is in a
state of high cultivation, and the whole is well watered by the
river Gatineau, several lakes, some of which are entirely beautiful,
and various small streams. Several roads have been opened by Mr. Wright,
towards the interior, from the town of Hull, which is about 124 miles
from Montreal; there is also the village of Wright on the south-east
angle of this township, which contains a handsome church, with a
steeple 120 feet high, a comfortable hotel, and several other
edifices, such as schools, tanneries, &c. The population of
this township is rapidly increasing.
Eardly is the next township on this river, or rather what is
there called lake Chaudiere, it is indented by two large bays of
the lake into which small rivers flow, is thinly settled, and as
yet the roads have not been completed. The land is good, and it
is probable, will very shortly become well settled.
Onalow and Bristol are thinly settled, and very little is known
respecting them. The soil or surface do not appear to present
many inducements to settlers.
Clarendon is the last township up the Ottawa that is partly
settled. Little is known respecting it, except that it is well
watered, and has got corn and saw mills, &c.
It may not be improper here to notice the interesting river
Gatineau, which flows from some lakes far in the interior,
traverses Hull, and falls into the Ottawa, in the western front
of the township of Templeton. This wide, and in the upper parts
rapid river, is navigable for steamboats, nearly 5 miles from
its mouth, then becomes rapid for about 15 miles, turning several
mills, and thence is navigable for canoes, &c. it is said for 300
miles, passing through an interesting vale full of natural riches,
and abounding in views of the wildest and most romantic scenery,
and it is probable that at no very distant day, this district will
be explored, and settlements established on the banks of this river
beyond the rapids or falls, some of which are stated to be 100 feet
in height.
The upper northern banks of the Ottawa, belonging to this province
not yet surveyed, are reported to contain some very superior land,
well wooded, the importance of which may be inferred from the
fact that the greater proportion of those enormous rafts of fine
timber, which make so considerable a branch of Canadian commerce with
the mother country, are brought from thence, being floated down the river.
UPPER CANADA.
It has been mentioned in the former part of this work that this
province, being a younger colony, is less settled than Lower Canada,
and consequently it is more difficult to procure accurate information
respecting its present state, but the rapid increase of population,
and intercourse with the interior occasioned thereby, will speedily
remove those impediments and in a few years, the entire of this highly
interesting portion of the British colonies, will be fully explored,
and, we hesitate not to say, that it will not disappoint the most
sanguine expectations entertained of it.
However, we are not left altogether uninformed on the subject, and, in
addition to what has been previously stated, we have selected the
following remarks from the recent work on the Canadas, published by
Mr. Picken, which we have read with much pleasure and satisfaction,
and can with confidence recommend it to such as may require a detailed
and extended publication on the Canadas.
Upper Canada possesses a rich soil and fine climate, and for
the last three years, emigrants of the poorer classes have
directed their attention to it, this has been caused in a great
measure, by the higher rate of wages to be had there, and the
greater certainty of obtaining employment.
On examining a map of the Canadas, the great extent of water
frontier enjoyed by the upper province cannot be overlooked,
exclusive of the numerous rivers and lakes to be found in the
interior, the country being in general level possessing very
little of what is usually called mountain, (none of the
elevated parts deserving that name). These natural canals and
lakes, not improperly called inland seas, afford considerable
facilities to the rapid improvement of the country.
The general monotony of the face of the country is diversified
by a few ridges of elevated or table land, the first of which
commences about the boundary between this and the lower province,
and running westerly between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, in the
line of Osnabruck, Williamsburg, and Matilda, in which last
mentioned township the river Petite Nation takes its source,
only 5 miles from the St. Lawrence, and thence after, crossing
the townships of Bustard and Crosby, it is lost at no great
distance inland. Several other low ridges traverse the country,
generally in a westerly direction, as if they were a continuation
of the above, and out of which spring numerous streams. On the
northern borders of the Balsam lake, the chief of these
ridges assumes a higher elevation than usual, from whence they
stretch towards Lake Simcoe.
There is another ridge of elevated land, which commences at the
bay of Quinte, near lake Ontario, and extending westerly along
its shores, and approaching it in the township of Hamilton, at a
distance of not more than nine miles, thence taking a northerly
course, passes the rere of York, at a distance of 24 miles, from
whence bending to the south-east round the head of the lake, it
joins the Burlington and Queenstown heights, and then running
easterly along the south shore of the lake, it enters the United States
at the falls of Niagara.
It has been remarked that the great majority of the rivers which
spring from the south side of these ridges, and flow into the
St. Lawrence or Lake Ontario, are short and small, whilst those
that flow towards the north, until they join the Ottawa, are of
much greater extent, but the descent of the rivers on both
sides of the ridges or range of hills being about four feet to a
mile, some difficulty arose, considering the distance on the
south side being much shorter than on the north, but the
engineer employed on the Rideau Canal, ascertained and
established that the level of Lake Ontario is nearly 130 feet
higher than that of the Ottawa, and therefore the gradual
descent of the rivers on both sides of the ridges or table
land, calculating their respective lengths, is easily accounted for.
Kingston is the largest and most populous town in Upper Canada,
and is called the key to the province. It is situated at the head
of the St. Lawrence on Lake Ontario, and contains a population of
6000 souls. It contains noble dock-yards, and conveniences for
shipbuilding, and is a military post of importance, as well as a naval
depot; a vessel of 120 guns can, according to Howison, lie
close to the Quay; the wharfs on the river, and spacious well
fitted warehouses behind them, as well as in the town, indicate
the mercantile importance it has now attained. The streets are
regularly formed at right angles, which is the favourite plan in
the new settlements. The houses are mostly built of limestone,
which is to be had in abundance in the immediate vicinity of
that town. Kingston must derive immense importance from its
central situation, being the great thoroughfare between the
upper and lower provinces, as well as to and from the States on
the opposite side of the river.
Between the lower province and this town, as has been
partly observed in the account of roads and distances, are the
several towns of Cornwall, Johnstown, Prescott, Elizabethtown,
and Brockville, besides a continuance of small villages on the
same line along the St. Lawrence. Cornwall and Johnstown stand
close to the river, and contain about 100 houses, built of wood,
with a church, court house, schools, &c. Prescott, now called
Fort Wellington, is the chief stage between Kingston and Montreal,
from which latter, as has been mentioned, it is distant 135 miles,
and between which coaches nun every day except Sunday; from its
position at the head of the Montreal boat navigation, and at
the foot of the sloop and steam navigation from the lakes, it
must rapidly increase in extent and importance.
The town of Perth, situate in the district of Bathurst and
township of Drummond, on a small branch of the Rideau called
the Tay River, being nearly central between the St. Lawrence and
Ottawa, was founded in 1815, by British emigrants, chiefly from
Scotland, many of whom are now in comfortable circumstances. The
streets are sixty six feet wide, and on a hill near the centre of
the town a jail and two churches have been erected. The population
is now considerable, and many of the houses are furnished with
considerable taste and judgment. The relative situation of this
place near the Rideau canal, in the midst of a fertile country,
gives good promise of its future prosperity and importance.
Bytown, situated on the southern beak of the Ottawa below the
Chaudiere falls, and opposite Hull in Lower Canada, stands
upon a bold eminence surrounding a bay of that river, and on both
banks of the Rideau canal which here meets it. The streets are
wide, and laid out at right angles; the number of buildings are
rapidly increasing; the greater number are of wood, and executed
with much taste. The excellent residence of Colonel By, a large and
commodious hospital, with three barracks, all of stone, are
delightfully situated on the elevated banks of the bay,
commanding a prospect over the river, its falls and rapids, that
can be scarcely equalled in the Canadas.
EASTERN SECTION.
The first or eastern section of this province, in which the
before-mentioned towns are situate, consists of that tract of
land lying between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, bounded on the
east by the county of Vaudreuil, in the lower province, and on the
west by the Newcastle district. It is divided into five
districts, viz. the Eastern, the Ottawa, the Johnstown, the
Bathurst, and the Midland.
The entire of this section is of moderate elevation, with
gradual depressions towards the different rivers with which it
is bounded and intersected; the soil in general is rich and fertile,
with a mixture of soft and marshy spots. The timber in the forests
is large and lofty, and of the different descriptions herein before
mentioned. On the banks of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, the land
is thickly settled, particularly from Point au Baudet to, the head
of the bay of Quinte.
The Eastern District, commencing at the boundary line of the province
on the east, has the St. Lawrence on the south, the district of
Johnstown on the west, and the Ottawa district on the north. It is
divided into twelve townships, in two ranges, viz. Lancaster,
Charlotteburgh, Cornwall, Osnabruck, Williamsburgh, and Matilda,
on the banks of the St. Lawrence; and Lochiel, Kenyon, Roxburgh,
Finch, Winchester, and Mountain, in the rere of the former. The
township of Lancaster is well settled, and the land generally
good. The rivers Bodatte and Delisle, with several other smaller
streams run through it. The principal road from the lower and
through the upper province called Dundas street, passes through
this township. Lochiel is also well settled, and the land of
like quality as the former township; the River La Grass, and
several small streams which flow into it, waters this townships
and the river Delisle crosses the south west corner; the road
from Cornwall to the Ottawa, and several others, pass
through this township; grist and saw mills have been erected on the
rivers. Roxburgh is partially settled, some of it having been
granted to New England Loyalists, and a considerable portion
being Clergy reserves; it is rather swampy, the north branch of
the river Aux Raisins, and a branch of the river Petite Nation
called the Pean, rises in this township. The road from Cornwall
to the settlement on the Petite Nation passes by the
east side of the ninth concession. Finch is thinly settled,
and contains some excellent land; a considerable portion of it
was granted to the families of New England Loyalists, which
has fallen into the hands of speculators, and has operated
against the settlement of this township. The river Petite Nation
runs through it crossways and the Pean river lengthways. Little
has been done to roads; which is an inconvenience to settlets.
Mr. Crysler has become possessed of large quantities of land,
and has erected saw and grist mills. Winchester is generally good
land, but parts swampy, population thin, and in great want of
roads. The Petite Nation runs through it, and in winter answers
the purpose of a road, as well as a navigation in summer. Mountain
has fine thriving settlement along the Petite Nation, with some good
roads; the land is very good, and some large tracts have been granted to
individuals. Several mills have been erected in this township,
and when the contemplated improvement in the navigation of
the Petite Nation by the communication with St. Lawrence shall be
completed, the value of land must be greatly increased.
Williamsburgh is well settled by Loyalists who served during
the first American war with the States; the land in this
township is generally good; mills have been erected on streams
which flow into the Petite Nation.
The Ottawa District is exactly in the rere of the former,
bounded on the north by the Ottawa, on the west by Johnstown and
Bathurst districts, and on the east by the boundary of the lower
province: it is divided into eleven townships, viz. Hawkesbury East,
Hawkesbury West, Alfred, Plantagenet, Clarence, Cumberland, Gloucester,
(all on the Ottawa,) Caledonia, Cambridge, Russel,
and Osgoode, in the interior and adjoining the eastern district.
The land is generally good in East and West Hawkesbury. The Grenville
canal passes on the banks of the Ottawa, opposite Hawkesbury, by which
the rapids on that river called the Long Sault rapids, are surmounted.
The western division at present appears to possess superior advantages,
having good roads in various directions, and several mills,
distilleries, stores, shops, &c.; the lumber men have cut down a
great deal of the valuable timber. The river Lagrass runs
through the western division, and some other small streams
which fall into the Ottawa. The local situation of these
townships is very favourable, the population rapidly increasing,
and appear endeavouring to excel in industry. Caledonia is only
partially settled, the land being very swampy, however there are
some good lots to be had, and the Canadians are partial to some
descriptions of swamps, which they drain, and afterwards cultivate;
roads have been completed which will considerably advance
the interests of the present settlers as they do not enjoy the
advantage of any large river. In the township of Alfred the
lands are swampy, but suited to the Canadian mode of clearing;
the Chester road crosses this township; there are some streams,
the principal of which are Horn Creek, which flows into the
Petite Nation, and Dezemacane, which enters the Ottawa to the
north east. Plantagenet is well settled, and the land of
various qualities, part being light and sandy, part very good,
and some swampy. There are several roads in the township; its
situation is very favourable and well watered by the Petite
Nation, Bear Brook, Horn Creek, and Scotch river. The lumbermen
have taken a considerable portion of the most valuable timber.
The township of Clarence is favourably situated, and possesses
some very good land, and the population is now increasing. Until
lately there were no roads in this township; but this advantage was in
some measure supplied by the passing of the steam boats on the Ottawa.
Bear Brook runs across it towards the rere, and on which there
are a number of mill-sites. Cumberland is very like Clarence in
extent, situation, and soil, and the Bear Brook crosses it
also. This township must rapidly improve, possessing as it
does, (with Clarence) the advantage of the Ottawa navigation
in front, and the Bear Brook in the rere, upon which there are
several favourable situations for mills, factories, &c., and by
which at high water in spring, timber can be rafted down to the
Petite Nation. The township of Gloucester is bounded on one
side by the Ottawa, and on another by the Rideau river. Great
part of the land is good, with some swamps, suited to the taste
of the Canadians. This township is well settled near the Ottawa
and Rideau; Green's Creek, Bear Brook, Belling's Creek, and other
small streams water it in various directions, and on which
mills have been erected, roads are increasing, and from its
vicinity to Bytown & the Rideau canal, this must be a very
promising township. In Cambridge the soil is light and sandy,
some good land towards the south-east and south-west, and a few large
swamps; the Petite Nation and a branch of it called the Eastern
River, cross this township. The township of Russell is well
watered by the Eastern River and its several branches. The land
is not very good, a great part is swampy, with white sandy bottom;
however some favourable settlements have been formed in it.
Osgoode, fronting the Rideau, contains some excellent land, and
is well watered by the Castere river and several small streams
which fall into it. Several roads have been projected in this
township which when completed, will greatly facilitate its
settlement, and increase the value of land. In winter, when the
rivers are frozen they are used as roads by the settlers, and by
which they procure many necessary supplies.
JOHNSTOWN DISTRICT next above the Eastern, on the St. Lawrence,
is now divided into eighteen townships, viz. Edwardsburgh,
Augusta, Elizabeth, Yonge, Lansdown, and Leeds, on the St.
Lawrence; South Gower, Oxford, Wolford, Kitley, partly bounded
on the north by the Rideau canal and river, Bastard through
which the canal passes obliquely, and South Crosby, all lying in
the rere of the six first mentioned townships; North Gower,
Marlborough, Montague, Elmsley, Burgess, and North Crosby,
bounded on the north by the Bathurst district, and having on the
south the Rideau canal. The soil in these townships is
generally good, and they are most eligibly situated, being
intersected by the Rideau canal, now completed, and having in
front the St. Lawrence, besides being well watered by several
rivers and lakes. It is true that several swamps are to be met
with, but these have been, in many places, highly improved by
the Canadian farmers, and add much to the fertility of the district.
Lake Gananoqui crosses the township of Lansdowne and enters
Yonge and Leeds. There are a few small lakes in North and South
Crosby, also in Bastard, from whence, and from the Rideau lake,
in Burgess and Elmsley, (and into which the canal opens) flow
the principal head waters of the Rideau river, which passes by
several of the other townships, on its course to the Ottawa, the
popalation of these townships is now rapidly increasing,
and it would be difficult to procure an exact enumeration of
the inhabitants. This district contains several towns, viz.
Brockville and Elizabeth Town, in the township so named;
Prescott or Fort Wellington, the principal port between Kingston
and Montreal in Augusta, and Johnstown in Edwardsburgh;
although the Rideau canal was originally intended as a
communication in time of war with the upper province, its advantages
as a peace one are of the highest importance, and has opened a line
of settlement with several townships which now present a flourishing
appearance, but would otherwise remain unoccupied for many years.
BATHURST DISTRICT, on the Ottawa, is in the rere of Johnstown,
and bounded on the west by the Midland district, the Ottawa is
here called Lake Chaudiere, and a little higher up Lake Chat
from the expansion of the river. This district is divided Into
twenty townabipi, viz. Nepean, on the Ottawa Goulburn, Beckwith,
Drummond, Bathurst, South Sherbrooke, North Sherbrooke,
Dalhousie, Lanark, Ramsey, and Huntley, March and Torbottom, on
Lake Chaudiere, Fitzroy on Lake Chat, Pakenham, Darling, and
Lovant; MacNab, and Horton, also on Lake Chat, and also a
triangular township, through which flows the river Madawasca. The
Bathurat district is extremely narrow at its eastern extremity,
having only the township of Nepean, it however extends very considerably
towards the west, and in shape resembles a triangle. A considerable
portion of the land in this district, is very valuable, and will,
no doubt, be ere long thickly inhabited, but like other parts of the
Canadas, it is not free from swampy land. This is the most
northerly portion of the upper province at present surveyed, and
in which settlements have been formed. It is well watered by several
lakes and rivers, which flow through the townships to the river.
The largest lake is situate in Drummond, Beckwith and Ramsay, from
whence a considerable river rus through the greater part of Ramsey,
Pakenham, and Fitzroy, till it meets the Ottawa. Roads are not numerous
as yet, but the sale of crown lands in this district, as well as other
parts of the Canadas, will enable the government to complete various
roads by which access can be had to the the interior.
The Midland District is bounded, on the east by the Johnstown and
Bathurst districts, on the west by the Newcastle district, on the
northeast by the Ottawa, and on the south by Lake Ontario, from which
the St. Lawrence issues. This district is at least four times the
extent from north to south, that it is from east to west, and
lies right across Upper Canada, from Lake Ontario to the Ottawa.
This district is surveyed in part, and thirty-six townships have
been laid out, however, from the rapid progress made in the different
districts, it is probable that the entire Province will be in a short
time, subdivided into townships and lots for settlers, the several
townships fronting the St. Lawrence, bay of Quinte, and lake Ontario,
are of various extent and shape, occasioned by the bays, harbours, and
peninsulas formed by the waters of this inland sea. Pittsburgh,
Kingston, Earnest town, Fredericksburgh, Adolphustown, Richmond,
Marysburgh, Hallowell, Sophiasburgh, Hillier, and Ameliasburgh, are
the townships adjoining the waters of the Ontario, towards the east;
Loughborough, Portland, and Camden, Trendinaga, Thurlow, and
Sidney, being situate on the bay of Quinte; Bedfford, Hinchinbrook,
Sheffield, Hungerford, Huntingdon, and Rawdon, being the third range
of townships Oso, Olden, Kennebec, Kalladar, Elzevir, Madox, Marmora,
being the fourth range, Palmerston, Clarendon, Barrie, Anglesea,
Grimsthorpe, Tudor, and Lake, are the fifth range, and beyond which
no settlements have been yet effected. These townships do not occupy
half the district, the remainder being still unexplored, or at least
not subdivided.
All the townships adjoining the waters of Lake Ontario are most
advantageously situated, the soil generally good; however, there are
several swamps, and some rocky land. The Rideau canal passes
through Pittsburgh. The bay of Quinte is formed by the peninsula
called Prince Edward's Island, and which is divided into the townships
of Marysburgh, Hallowell, Sophiasburgh, Hillier, and Ameliasburgh, as
before mentioned. Mr. Ferguson, in his Tour in Canada, lately published,
states that the scenery in this bay was pleasing, and in many places
settlements formed on every hand, the soil partly clay, partly
loam and sand, sufficiently rich in some instances to yield fifteen
good crops of wheat in a period of twenty years. Granite, limestone,
and schistes or clayslate are successively met with, wherever a stream
or creek of any importance falls into the lake, there a mill site
and village are to be found, the embryo in many cases, of considerable
towns. Bath, Adolphustown, Hallowell, Sophiasburgh, and Belleville, are
all thriving villages, and many individuals are to be met with in each,
who, from humble situations, are rapidly acquiring independence.
Belleville is the county town of Hastings, and has already three
churches, a court-house, and projected jail, a valuable mill power,
and a fine situation for houses. The main road from Kingston to York
passes through it (as has been noticed in the account of roads and
distances) and it is not improbable that it will become a place of
considerable note. Steam boats call at the various ports and villages
on the lake, and by the time they reach Kingston, the deck is absolutely
heaped with flour-barrels and other produce. Steam navigation has done
more for Canada, within the last few years, than could have been
effected in a century, under the old system of inland water conveyance.
The river Trent passes through the townships of Huntingdon, Rawdon,
and Sidney, falling into the head of the bay of Quinte. The
Nappanee river waters the townships of Loughborough, Portland,
Camden, and Richmond, and also falls into the bay. Various
other rivers, besides many considerable lakes, water the several
townships, and will, a doubt, afford considerable facility to
settle in those remote from the lake. The labyrinth of the
thousand islands, at the entrance to lake Ontario, and through
which the steamers pass and repass from Prescott to Kingston,
affords some splendid scenery,-the river, in fine weather,
smooth as a mirror, reflects minutely every tree and rock. On
every hand, numerous channels present themselves, and wooded
islands of all sizes and forms, well stocked with water fowl.
CENTRAL SECTION.
This section of the upper province is divided into two large
districts, namely, the Newcastle, and Home, and embrace an
extensive tract of country, lying to the west of the Midland
district, and extending 120 miles along the front of Lake
Ontario, bounded on the north by the Ottawa, French River, and
Lake Huron, and on the west by the Gore and London districts.
This section contains several extensive lakes, and York, the
metropolitan town of this province, is situate in the Home district.
THE NEWCASTLE DISTRICT extends from Lake Ontario to the Ottawa,
and is nearly four times the extent from north to south that it
is from east to west. It is well watered by Rice, Balsam, Trout,
and other lakes in the interior, and also by the Otanabee part
of the Trent, and various other rivers. The colonization
experiments of 1823 and 1825, under the control of Mr. Robinson,
were made in this district. A very considerable portion of this
district has been surveyed or laid out in townships. The
following are the only ones yet named or settled, viz, Murray,
Cramahe, Haldimand, Hamilton, Hope, Clarke, and Darlington,
on Lake Ontario; Seymour, Percy, Alnwick, Asphodel, Otanabee,
Monaghan, Cavan, Manvers, and Cartwright, being the second range
from the Lake; Belmont, Dummer, Douro, Smith, Emily, Ops, and Mariposa,
on the third range; Methuen, Burleigh, Harvey, Verulam, Fenelon,
and Eldon, on the fourth range, making in the whole twenty-nine
townships. This district is thickly settled, and in a rapid state
of progression. The river Trent, on the east, is crossed by a ferry,
and the road from Kingston enters this district (crossing the townships
on the lake to the Home district) and upon which the improving towns
of Cobourg and Port Hope are situate. Cobourg is now a place of
considerable trade, through the spirit and enterprise of its merchants,
and contains several good houses and stores, an Episcopal Church,
Methodist Chapel, good hotels, several distilleries, mills, &c.
The exports and imports are very considerable. An excellent
road leads from this town through Hamilton to the Rice Lake. The soil
of Hamilton is a sandy loam, and well suited for Agricultural
purposes. Monaghan and Otanabee are on the north side of Rice Lake.
The soil in general is excellant, and the population rapidly increasing.
The Otonabee River divides these townships. On the north east angle
of Monaghan is situate the town of Peterborough. The country round
is fertile and well watered; a frame bridge has been erected over the
Otonabee at this place, and the whole neighborhood presents gratifying
evidence of steady and prosperous industry. Smith, Douro, and Emily,
are well settled; the soil in general good, and in great variety; there
is a sufficient supply of water for mills and other purposes. Dummer
resembles the last mentioned townships in soil, is well watered, and
possesses many advantages, which will be made use of by the settler.
Beaver meadows are frequent in these townships, and are very serviceable
to the inhabitants; saw and other mills have been erected in many
places; the line of water communication is so considerable in the
northern townships it is expected that the greater portion of their
prodmce will pass by Peterborough. Ops is one of the finest townships
in this district, and is well watered by the Scugog River, which
is navigable for boats, and by which settlers may proceed to Mud
Lake. There is a road from Port Hope to Emily, and Smith passing along
the boundary line between Hope and Hamilton, Cavan and Monaghan.
Cavan was first located in 1817, and there has been for some years
a lot undisposed of (except reserves). The soil is good, and
well watered. This township is highly improved, and the clearings
very extensive. The other townships in this district possess much
good land, and are in general well watered, upon which many mills
have been erected in convenient situations. Generally speaking
the soil in the inland townships is superior to those near Ontario.
Churches and various other places of worship have been erected in this
district, and numerous schools are established in the townships.
Petersborough was selected by Mr. Robinson in the year 1825, as
the depot or head quarters of the emigrants who were located at that
period under his direction.
The HOME DISTRICT lies to the west of Newcastle, and extends
from Lake Ontario on the south to the French River on the north.
The south-eastern limb of Lake Huron extends considerably into
this district, and with Lake Simcoe, nearly divide it. There
are several Dutch settlements in this district, in and near the
township of Markham. The soil near Lake Ontario is not so good as
in the interior, particularly near Lake Simcoe. York, the
seat of the Provincial Government of the Province is in this
district. It is well situated on north of an excellent harbour
on Lake Ontario, and contains the house of Assembly, Government House,
Provincial Bank, College, Court House, Hall for the Law Society,
Gaol, Barracks, Churches, and other places of worship, with several
other public buildings; the streets are spacious and regular;
many of the houses are built of brick and stone, but the
majority are of timber. The population is considerable and
rapidly increasing. Being the residence of the Chief Officers of
the Government, many of the luxuries of live are to be had. There
are several newspapers published here. The lands in the neigbourhood
are highly cultivated, and the market of the town is always well supplied.
In the rere of the town runs the road called Yonge street, which leads
to Gwilliamburg, a village 32 miles to the northward, and from thence
to Cook's Bay, 5 miles distant, from whence by Lake Simcoe there is a
communication with Lake Huron. The land in the neighbour-hood of this
road is very fertile and well cultivated; several other roads diverge
from York to various places. The townships on the Lakes are thickly
settled, with a few exceptions, where the soil is bad, and the entire
is well watered. The rivers abound with fish, particularly salmon.
A considerable portion of the district to the north of Lake Simcoe
has not been surveyed, but the southern part has been laid out, and
contains fifty three townships, as follows, viz. Whitby, Pickering,
Scarboro', York, and Toronto, on Lake Ontario; Reach, Uxbridge, Markham,
Vaughan, Gore of Toronto, Ettibocoke, and Chinguacousy, (in rere of the
former,) Brock, (whose north-east angle borders Lake Simcoe), Scott,
Whitchurch, King, Newmarket, Albion, and Caledon, being the third range
of townships from Lake Ontario; Georgina, bounded on the north by Lake
Simcoe; east, west and north, Gwilliamburg, surrounding a bay of
the same lake, Tecumseth, Adjala, Mono, Amaranth, and Luther,
Innisfil bounded on the east by Lake Simcoe, Essa, Tossorondio,
Mulmur, Melancthon, and Proton; Oro on the north west shore of
Lake Simcoe, and divided from Innisfil by a bay, Vespra, also
adjoining the bay; Sunnidale, bounded on the north by Lake Huron,
Merlin, Ospry, and Artenesia, Java, Alta, and Zero, bounded on the
north-east by a bay of Lake Huron, called Nottawasaga, and into which
the river of that name flows, Euphrasia; the narrow township of Thorah,
Mara, and Rama, lying between Lake Simcoe and the Newcastle district;
-Orillia, opposite Rama, on the other side of the lake; Maichudash on
the River Severn, which flows from lake Simcoe into lahe Huron, Medonte,
and Flos, whose west angle touches Nottawasaga bay; Tay and Tiny,
peninsular townships, extending into the Georgian bay of lake Huron;
the Nottawasaga river rises in the township of Amaranth, and takes its
course to the Huron lake, passing Mono, Adjala, Tecumseth, Essa, Vespra,
Flos, and Sunnidale; several tributary streams join this river from
other townships: this district is highly recommended by many persons,
as presenting to emigrants a large quantity of good land, numerous roads
kept in tolerable order, several water privileges and conveyances,
excellent markets, a fine climate, and thriving colony.
WESTERN SECTION.
This Section embraces all that tract of country, from the head of lake
Ontario; bounded by lake Erie on the south, lakes St Clair and Huron
on the west, the indian territory on the north, and the Home district
on the east: its extreme length, from north to south, exceeds 200 miles,
and is in breadth, from east to west, in its widest part, nearly as much.
Its surface is generally level, having few eminences-the principai of
which is that ridge which forms the Falls of Niagara, as has been
already mentioned. The soil is, without exception, better then
in any other part of the Canadas; the whole tract is alluvial in
its formation, and the surface is a deep and rich vegetable
mould, sometimes intermixed with a rich sandy loam, highly fertile
in its properties--extensive quarries of limestone are to be found
in various parts of this province; freestone is occasionally found
on the shores of the lakes. This section is divided into four districts
-namely, the Gore, Niagara, London and Western; the whole is well watered
by the following rivers, and their numerous branches, viz. the Thames,
Ouse, Welland or Chippewa, Big Bear, and Maitland.
The Gore District is bounded on the north and east by the Home
district; on the south, by lake Ontario, and the Niagara district;
and on the west, by the London district and Indian territory. A
considerable portion of this tract belongs to the Canada Company,
who have built nearly in its centre, the town of Guelph, upon the
river Speed, a branch of the Ouse. This rapidly rising town was
commenced by Mr. Galy, for the Canada Company, in 1827, and is now
of considerable extent and importance, containing several places of
worship, grist and saw mills, distileries, market-house, schools,
printing office, hotels, and taverns, &c.; many new houses are erected
every year, and the population is very considerable. About eighteen
miles from Guelph, in the township of Dumfries, the Hon. Mr. Dixon
founded the town of Galt: its situation is excellent, and will, no
doubt, attract settlers of respectability and capital. There are
several villages rising into importance in the district, particularly
on the main road from York to the Niagara district; the princial of
which are, Ancaster, and Dundas. This district is divided into
eighteen townships, viz,. Trafalgar, Nelson, and Flamboro east,
on the head of lake Ontario, called Burlington bay; Ancaster, at
the extreme point of the bay, Beverley and, Dumfries, Esquising,
Nassagiweya, Flamboro West, Puslinch, Waterloo, and Wilmot, Erin,
Eramosa, Guelph, Garafraxa, Nichol, Woolwich, and the reserve for
the six nations, or Aborigines of North America. In many of the
townships the farms have attained a well cultivated appearance,
comfort and cheerful industry are very apparent, where the settlers
are occupied in the clearing of land, or conducting the business of
more advanced husbandry. The humble shanty, the original nest of the
family, is frequently observed- beside the new and more extended mansion,
and is calculated to form a useful memorial of the days when they
entered the great Forest, but which a few short years have transformed
into luxuriant fields of corn; and Mr. Fergusson states, that
cleanliness and comfort seemed to prevail in the interior of
each habitation, and that the women and children were particularly
tidy and neat; he also speaks highly of Summer's tavern, in Nelson
township, about thirty-five miles from York. The surface of the
country from Nelson to Guelph, is finely undulated, with copious
springs, numerous rivulets, and romantic dells; the road in some is in
a bad state, particularly when passing over swamps: it may not be
amiss here to state, that the roads across swamps are formed of
logs or trees, laid side by side, in consequence of which they have
obtained the name of Corduroy's. The Canadian horses, with infinite
caution, contrive to scramble over them; but a stranger feels rather
uncomfortable at the occasional flounders of his horse in a mud hole,
or the giving way of a rotten log. However, these little annoyances
will soon be corrected; and even at present they only affect the settler
in the summer months, at a time when he is least disposed to leave home,
or make use of the roads;-a new bridge has been just erected across the
river Speed, at Guelph, and round which the river flows. The land in
the township of Waterloo is very good, and the farms greatly improved;
the stock large, and in excellent condition; the inhabitants, are mostly
Dutch-their dwelling-houses, offices, and gardens, are kept with a
degree of neatness not to be surpassed in Canada, occasionally the
traveller meets the residence of a negro family, whose house and farm
speak the steady labour that has been bestowed on them, and clearly
proves, that the negro will not prove too indolent for labour in
a state of freedom: numbers of these poor creatures escape from
that land of liberty, the United States, and settle in various
parts of the Canadas. Galt is on the bank of the Ouse, and the
proprietor of the township resides here; and by his judicious and
liberal conduct, have produced a great influx of emigrants, from whom
he receives payment of the purchase money of land by instalments,
in money or produce, at such times as they can afford to pay; and
even in some instances, he has supplied the means of purchasing
oxen, implements, and seed. Flour and saw mills, cooperage,
&c., have been established here; and it has been lately ascertained
that the Ouse is navigable to the Welland canal, a distance, by water,
of 100 miles, and which is a discovery of incalculable value to this
district, as farming produce can now be conveyed by this line to
lake Ontario, at one third the cost which had been theretofore incurred.
Many very superior lots of land are to be met with in this district,
in convenient situations, and at moderate prices; the emigrant must
not forget that in the Canadas a very few years produces more change
in the appearance of the country, and in the value of land, than he
can almost imagine; and that these changes are for the better, so much
so, that it would almost require an annual publication to give a true
picture of the Canadas.
The Niagara District is bounded on the east, by the Niagara river,
which passes from lake Erie to lake Ontario;- on the west, by the
London district; on the north, by lake Ontario, and a part of the
Gore district; and on the south, by lake Erie. It is in shape nearly
an oblong; the Ouse traverses a considerable portion of it; and the
Welland canal before mentioned, connects the navigation of the two
lakes passing through this district. There are several towns and
villages in Niagara: the principal of which are, Hamilton, a neat town,
with a handsome Courthouse erected for the district; Fort George, or
Niagara, also called Newark, on lake Ontario, and at the mouth of the
Niagara river: it is a thriving town-the arrival at and departure from,
of the various steam-boats, sloops, and other vessels employed
on the lake, must greatly increase its prosperity. It is protected
by a fort, in which there is a large detachment of military; a weekly
market is held in the town, which is well attended. Grimsby is
eighteen miles from Hamilton, on the road to Queenston. The country
along this line is, in many places, romantic and beautiful, with fine
farms, and rich orchards of peach, plum, cherry, apple, &c. The crops
in general are of the best description, and most abundant, particularly,
the wheat; the road runs by the ridge which passes round the head of
lake Ontario, and over which the waters of the Niagara fall. Grimsby
is a neat town, near the margin of the lake, under the brow of the ridge;
St. Catharine's is upon the summit level of the Welland canal, and
which at this point descends by wooden locks to the level of the lake
-the canal was opened about a year since. The country between this
and Queenston is mostly under culture, interspersed with numerous
fine orchards.
Queenston is situated on the Niagara, opposite the American village
of Lewiston; the monument erected to the memory of the gallant and
lamented General Brock, is on the loftiest part of the heights of
Queenston, and forms an object of much interest to the traveller.
This town contains a church, court house, government stores, and has
a numerous and increasing population. Four miles west of Queenston,
is the village of St. David's, on a small stream called Four Mile Creek.
Chippewa, on both sides of the Welland river, and ten miles from
Queenston, contains a barrack, small fort, and some neat houses. At
the head of the Niagara river, and sixteen miles from Chippewa, near
Fort Erie, is the village of Waterloo, opposite Black Rock and Buffalo,
on the American bank; (convenient to the Falls, in the States, is the
village of Manchester, having good hotels, and various mills;) other
villages and hamlets are scattered in this district, but those already
mentioned are the principal. There is a splendid establishment near
the Falls of Niagara, called Forsyth's Hotel, where every accommodation
can be had, and is much frequented by persons visiting the Falls,
Mr. Fergusson says, when speaking of Niagara, that "the most eloquent
description will prove inadequate to convey a just conception of the
scene, nor can the pencil ever do it justice. A cataract may be said
(as regards the painter's art) to differ from all objects in nature:
the human face and figure, the rich and varied landscape, the animal
and vegetable world, may, with sufficient propriety, be delineated at
rest: but quiescence forms no feature here: the ceaseless roar, the
spray mounting like clouds of smoke from a great limekiln, with the
enormous sheet of water which rolls over the precipice, can be
felt and understood only by repeated visits to the scene." The
rapids above the Falls, are extremely interesting, and excite
admiration and wonder. A short distance above the Falls, the
river is a mile across, and presents one continued sheet of foam;
below the Falls there is a ferry to the American side, and from it
the scene is magnificent- the Horse Shoe, the American Fall, and
Goat Island being all in view, with the great cauldron boiling and
eddying in fearful and endless disorder. Much might be written
respecting this very interesting district; but here any thing
further would exceed the limits prescribed for this work, except
stating the respective townships into which it is divided, and of
which there are twenty-one, viz., Barton, Saltfleet, Grimsby, Clinton,
Louth, Grantham, and Niagara, on the south shore of lake Ontario;
Glanford, Binbrook, Caistor, Gainsboro, Pelham, Thorold, and Stamford,
in rere of the former; Canboro, Moulton, Wainfleet, Humberstone, Bertie,
Crowland, and Willoughby, partly bounded by the north shore of lake Erie,
and on the east by the Niagara river. Several highly respectable
individuals have published a project of an intended city at the Falls,
intended or designed to be the Bath or Brighton of the North American continent.
The London District, including the Indian territory, is bounded
on the east, by the Niagara, Gore, and Home districts; on the west,
by the Western District and lake Huron; on the north, by the same lake:
and on the south, by lake Erie. The quality of the soil, in the extensive
district, is extremely good, and generally composed of a deep, rich,
black loam, and thinly timbered. The Thames, Ouse, Aux Sables, Maitland,
and several other rivers water this tract in various directions, in
addition to the extensive water frontier which it possesses. On the
road which passes the frontier of lake Erie, is the village of Dover,
in the township of Woodhouse; ten miles further is the village of
Charlotteville, in which iron works have been established, and which
are well supplied with ore from the neighbourhood. To the north of
Charlotteville, on the post road, is another village, called Victoria;
Oxford, on the road called Dundas street, is ninety miles from York;
London, situate on the Thames and on the same route, is 128 miles;
the village of Dellaware also on the Thames, and not very distant from
London, is principally inhabited by Indians, and near which there is a
Moravian settlement, who, by industry and good conduct exhibit
an example to the Indian converts over whom they exercise a missionary
superintendance; the settlement is in a flourishing state, and the land
highly cultivated; the Indians appear cheerful, contented, and happy,
and many of them are very intelligent. Goderich, on lake Huron, is a
town recently founded by the Canada Company in their tract- the river
Maitland falls into the Huron at this town. It is the only port
on the Canadian side of the lake, and is capable of containing vessels
of 200 tons burthen. The town has been judiciously planned on the
elevated shores of the lake, by which, and the Maitland, it is surrounded
on three sides; the streets diverge from an octagon-shaped market-place;
roads are in progress to various parts, and the Canada Company have
engaged to expend a sum of £48,000 in this tract, in the making roads,
improvement of water communications, building of churches, school houses,
bridges, wharfs, and other works, for the benefit and accomodation of
the public. On the shore, and about the centre of lake Erie, is situate
the celebrated settlement of Colonel Talbot, and which he commenced in
1802; the progress which he has made is truly astonishing. Roads are
now made from Port Talbot on every side, and the whole presents one of
the most highly improved and valuable tracts in the province: he has
located nearly 80,000 souls, or 6,000 families. A considerable portion
of this district has been surveyed, and laid out into townships; the
Huron tract is now the exclusive property of the Canada Company. There
are fifty-four townships, viz., Rainham, Walpole, Woodhouse, Charlotteville,
Walsingham, from whence long point extends into lake Erie; Houghton,
Bayham, Malahide, Yarmouth, Southwold, Dunwich and Aldborough,
on lake Erie; Townsend, Wyndham, Norwich, Dereham, Dorchester North,
Dorchester South, Westminster, Delaware, Carradoc, Ekfrid and Mosa,
in rere of the former; Burford, Oxford East, Oxford West, Oxford North,
Nissouri, London, and Lobo being the third range of townships from lake Erie;
Blenheim, Blandford, and Zorra: the following are in the Canada Company's
Huron tract, North Easthope, South Easthope, Ellice, Logan, McKillop,
Hullett, Colborne, to the north, and bounding land belonging to the Crown;
Downie, Fullarton, Hibbert and Tucker, Smith, Goderich, Stanley, Hay,
Stephen, McGillivray, and Bosanquet, on lake Huron; William, Biddulph,
Blanchard, and Usborne, in the Interior. The Indian territory lies to the
north of the Huron tract, and has not been yet explored.
The Western District is bounded on the East by the London district, on
the West by the river St. Clair, lake St. Clair, and Detroit river, on
the North by lake Huron, and on the South by lake Erie, the St. Clair runs
from lake Huron to lake St. Clair, the Detroit river from lake St. Clair
to lake Erie. This tract is tongue-shaped, lake St. Clair indenting it,
and approaching lake Erie, and is surrounded on three sides by rivers and
lakes. The Thames and Big Beer Creek rivers flow from the London district,
through this, and falls into lake St. Clair. The Thames is navigable for
vessels of considerable size, to Chatham, about fifteen miles
from its mouth, and for boats to London. The rivers which fall into
lake St. Clair, flow through rich alluvial soils, and bring down a
large quantity of mud, particularly in spring, this being deposited
at the mouth of the different rivers, forms bars, which are rapidly
increasing, and encroaching on the lake in a semicircular form like a
ridge, alternately with a prairie, and a marshy run of water. It is
supposed that eventually the entire of lake St. Clair will become a
fertile plain, with a deep sluggish river running through it. Besides
the rivers already mentioned, several other streams flow through this
district. Amherstburgh (on the east bank of the Detroit about three
miles from lake Erie) is the principal town. This beautifully situated
and somewhat wealthy town was founded by the French upwards of a
century ago, and being a frontier post, and military depot during the war,
the state of society is more refined than in any of the other towns
in this province. This town possesses a safe and convenient harbour,
and its situation is much admired, being in the midst of a fine country,
intersperscd with rich and luxuriant orchards, bearing, in the highest
perfection, the rarest fruits in the open air, without any particular
attention or care, it contains a Church, Court house, Gaol, and some
other public buildings, also several good houses, shops, hotels,
a numerous population. Fourteen miles higher up the Detroit, and
about midway between lakes St. Clair and Erie, the town of Sandwich
has been built, containing nearly two hundred houses, also a Church,
court-house, Gaol, &c. Chatham village, on the Thames, is in the
centre of a rich and improving tract and will, no doubt, become
a town of some importance, and a place of export for farming
produce. There are several villages scattered through the
district, and many flourishing settlements, also an Indian
village in the township of Zone. On the northern banks, and
near the head of lake Erie, there is a large settlement of
American loyalists. Along the Detroit, the lots for settlements
have been laid out in long narrow slips, in the manner of the
seignorial concessions of Lower Canada, and the manners of the
people partake much of the character of the better sort of Canadians
of the lower province. Hemp, flax, and tobacco have been
cultivated in this district. The quantity of tobacco sent to
market has been very considerable. There are several roads made,
and others projected to various parts. Many persons conceive
that a Canal from St. Clair to lake Erie, by the Romney township
line, or from the river Thames at its nearest point to lake
Erie,. would, by turning the waters of the St. Clair through
that channel, drain, and otherwise improve a vast quantity of
land, now mostly under water, and that the greater part of lake
St. Clair would be completely drained. This district is divided
into twenty-three townships, as follows:- Orford, Howard,
Harwich, Raleigh, Tilbury, East Rowney, Mersea, Gosfield and
Colchester, on lake Erie; Zone, Camden, and Chatham, Dover,
Tilbury West, Rochester West, and Maidstone, on lake St. Clair;
Sandwich, Maiden, and Amherstburgh, on Detroit river; St. Clair,
Indian Reserves, and Sombra, on the St. Clair river; and Dawn in
the interior adjoining Sombra; there is also a considerable
tract towards the North, and adjoining lake Huron not yet named,
the London and Western districts have been called the Garden of Canada,
and there is not in America so large a tract of unexceptionable land,
it is based on limestone rock, over which there is a stratum of clay,
then a layer of gravel, varying in thickness, and the surface or mould
is of a loamy description, sometimes sandy and clayey, but in every
case highly productive. In many parts of this province Gypsum is
found in great abundance; which makes a superior top dressing
for grass lands, and is a most valuable manure, acting upon land,
as lime does, but used in a lesser proportion. Salt is also much
used in the Canadas, and perhaps it is more necessary there than
in the United Kingdoms, the atmosphere, being in the interior so
far removed from the influence of the sea.
CITIES AND TOWNS.
Quebec is proudly seated on Cape Diamond, on the northern banks
of the St. Lawrence, the lower town is at the foot of the
promontory, and is excessively crowded with buildings, for the
convenience of the shipping. The warehouses and stores are
built on the wharfs; the streets are narrow and not very clean;
the ascent to the Upper Town irregular, but the houses and
buildings improve as you advance; they are mostly built of grey
stone, with high sloping roofs, generally covered with tin or
sheet iron. The view from the ramparts of the citadel of the
celebrated plains of Abram beyond can scarcely be equalled.
The citadel is built on the river-ward edge of the rock, at the
height of 350 feet above the level of the St. Lawrence. Here also
stands the Governor's residence and other public buildings, also a
monument to the memory of Wolfe. The Upper Town is entered by a
fortified gate from which streets diverge in various directions;
and one of which leads to a large and spacious square. The streets
in this part of the town are wide, and the houses large and
respectable. The population is about 30,000, or upwards, The
customhouse is in the lower town. Government has expended large sums
of money upon the fortifications of Quebec, and which are almost
impregnable; the walls of the citadel are forty feet high, and the
ditch about fifty feet wide, cut out of the solid rock. From the
old Cavalier's Battery, on the summit, there is a magnificent view
of the noble St. Lawrence, underneath is the city, with its wharfs
and numerous shipping. On the opposite or southern shore rises
Point Levi, enlivened by many a gay building, and improved farms.
To the east the Isle of Orleans is seen dividing the river, and on
the north east the river Montmorenci precipitates its waters over a
fall 240 feet in height. The plains of Abram extend to the westward,
and the main road to Montreaa intersects them. The inhabitants of
Quebec are of various nations, French Canadians, English, Irish, Scotch,
Americans, Indians, and various others. Law proceedings are conducted
in English and French, being the languages generally spoken. The influx
of emigrants to the port of Quebec to the 16th of September, 1832,
amounted to 49,569, being an increase of 3,500 over the preceding year
to the same date, and it is probable that nearly 5,000 arrived after
that date. Several steamboats arrive at and depart from Quebec every
day, and of which Mr. Molsom is the principal proprietor.
There are several public buildings in Quebec, some of them equal
to many in European cities, the principal of which are the houses in
which the Provincial Parliament holds their sittings, the Seminary or
Collegiate building, Court house, Gaol, Metropolitan Catholic Cathedral,
Protestant Cathedral, Ursuline and other Convents, Armoury, Bank,
library, Exchange, and various others usual in principal cities.
Between St. Louis and St. John's Gate is a fine esplanade, and is the
usual place of parade for the troops of the garrison.
Point aux Tremble is a considerable town on the St. Lawrence,
twenty-four miles from Quebec, and contains a Collegiate Church,
a Convent for Nuns, and a considerable population, all of whom are
French Caadians.
Three Rivers is situate on a point of land on the north bank of
the St. Lawrence, where the St. Maurice (on which the celebrated
iron works and forges are erected,) falls into it. This is one of
the oldest towns in Canada; it contains a Protestant and Catholic
Church, a Convent of Ursulines, which may be more properly called
an Hospital and Seminary for female Education, Courthouse for the
district, Gaol, Barrick, &c. The population exceeds 3,000. The
houses are generally built of wood; there is a considerable trade
carried on at Three Rivers. The forges on the St. Maurice are about
seven miles distant.
Berthier is midway between Three Rivers and Montreal, and through which
the stage coaches pass. It contains a handsome Church, inns, shops, and
over 900 inhabitants. It is a place of considerable importance, and has
many stores for general merchandize.
William Henry is 135 miles from Quebec, on the south bank of the
St. Lawrence, having the Richelieu river on the west; it is regularly
laid out with a square in the Centre, and contains well-built Protestant
and Catholic churches, block-house, Hospital, and a small garrison.
From its salubrious and pleasant situation, this town is generally the
summer residence of the Governor of the province. The population is
about 2000. The steam boats take in fuel here.
Montreal is situated on the south of the island, and seigniory of Montreal.
The new and upper part of the city is well laid out, and contains some
good streets; many of the houses are handsome; the view of the city as it
is approached from Prairie is splendid, the glistening tin roofs of
houses, nunneries, and churches, give its magnificent appearance rarely
equalled, while the mountain, with its woods, orchards, villas, and rocks,
forms a beautiful and romantic background to the picture. Many of the
public buildings are well designed and executed, particularly the Court-house
and Gaol, and the Roman Catholic Cathedral, lately erected at an expense
of 100,000£. The material employed for building is a fine dark grey
limestone susceptible of a good polish. The shops and houses are generally
provided with iron shutters, which gives the city a gloomy and prison-like
appearance on Sundays. As yet no quays have been built; but they are in
contemplation. There are two market-places in Montreal, in one of which
stands a monument to Lord Nelson, which is a Doric column, surmounted by
a colossal statue of the naval hero. The Champ de Mars is an agreeable
esplanade planted round with Lombardy poplars, and contains several
handsome buildings. The troops of the garrison are reviewed here, and
the military bands perform during the evenings, in summer and autumn,
for the amusement of the fashionables who promenade there. There are
several churches and protestant places of worship in this city, the
principal of which is in Notre Dame-street; it is a handsome stone
edifice with a beautiful spire. There are considerable number of
charitable institutions, colleges, seminaries, libraries, and other
public buildings, in Montreal, there are several excellent hotels,
and one of them near the river is more like a public edifice than a
house of entertainment. The population exceeds 30,000, and is of a very
mixed character, native Canadians in their, grey surtouts; Indians
wrapt up in their blankets; English, Irish, and Scotch, are seen
bustling along, with priests and bands of pretty little female choristers
arrayed in white, flitting from church to convent, and some few mendicants
soliciting alms. The artillery station is on the river St. Helen's opposite
the lower end of the city. For the accomodation of trade, it is expected
that a Custom-house will be erected, but at present all vessels clear
out from Quebec. The royal mountain which overlooks the city, whose
altitude is 800 feet above the river, is considered for soft luxuriant
beauty, not to be equalled in America. Round this mountain is the
favourite drive of the citizens.
The principal towns in the upper province have been already noticed in
their respective districts, and therefore it is not neceassry to mention
them again, it may not, however, be uninteresting to the public to mention,
that a new city is about being erected at the Falls of Niagara, and the
following is the substance of a paper recently published or circulated
in the Canadas and United States.
CITY OF THE FALLS.
Mr. Forsyth having disposed of his interest in the property at the
Falls of Niagara, it is proposed to found a city on the elevated grounds
contiguos to the falls, a situation the most healthful on the North
American Continent. After mentioning several probable causes for the
salubrity of this place-the places of attraction in America, and that
none of them possess the advntages to be found in any of the many places
of fashionable resort in Europe; the situation of the Falls for the
formation of a city embracing the several advantages necessary, is
pointed out, and particularly the various means for internal communication
with the entire Continent of America. It is alleged, that the proposed
"City of the Falls" is placed like the heart in the human body, standing
in the direct route of persons travelling to and from various parts of
this country, and affording an easy approach for the annual aasemblage
of the fashionable, the learned, and the great.
These considerations have led to the ronnation of a company of gentlemen,
who have purchased Forsyth's grounds, houses, &c. and who propose to lay
out the lands so purchased, in streets, or lots to be sold for buildings,
according to a scale, insuring the comfort of the new community. The
association propose to place the Pavilion and Ontario house under proper
superintendance; so that all who resort there will find a union of comfort
with economy, in the midst of a society truly desirable. Baths are to be
erected near the cataract, and over these a splendid pump-room, reading
room, library, &c., for the accommodation of all visiters-the grounds to
be laid out in the most approved style; lots will be set apart for public
buildings; cottages to be forthwith erected and furnished for private
families resorting to the falls during Summer. The Pavilion is intended
for those who propose remaining over a week; Ontario house for those
staying a shorter period; both to be well supplied with everyone necessary
accommodation, at moderate charges. Peculiar advantages are held out to
such as may erect houses during the present year for permanent or Summer
residences; streets to be laid, out and marked in building lots; materials
are from 50 to 100 per cent cheaper than in New York; the city will
afford a most agreeable, permanent residence for respectable families
of limited income, the necessaries and luxuries of life being remarkably
cheap; good schools will be formed, and the best society met without
the expense of entertaining them. A charter is to be applied for, so that
aliens may hpld real estate in the city; proprietors, Hon. W. Allen,
James Buchanan, Esq, Hon. Thomas Clarke, Hon. J. H. Dunn, Thomas Dixon, Esq.,
Lieutenant General Murray, James Robinson, Esq., and Samuel Street, Esq.
The survey was to have been completed the 1st of August last; and an
agent is in attendance, to give every necessary information. General Murray
has already fixed his residence at the new city, and several other gentlemen
contemplate building immediately.
LAKES AND CANALS.
In concluding this sketch of the Canadas it may not be thought
unimportant to give the particulars of the extent of the principal
Lakes and Canals. Lake Ontario is the first on the river St.
Lawrence; its greatest length is 180 miles, and greatest breadth 60
miles, and average depth 500 feet; it is calculated that the
surface of this Lake is about 200 feet above the level of the
St. Lawrence, at Three Rivers. Lake Erie is the next, and is separated
from Ontario by the Niagara river (upon which the celebrated falls are);
it is about 270 miles in length, nearly 70 miles in breadth, and 200 feet
in depth, and upward of 300 feet above the level of Lake Ontario.
Lake Huron is 246 miles in length, 220 in breadth, and nearly 1000 feet
in depth; this Lake is not more than 60 or 70 feet above the level of
Lake Erie. Lake Superior is the largest in the Canadas, and is supposed
to be 1500 miles in circumference, and is about the same depth as Lake
Huron and its surface is calculated to be over 1000 feet above the
level of the sea. This Lake may be called the real head of the
St. Lawrence, and presents one vast line of water communication from
the sea by the several lakes, rivers, and canals, to the head of
Lake Superior, of at least 2000 miles in extent. The precise extent
of the various other lakes has not been ascertained with sufficient
accuracy, so as to notice them in this work.
The Welland Canal unites Lakes Erie and Ontario, and enables vessels
to surmount the Falls of Niagara. It is about 42 miles in length, and
has 37 locks in its course, each of which is 100 feet in length by
22 feet in breadth; the Canal is 56 feet in width at the surface of
the water, 26 feet at the bottom, and 8 1/2 feet in depth.
The Rideau Canal, between Kingston on Lake Ontario and Bytown on the
River Ottawa, is 185 miles in length, including the numerous lakes and
dams in its course, and of which the Rideau Lake forms a portion of
24 miles (being about 250 feet above the level of the Ottawa, and
150 feet above, the level of Lake Ontario.) There are on this Canal
47 locks, each 142 feet in length, 33 feet in breadth, and 5 feet in
depth; there are also on this line 20 dams, whereby the waters of the
rivers and lakes are raised at different points to the levels required,
and by which means the expense of excavating to an enormous extent is
saved; this is a new principle in engineering, and well suited to the
waters of these provinces.
The Grenville Canal is on the northern bank of the Ottawa for
the avoiding the rapids on that river; it is in three sections,
namely-opposite the long Salt rapids, the Chute a Blondeau and
the Carillon rapids. These canals are 48 feet in breadth at the
surface of the water, 28 feet at the bottom, and 5 feet in depth.
The Lachine Canal, from Montreal to the village of Lachine,
along the banks of the St. Lawrence, was made for the purpose of
avoiding the rapids, or cascade, called Sault St. Louis, it
is about 8 miles in length, 48 feet in breadth, at the surface of
the water; 28 feet at the bottom, and 5 feet in depth; the locks
are 100 feet in length, by 20 feet in breadth; but these will
be altered to the same size as those of the Rideau, if another canal
is not cut at the rere of the Island of Montreal.
It is very probable that various other canals will, in a short
time, be made in Upper Canada, when the country becomes better
settled, and a consequent necessity for such means of conveying the
produce of the land to market; and particularly in this country where
the great expense of such works is considerably reduced by the
numerous rivers, whose level waters only require occasional locks or
dams, or short canals, to open communications between them, many persons
in the Canadas are favourable to rail-roads; but on the whole, it is
considered, that for many years water conveyance will be found
more advantageous to the interests and improvement of the country.
NEW BRUNSWICK.
As the province of New Brunswick is closely connected with Lower Canada,
and many persons may feel disposed to settle there, the following short
notice has been prepared, by which it will appear that it is by no means
an unimportant portion of the British dominions in America:- it is
about 180 miles in extent from East to West, and 200 from North to
South, and is situate between the boundary line of the United States on
the South West, and the bay of Chaleur and river Ristigouche, which
divides it from Lower Canada on the North, and has to the East an
extensive sea-coast from the bay of Chaleur to the bay of Fundy; a great
part of the country is still a complete wilderness, but the soil in
general is extremely rich and fertile; a small portion near the
coast, on the bay of Fundy, is rocky and hard to cultivate; the
immense forests which cover the country are principally composed
of pine, birch, beech, and maple, with some others; the trees are of
enormous size, and considered the finest in America; the land is very
level, having few hills, and none that can be properly called mountains.
At particular seasons in the year the several rivers overflow their
banks and irrigate the soil. Beaver meadows are very frequent in the
interior on the banks of small streams. This province is well watered by
numerous rivers, the principal of which are, St. John's, Miramichi,
Nipishighit, Magadavic, Richibucto, Oromocto, Petit Coudiac, and several
others, which are navigable for a considerable distance into the country.
The lakes are very numerous, and some of them of considerable extent,
viz. Grand Lake, Oromocto and Big Magadavic Lake. Limestone and marble
are found in various parts in great abundance-also coal, iron ore,
gypsum, &c., which must add to the prosperity of the province;
the scenery on the rivers, lakes, and cataracts, is picturesque
and beautiful-often wild and romantic. Wild animals are very numerous
in the woods, and amongst others are bears, moose, deer, foxes,
tiger-cats, racoons, porcupines, martins, beavers, otters, hares,
weasels, &c. &c.
Fish is very abundant on the coast, and in the rivers and lakes.
Cod, haddock, mackerel, salmon, shad, bass, &c. &c. are the principal,
but there are many others.
The climate of New Brunswick is salubrious; the fevers of the
Southern States of America are unknown here; occasional colds
and gentle typhus fever in the beginning of winter are the
prevailing diseases, and are generally contracted in the beginning
of winter for want of proper precaution at the change of the season.
Rheumatism affects lumberers, who are much exposed to cold and
wet in the rivers getting down the rafts of timber. The country is
fully as healthy as England; The population does not exceed 90,000,
although it is capable of maintaining 3,000,000. The principal
settlements are along the banks of all the navigable rivers, and
many of them very flourishing. The chief towns are St. John's,
Frederickton, St. Andrew's, and Miramichi.
In 1785, by a royal charter, New Brunswick was constituted a district
province, and a Governor appointed; the government consists of the
Governor, Council of Twelve, and House of Representatives of twenty eight
member, returned by the counties and cities. The Governor sits in the
Court of Chancery; a Chief and three Puisne Judges sit in the Supreme
Court, which is somewhat similar in practice to the King's Bench in
Great Britain. Civil and criminal cases are tried in this Court-terms
in February, May, July, and October. Inferior courts or courts of
Commons Pleas are held in the several counties for trial of petty
offences and actions of small amount-debts under £5. are recoverable
before the Magistrates. The revenue of the province amounts to about
£43,000, and is raised by trifling duties on imports, rent of wild meadows,
and lands belonging to the crown, this is appropriated by the House
of Assembly, to the necessary purposes of the government, and
improving the country. This province is divided into ten counties,
viz. St. John's, Westmoreland, Charlotte, Sunbury, York, Northumberland,
Kent, Gloucester, Devon, and Hereford; St. John's is the largest town,
though it is not the metropolis, (Frederickton being the seat of
government)-it has an excellent Court-house, Marine Hospital, Poor-house,
Gaol, two Episcopal Churches, Scotch Kirk, Roman Catholic Chapel,
Methodist, and Baptist Chapels, Bank, &c., and the city is governed
by a Mayor, Recorder, six Aldermen, Sheriff &c., who hold a court for the
county and city of St. John's. The government price of land in the
forest is 3s. per acre, but improved land can be had in various parts
at moderate rates, near the chief towns land is very valuable, and
brings very high prices.
Summer continues seven months, winter five; the weather in
winter is cold and dry, frost and snow for four months ;.
summer dry and warm; thermometer from 60 to 90. The staple trade
consists of exports of timber of every description in gross and
in plank, staves, &c., salted fish, and ship building. The
imports, of flour from the United States and Canada, and all the
luxuries of life from Great Britain. The great tide of
emigration to the Canadas has nearly put the many advantages
which this province possesses in the back ground, and few of the
late writers on British America have noticed it at all. This is
not fair dealing, particularly when upon enquiry and full
examination it will be found that this province posseses some of
the best land in America, an equally good climate, and
facilities to the emigrant in obtaining land and effecting a
settlement at a cheaper rate than in the Canadas.
The following papers have been circulated by
His Majesty' Agent at Quebec:
ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS.
Quebec, 1st May, 1832.
There is nothing of more importance to Emigrants on arrival at
Quebec, than correct information on the leading points connected
with their future pursuits. Many have suffered much by a want of
caution, and by listening to the opinions of interested designing
characters, who frequently offer their advice unsolicited, and who
are met generally about wharfs, and landing places frequented by
strangers. To guard emigrants from falling into such errors, they
should, immediately on arrival at Quebec, proceed to the Office of
the Chief Agent for Emigrants, in Sault au Matelot street, Lower Town,
where every information requisite to their future guidance in either
getting settlement on lands, or obtaining employment in Upper or Lower
Canada, will be obtained (gratis.)
The following Directions are of importance to the Emigrant arriving in
Canada, and are addressed to him in the simplest language.
Previous to disembarkation, arrange your baggage in a small compass,
the fewer packages the better, but have them well secured,-old dirty
clothing, large-boxes, and other useless article are not worth the
carriages if you have any provisions left, such as oatmeal, potatoes, &c.
you can sell them at Quebec at a profit, and avoid the expense of
transport, and you can purchase baker's bread, butter, tea, sugar,
and other necessaries more suited for your journey. All sorts of
provisions may be bought cheaper, and generally of a better quality,
in Montreal and Upper Canada, than at Quebec. Dress yourself in light
clean clothing. Females frequently bring on sickness, by being too
warmly clothed. Cut your hair short, and wash daily and thoroughly.
Avoid drinking ardent spirits of any kind, and when heated do not drink
cold water. Eat moderately of light food. Avoid night dews. By attending
to the preceding directions, sickness will be prevented, with other
serious inconveniences. When every thing is ready for disembarkation,
and if the ship is lying at anchor in the river;-take care in passing
from the ship to the boat; avoid all haste and see that your baggage
is in the same conveyance with yourself, or left under the charge of
some friend, with your name on it. If the ship hauls to the wharf
to disembark, do not be in a hurry, but await the proper time of
tide, when the ships deck will be on a line with the quay or wharf.
Passengers are entitled by law to the privilege of remaining on board
ship 48 hours after arrival; and it is unlawful for the Captain to
deprive his passengers of any of their usual accommodations for cooking
or otherwise; you may therefore avoid the expense of lodgings, and make
all your arragements for prosecuting your journey. Previous to
disembarkation, should sickness overtake you, proceed immediately,
or be removed to the Emigrant Hospital, in St. John's Suburb., where
you will be taken care of and provided with every thing needful until
restored to health. Medicene and medical advice also be had at the
Dispensary attached to the Quebec Charitable Emigrant Society. This
society will grant relief to all destitute emigrants. In Montreal there
is a similar institution for the relief of emigrants. It is particularly
recommended to emigrants, not to loiter their valuable time at the port
of landing; but to proceed to obtain settldment or employment. Many
have regretted when too late that they did not pursue this course, and
take advantage of the frequent opportunities that presented themselves
for settlement in convenient situations in Upper or Lower Canada,
instead of squandering their means and valuable time in looking
after an imaginary paradise in the aguish swamps of Illinois and
Missouri, or other distant regions of the Western States. There
is no portion of the American continent more congenial to the constitution
or habits of emigrants from the United Kingdom, or that offer a wider
field or surer reward for industry and good conduct, than the fertile
districts of Upper Canada or Lower Canada. Many emigrants will find
employment in the city of Quebec and its vicinity, as also in and about
Montreal. Single men in particular are advised to embrace the offer, but
emigrants with large families had better proceed without delay to Upper
Canada, as hereafter directed, or to situations in Lower Canada, particularly
the Eastern townships, and if they have sons and daughters grown up,
they will find a sure demand for their services. Artificiers, and
mechanics of all denominations, and farming labourers, if sober and
industrious, may be sure of doing well. Blacksmiths, particularly those
acquainted with steam engine work, also good millwrights and sawyers by
machinery, are much wanted in the Canadas.
The following are the current rates of wages paid in Upper and
Lower Canada to persons acquainted with the country;-strangers
ought not to expect so much:
Upper Canada Lower Canada
s. d. to s. d. s. d. to s. d.
Ship Carpenters and Joiners, per day 5 0 7 6 3 6 6 0
Bricklayers and masons do 4 6 7 6 4 0 6 0
Blacksmiths, millwrights, &c. do 5 0 8 6 3 6 7 6
Farm and Common labourers, &c do 2 6 4 0 2 0 3 0
Ditto Ditto, per month and found 30 0 60 0 20 0 50 0
House Servants, (men) do do 30 0 50 0 20 0 40 0
Ditto do (females) do 20 0 35 0 10 0 30 0
A great number of labourers are employed on board ships, and about
timber-yards at Quebec and Montreal, who get from 3s. to 4s. 6d. a day,
and generally found. The extravagant habits engsndeted in such
occupations, are decidedly in favour of the labouring emigrant proceeding
immediatly to the country. Emigrants with families, and who are possessed
of from £20 to £25, are advised to push immediately into the woods, in
the vicinity of old settlements where they can obtain provisions for their
spare labour. The difficulties, although great at first, soon subside,
and much experience is the result. The cost of clearing wild lands, and
making it ready for crop, is from 50s. to 70s. per acre in Upper Canada
and the Townships of Lower Canada. To these I should say, select a
favourable spot for your log house near a spring of water, or running
stream, and where a cellar to keep your potatos is winter can be dug
under the house.
[ Carefully clear the timber and brush to a distance from your
dwelling and out buildings; or, in the event of a fire in the
woods, great risk is incurred of their being destroyed. ]
If you proceed to build houses and clear lands on a
large scale on first arrival, it rarely succeeds so well; for the price
of labour is so high, and the difficulty of getting persons to work,
added to the great expense of providing food for increased numbers, until
produced from your own land, ought in every instance to induce the
strange emigrant and family to proceed cautiously in laying out their
money; but a crop of potatoes and fodder for a cow is the first object,
and this may be accomplished the first year, if you arrive early. The
second you will be enabled to feed your family with the necessaries of
life, and the third year you may find yourself possessed of a yoke of oxen,
a cow or two, and a year old calf, a couple of pigs, poultry, &c.
abundance of provisions for your family, and fodder for your cattle.
The Irish and Scotch peasantry know well how to value the economy of
a milch cow; every new settler ought to strive to obtain one as soon as
possible, taking care to provide a sufficiency of fodder for the
long winter. Cattle require a little salt in the Canadas. It is
not considerd necessary to go further into the details of the first
settlement, as on all these points you will be guided by your own
observations on the spot, and the advice you will get from the local
agents and superintendents. Great caution is necessary in all your
transactions. When you stant in need of advice, apply to the
government agents, or other respectable sources. You will find many
plans and schemes offered to your consideration, on your route from
Quebec to your destination in Upper Canada; but turn away from them
unless you are well satisfied of the purity of the statements. Should
you require to change your English money, go to the banks or some
well known respectable person. The currency in the Canadas, is at the
rate of 5s. to the dollar, and is called Halifax currency. The
value of English gold, or silver, is regulated by the rate of
exchange in England, which fluctuates. At present the gold sovereign
is worth 23s. 6d. to 24s. currency. In New York 8s. is
calculated for the dollar; hence many are deceived when hearing
of the rates of labour, &c. In Canada, 5s. equal to 8s. in New York;
thus, 8s. New York currency is equivalent to 5s. Halifax. In Upper Canada,
and in the Townships of Lower Canada, the tenure of land is "Free and
Common Soccage," as in England. In the Seigneurial or French parts of
Lower Canada, the feudal or French tenure is the custom. In the Canadas
you live under the British laws and constitution, and are lees incumbered
with taxes or local imposts, than in any other country on the face of
the globe. You ought, previous to leaving Quebec, to apply at the Post
office should you expect any letters, and if you are writing to your
friends in the United Kingdom by post, you must pay the postage; so
also when writing to the United States. Letters from one part of the
Canadas to the other do not recquire to be post-paid. Emigrants may
forward letters to the United Kingdom from Quebec, by taking them to
the keeper of the Merchant's Exchange, and paying one penny for each.
Having arranged all your business at Quebec, you will proceed
without loss of time to Montral, by steam-boat, on your route to
Upper Canada. Two steam-boats ply daily to Montreal, 180 miles
up the St. Lawrence, which is performed in 24 or 30 hours. The
fare for deck passengers, is 7s. 6d for adults; children under
12 years pay half price, and under 7 one third. These steam boats
belong to private individuals. Government is in no manner
connected with them. At Montreal you will find a government
agent, who will advise you should you require it.
Routes to the principal places in UPPER CANADA, as follows:-
Quebec to Montreal, by steam boats, 7s. 6d. cost
Montreal to Prescott, by Durham boats, 6s. 3d.
Prescott to Kingston, by steam, 5s. 0d.
Ditto to Cobourg or Port Hope, 7s. 6d.
Prescott to York, Capital of Upper Canada,
Hamilton, and Niagara 10s.
From Niagara, you proceed by land to Fort Erie, opposite
Buffalo on Lake Erie, where steam-boats, or sailing schooners,
will convey those destined to Port Talbot, or other parts of the
London districts, or vicinty of Lake St. Clair. Persons going to
settle on the lands of the Canada Company will proceed to York
or Burlington Bay head of lake Ontario.
As most of the preceeding towns and landing places, you will find
government agents. If you are bound to Perth or New Lanark, or
the vicinity, disembark at Prescott; or you may go via By-Town on
the Ottawa. If for the thriving settlements in the Newcastle district,
disembark at Coburgh or Port Hope on lake Ontario. Those going to the
townships of Seymour may proceed from Kingston by the beautiful Bay of
Quinte, to the mouth of the Trent River, from whence a road,
distance 18 miles brings you to Seymour. If proceeding to the Home
or Westhern districts, disembark at York, the Capital of Upper Canada.
Emigrant going any where beyond York, will in general find it their
interest to make it their route. If for the London districts, proceed
by the Niagara frontier, to Lake Erie, and the Talbot Settlement.
If for By-Town, Grenville, Hull, Horton, or other destinations on the
Ottawa River, proceed from Montreal, and Lachine, by the usual conveyances.
Crown lands, of the most fertile quality, are prepared for the reception
of emigrants in many parts of Upper Canada, and will be sold, payable
by installments. The following offices have been opened by the
Commisssioners of Crown Lands in Upper Canada, for the convenience of
Emigrants:-
In the Bathurst District, Mr. McNaughton will open his office at By-Town.
Major Campbell, of the Township of Seymour, for the Midland District.
Mr. Ritchie for the Home District, and will reside in Sunnidale.
Mr. Mount, Deputy-Surveyor, for the Western District, between
Carradoc and St. Clair.
Emigrants may obtain employment for two or three months, on the roads,
in several Townships, in the Western and Home Districts of Upper Canada.
Routes to the principal settlements Lower Canada, are as follows:-
District of Quebec, south side of the river St. Lawrence.
Township of Frampton, 88 mile from Quebec by Point Levy, a thriving
settlement inhabitants mostly Irish.
Townships lying contiguous to the Kennebec road beyond Frampton, offer
good prospects for settlement. The lands are principally private
property. The Seigniory of St. Giles, 80 miles from Quebec, by
St. Nicholas and the Craig's road, is favourably situated for
emigrants, from its contiguity to the capital, and is increasing
rapidly; its population is principally Irish.
New Argyle, in the seigniory of St. Croix, 8 miles from Richardson's Tavern,
on the Craig's road in St. Giles, and 38 miles from Quebec; the new road
to the Township of Inverness passes through this settlement. Inhabitants
principally highlanders from the Island of Islay, and Irish. The
lands in this part are of good quality.
The settlements of Ulster, Yorkshire, Dublin and New Hamilton, commence
four miles beyond New Argyle, and 42 miles from Quebec, and are situated
in the flourishing Township of Inverness through which a new road has been
nearly finished to the borders of the Township of Halifax. The inhabitants
of Inverness are from various parts of the United Kingdom. Those from
England are principally from Yorkshire; those from Ireland, mostly from
the northern counties; and those from Scotland are chiefly Highlanders
from the Island of Arran. Beyond Inverness lie the Townships of Halifax,
Chester, and Tingwick, good lands for settlement; but at present there is
no convenient road to them. The Township of Athabaska joins Inverness,
and is a desireable place for settlement.
The Township of Leeds through which Craig's road passes, lies
to the left of Inverness, is 50 miles from Quebec, and is increasing
rapidly in population. Inhabitants Scotch, Irish, and English.
The Township of New Ireland, through which Craig's road also passes,
lies beyond Leeds, 80 miles from Quebec, and is increasing much in
population. The inhabitants are principally Irish and a number of
English of the Wesleyan connexion, also about 25 American families
from the United States.
Craig's road leads to Shipton and Dudswell, but is impasable for
wheel-carriage transport beyond Ireland.
From the Market-slip, in the Lower Town of Quebec, ferry-boats go
daily as the tide suits to St. Nicholas, 12 miles up the river on
the south side, where Craig's road begins.
Eastern Townships of Lower Canada. The present route is via Three Rivers,
90 miles above Quebee, by steam boat, here cross the St. Lawrence to
the soutb shore and proceed to Sherbrooke, by Nicolet, La Baie, and
Drummondville; or you may proceed to Sorrel 40 miles above Three Rivers,
on the south side of the St. Lawrence, and there disembark. The rate
of passage from Quebec by the steam-boat will be about the same as to
stop at Three Rivers, and you will avoid the ferry. A good road leads
from Sorrel to Sherbrook, by Yamaska and Drummondville. The distance
from Quebec to to Sherbrook in a straight line by the new road to
Inverness, when finished, is 99 miles, and by Three Rivers or Sorrel;
the route to be taken for transport is 160 of which 70 is land carriage.
Sherbrooke is the capital of the eastern Townships, and is surrounded
by thriving settlements, particularly Stanstead, where industrious farming
labourers or mechanics are much wanted, and are sure (by good conduct)
to do well; as also the Townships of Stanbridge, Brome, Dunham, Pottan,
and the seigniory of St. Armand, the route to which is by St. John's.
Chambly is 40 miles from Sorrel, and 18 from Montreal. Labourers may
get employment at the canal now making at Chambly, Chateauguay,
Godmanchester, and Sherington, from 25 to 40 miles from Montreal,
south side of the St. Lawrence, are thriving situations.
North side of the river St. Lawrence, and in the district and vicinity
of Quebec, are the settlements of Beauport, Stonenam, Tewksbury, Valcartier,
and Jacques Cartier, Deschambault, and the settlement of Portneuf.
Inhabitants principally Irish.
Three Rivers and its vicinity, 90 miles from Quebec, give employment
to many emigrants. In the rere of Berthier, 130 miles above Quebec,
are the Townships of Brandon, Kilkenny, Rawdon and Kildare.
New Glasgow settlement, in the seigniory of Terrebonne is about 30 miles
from Montreal. Persons bound for the Townships bordering on the Ottawa
river, particularly Lochaber, Templeton, Hull, &c. will take their route
and departure from Montreal. There are many desireable situations for
settlement belonging to private individuals in Upper and Lower Canada.
The names of the proprietors or the agents may be had on application
at this office.
It is particularly recommended to emigrants to be exceedingly cautious
in ascertaining the titles to such lands as they may settle on.
Recommendation for lands to the respective Township agents and
superintendents, of settlements in Upper and Lower Canada, with
routes, &c. will be furnished to emigrants (gratis).
A. C. Buchanan, Chief Agent.
Emigrant Department,
Quebec, 1st May, 1832.
FOR THE INFORMATION OF EMIGRANTS.
Office of His Majesties Chief Agent for the Superintendence
of Emigrants in Upper and Lower Canada.
Quebec, 1st June, 1832.
EMIGRANTS arriving at Quebec from the United Kingdom, and who are
desirous of settling in Upper Canada or Lower Canada, or of obtaining
employment, are informed that all necessary information for their
guidance may be obtained (gratis) on application at this office,
between the hours of 10 and 3 o'clock daily, Sundays excepted.
The principal situations in Upper Canada, where arrangements are
made for locating emigrants, are in the Bathurst, Newcastle,
Home, and Western Districts,
Indigent emigrants, on condition of actual settlement, may
obtain a location on the following terms, viz.
Fifty acres of land will be allotted to each head of a family,
upon condition of paying at the rate of 5s. currency per acre.
The first payment to be made at the expiration of three years,
and the whole to be paid by annual instalments of £3. 2s. 6d. each,
with interest, to commence from the expiration of three years.
The government will incur the expense of building a small log house
for the temporary accommodation of settler on their respective locations,
and will afford some assistance towards opening roads to the lands
proposed to be settled, but will make no advances in provisions or
utensils, and the settlers must depend entirely upon their own resoures
for bringing their lands into cultivation.
Settlers with means will have opportunities of purchasing Crown Lands
in several parts of the province at the public sales, due notice of which
may be obtained on application at the Commissioner of Crown Lands' office,
York, or to the following government agents:-
Ottawa and Bathurst District Mr. McNaughton, at Bytown
Newcastle District Mr. McDouall, Peterboro
Home District Mr. Ritchie, Township of Medonto
Western District Mr. Mount, Carrodoc and St. Clair
A. C. Buchanan, Chief Agent.
Bill Martin, Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada.
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