Benjamin Crow began his trek to California from Missouri in 1853.  He may have heard about the new Sonora Pass trail, which had been blazed the previous year, somewhere out on the Oregon-California Trail.  The trail was hailed as a cleared wagon road, but it turned out to be only a blazed trail and the wagon trains had much difficulty making it through the pass.  

The monument pictured above was erected in 1985.  To read the monument's text click on the image.

The following excerpts from "Chispa" (the quarterly publication of the Tuolumne County Historical Society) will give you a good idea of what it was like the summer and fall of 1853 on the Sonora Pass and the events that led to the opening of the trail.  We would like to thank Carlo M. De Ferrari, Editor of Chispa, for granting permission to reprint portions of the January - March, 1982  Vol. 21, No. 3 edition of Chispa.  We would also like to thank Richard Camareno, Sonora Museum supervisor, for his assistance. 

"Chispa" is a word of Spanish origin which enjoys a special association with the history of the Sonora area.  Although it had a variety of meanings, ranging from "sparks" or "embers" to "cleverness" or "wit," locally it acquired an additional colloquial meaning as it was also used to describe any nugget or specimen of gold and particularly one of great beauty or high radiance.

The term was introduced to the diggings of Tuolumne County by pioneer miners from the State of Sonora, Mexico, and was quickly adopted into the vocabulary of the many nationalities who mined there.

THE PRESS and the SONORA PASS

News of the great overland immigration to Tuolumne County over the Sonora Pass in the autumn of 1853 as reported in the columns of contemporary newspapers.

The Sonora Pass route, now commonly known as the "Old Emigrant Trail," was opened in the late summer of 1852 by a wagon train generally referred to as the "Clark-Skidmore Company."

It was the only group to come through that year, and arrived as the result of an effort by the residents of Columbia to open a new trans-Sierra wagon road and encourage the immigration of settlers who would potentially form a solid agricultural class and establish a permanent basis for prosperity in Tuolumne County.

The following year the citizens of Sonora took over the lead in opening the proposed road.  Several prominent residents, including the city's mayor, George Washington Patrick, had sent for their families to come overland and join them in California, and they planned to cross the mountains to meet them enroute at the Carson Valley.  At the same time they volunteered to also encourage other wagon trains to enter by the new road.

They were far more successful than expected, and as a result several thousand immigrants with wagons, pack mules, horses and cattle all turned from the other established trans-Sierra routes and headed south for the Sonora Pass.

It had been represented to them as a "good road" which was not only shorter than the others, but also one which could be traveled with ease; but when they got to the eastern edge of the mountains, at the upper end of today's Leavitt's Meadow, they found that the route consisted only of blazes on trees to guide them, and in places was blocked by great stones and criss-crossed with fallen trees which sometimes required days of work to clear.

Many of the immigrants were furious with Mayor Patrick, and once some of them proposed that he be lynched; but by then the mayor and his family were through the mountains and safely in the foothills; however, Mayor Patrick personally paid a bitter price for any misrepresentation he may have made, for one of his children died while on the journey and a second passed away shortly after reaching Sonora.

The immigration was surprisingly well covered by the press considering the isolation and distance involved.  One of the reporters who observed the mass migration was Charles H. Chamberlain who went to Relief Valley where supplies were available for those who required them.  Chamberlain frequently wrote letters to the San Joaquin Republican under the nom de plume of "Mountaineer."

It should be noted that only destitute companies were furnished with enough food to get them out of the mountains; others who had money or other valuable assets were required to pay.

After 1853 very few other immigrants came over the new route, and by 1855 it was used only by parties of hunters or prospectors, for the expense of opening the trail to the status of a dependable wagon road was far beyond the financial resources of the people of Tuolumne County.
Chispas Editor

San Francisco Herald - June 15, 1853

Letter from the Southern Mines dated Sonora, June 11, 1853

A large meeting of all classes of citizens was held this evening in this city, for the purpose of making definite arrangements for the opening of the new emigrant route via Walker's river, into this County.  A committee of nine, composed of the first citizens, was appointed to collect moneys, employ engineers to survey the route, and to otherwise aid in the project.  The proposed route is said to be 150 miles shorter than any other now traveled, and by it the much dreaded desert is altogether avoided.

San Joaquin Republican - July 2, 1853

The citizens of Sonora have subscribed $1400 towards the expense of opening the new emigrant route via Walker's river.

San Joaquin Republican - September 17, 1853

Arrivals - There have been numerous arrivals the past week.  Mr. Bell returned to this city yesterday.  He says "an almighty sight of cattle" is on the plains.  Large numbers of emigrants are coming by the Volcano route into the San Joaquin valley, and a large many by the new Walker's pass to Sonora.

Daily Alta California - October 3, 1853

The Emigrants are Coming.

Last Saturday the following letter from Mayor Patrick was received by Roland's Express:

Camp on Carson's River, Sept. 27th, 1853 
TO THE CITIZENS OF SONORA:  I am thus far on my return to Sonora.  The route from here to our city is thronged with emigrants.  Provisions here are high - Bacon 75; flour 60 to 65, and all scarce.  Many trains behind that will come to Sonora.   I ask nothing for myself, as I send forward to Sonora for provisions for my own train.  But as I have made known the route to quite a number of emigrants, I hope the citizens of our city will now take an interest in sending forward provisions to meet the wants of those that are making their way thither.  I would suggest that a load of provisions be forwarded to Relief Camp, under charge of some person that will not extort the last cent from the poor emigrant.
Your obedient servant,
G. WASHINGTON PATRICK

Immediately upon the receipt of this letter, the Committee appointed some time since in reference to the new emigrant road, called a meeting, and dispatched twenty mules loaded with flour, bacon, rice, potatoes, onions, coffee, tea and sugar, amounting in all to $650, which were bought with the funds previously collected by the committee.   This train was placed under the superintendency of Capt. McFall, who have proceeded to Fog Valley, on Walker's river, there to remain until the last train has passed, and to supply the wants of those in distress.  During the past week about 25 wagons, 100 persons, and 1000 head of cattle, besides horses and mules have arrived.  Mr. Crow brings with him a buffalo calf about six months old, and about three feet high.

All parties coincide in describing the route as abounding in water and grass of a luxuriant growth, But they say the summit of the Pass requires considerable work on both sides.  The impediments to wagon-travel consist mainly of large loose stones and fallen timber, which should be removed.

In the trains which have already arrived, as well as in those still behind, there is a good proportion of women and children.  The women are not all wives.  Among the sisters and daughters can be found attractions that will save not a few of our young men the expense of a trip to the Atlantic States.

Roland's Express, bearing the letter from Mayor Patrick, passed a lone woman on the first mountain this side of the summit.  We copy the following memorandum from his book: "She had a large bundle on her back, packing it along, and she said that Mr. Brown and Chamberlain had drove her off at the Lake, and she was footing it alone."  The cause of her disagreement with her companions, and the treatment she received from them, will no doubt be properly investigated ere long.  Whether in the wrong or not, no one can deny that she possesses an independent, go ahead spirit, and that in this particular she is decidedly Californian.

The following is a list of the various trains on the road, as furnished by Roland's Express.  They number, as will be seen, 485 persons, 135 wagons, 3114 cattle, besides horses and mules, and certain trains of which the particulars are not furnished.

On another leaf of the memorandum book we find the following:   "Left Boyer & Bennett on the 19th inst, on Carson river, 8 wagons, 56 souls, 325 cattle; provisions scarce; cattle dying very fast."

San Joaquin Republican - October 4, 1853

FROM THE SIERRA NEVADA - WALKER'S ROUTE

Relief Camp, Sept. 29, 1853
Sir:  Having a few moments to spare, I will give you a few items of news from this out-of-the-way place.  This valley is situated within the Sierra Nevada, about sixty miles from Sonora, and probably the same distance from Walker's River valley.   Contrary to expectation, there are quite a number of emigrants coming through this route this season.  It was represented that a great deal of money had been expended upon the road, and that it was good the whole distance; while, in fact, there has been nothing done, except to blaze trees.  Consequently the emigrants have been delayed so as to exhaust their provisions.  The citizens of Sonora sent out timely relief; as it is, all will get through without much injury.  A large number of women and children and a great many cattle are on the road.   There was some loss of stock upon the Humboldt.  Wash. Trahern and R. Winters are within five days travel of this place. with 600 head of cattle.  Mr. Richardson is one day behind them with about 200 head of cattle.  A train from Jefferson county, Ohio, passed through here on yesterday.

It is very unfortunate this route has not been completed.  I have talked with several intelligent gentlemen, who are of the opinion that five or six thousand dollars expended on this road, would render it the best as well as the nearest road to California.  Four men actually walked and carried their blankets and provisions, from Carson's river to Sonora, in five and one half days.   This is a fact, and certainly shows that this must be the nearest route; and if the road was in order, a team might make as good time.  I must close as Toleman's Relief Pack train is about leaving.
S/Mountaineer

San Joaquin Republican - October 11, 1853

Sonora, Oct. 6th, 1853
Sir:  Having just returned from a trip out with the emigrant train, I write you a few lines.

The emigration upon the Walker's River Route is much larger than was expected, and most of them are making longer time than they calculated upon; consequently many of the teams are running short of provisions.  The Sonora Relief committee sent out about four thousand pounds, and since that there has been sent out about double that amount by private individuals, which, with what is now on the way out, is supposed to be more than sufficient for their wants.  Many trains have arrived upon this side of the mountains and are recruiting their stock upon the luxuriant vallies of the Tuolumne and Stanislaus rivers, from one to three days journey above this place.  In this they act wisely, as here is the best feed to be found in California, it not in the world; green and rank, and not used at all until the incoming emigration turned their stock upon it.

B. Kroh (webmasters believe this to be Ben Crow) is there with a large herd of cattle; also, a man named Doherty.  Mr. Hewit, from Ohio, is also there, and several other large trains.  Wash. Trahern and R. Winters, I left near Relief Camp yesterday; their cattle are in fine order.  Capt. Patrick is also at Relief camp.   His family are all sick, and he is resting there for a day or two.  W. Richards was also there and some five or six other trains.  Dr. Turner is within a few miles of this place.

About the route, we hear as many different accounts as we see people; one intelligent man told me that his stock has improved in flesh since he left Carson river. The most that any complain of is their cattle being foot sore, and they almost to a man agree that with a few thousand dollars expense, this could be made the best route in California, as it undoubtedly now is the best route for stock.

There are large numbers of women with the trains, and as Dow jr. says, "it is enough to start tears from the eyes of a baked potatoe as to see a white woman walking bare foot with a child in her arms."  There have been several births upon the road, two, at least, here in the Sierra Nevada.

A few night since they had a ball at Relief camp, sixteen ladies upon the floor, (excuse me) ground, at the same time, and a lively time they had of it.  What was lacking in toilet they made up in good nature.
Yours,
S/Mountaineer

San Joaquin Republican - November 1, 1853

The Sonora Herald calls the new Walker's river route the Sonora Pass.  This is but fair, for it has been only by the exertions and liberal subscriptions of her citizens that it has been made available.   Mr. Mace Douglass who has been stationed at Relief Camp, under the summit, on this side of the Sierra Nevada, since the 25th of September, informs us that since that time 475 wagons, 1900 souls, and 15,000 head of cattle have passed.  Many had passed before he arrived there.  He left on Thursday, the 20th of October, at which time it was snowing, and probably now the mountains are covered with snow.  The last emigrant train had passed before he left, so that there will be no suffering on this route.

San Joaquin Republican - November 5, 1853

SONORA PASS OR WALKER'S RIVER ROUTE

Sir:  An error has got into some of the papers in regard to the number of people who came in upon this route during the present season.  The Sonora Herald says, that from the 25th of Sept., there passed through Relief Valley, 475 wagons, 1909 souls, and 15,000 head of cattle; and this is taken by many as the actual number who came through that route the present season; while the facts in the case are, that full one-fourth of the immigration had passed through before Mr. Douglass arrived at the valley, which being the case, would make the whole number of wagons 593, the number of souls 2375, and the number of cattle 18,750.  This estimate can be relied upon as being a true account of the emigration upon this route.

Nearly twenty-five hundred people have arrived in the heart of the southern country in the short space of six months; a few of them have passed through to San Jose Valley, but the most have settled or are about settling in the Valley of the San Joaquin.

When we consider the character of this great body of people - men who have their wives, their children, their horses, oxen, cows, and in some instances even pigs and chickens, with their farming utensils, prepared to turn up our rich lands - who can estimate the benefit it will be to this part of the State.  They, as a general thing, are no mere adventurers, who are bent upon making a little and then returning to the old States.  No; they are men who have taken everything with them which they hold dear upon earth; and, the question first asked by nine-tenths of them was, where could be found a good farm?  The men are such as have been used to handle the plough and scythe; and the women are well acquainted with the use of the butter churn and cheese press; people who are neither ashamed nor afraid to labor.  The effect will not immediately be seen, but next summer when fresh California butter and new Yankee cheese will be found in every house in Stockton, and in many of the villages through the mountains, then will begin to be felt the advantages which will arise from the accession of this kind of people.  This is the first emigration upon this route; shall it be the last?

This is a question of great importance, and it should be kept before the people, that some means may early be taken to put this route in order.  The question is not, can a road be built? but, shall it be done?  There is more grass upon this route than upon any other, and for people coming to this part of the country, it is from 150-200 miles the nearest.  All it wants is the expenditure of a few thousand dollars, which judiciously laid out, would make it as good as any other Pass through the Sierra Nevada; and from its situation, Stockton must be more benefited by the opening of this route than any other place.  Every one knows that nothing helps a city like a well settled back country.
S/Mountaineer

For more information on Tuolumne County, visit:  www.tchistory.org.