© Richard Palmer and Shirley Farone, December 8, 2003
INDEX
To
ARTICLES ABOUT THE STAGES (STAGECOACHES)
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1 |
undated |
Richard Palmer |
"How travelers once got to Auburn by 'stages' " |
2 |
undated |
Richard Palmer |
"North Syracuse was really called Podunk" |
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3 |
undated |
Onondaga Historical Association |
“Old Coaching Days” |
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4 |
February 11, 1824 |
Onondaga Gazette |
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5 |
January 19, 1839 |
Ontario County Clerk Records |
"Articles of Association" |
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5-a |
July 20, 1865 |
Boonville Herald |
Arrival of Dignitaries |
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6 |
February 18, 1870 |
Watertown Daily Times |
"Staging in Winter or Light |
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8 |
August 18, 1892 |
Boonville Herald |
"Reminiscent" |
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9 |
March 23, 1938 |
Lowville Journal & Republican |
"Motor Trucks and Autos Replace Boats |
"HOW TRAVELERS ONCE GOT TO AUBURN BY 'STAGES' "
by Richard Palmer
In December, 1837, the newly-completed Auburn & Syracuse Railroad, which passed through the towns of Geddes, Camillus and Elbridge, contracted with Col. John M. Sherwood of Auburn to operate the line using his horses and altered stagecoaches until such time as the company could afford to purchase locomotives.
At the time, scrap iron was also unavailable, so locomotive operation would have been impractical on the plain wooden rails that had been laid. Sherwood was one of the major partners in a consortium loosely called the "Old Line Mail," which had controlled public land transportation between Albany and Buffalo and had the mail contracts since about 1800.
According to Thomas Y. How, Jr., treasurer, as recorded in the company letter book, the directors had decided it was in their interest to contract with Sherwood and also secure his business rather than compete against him. This arrangement lasted for about 14 months until locomotives were purchased from Rogers Locomotive Works of Patterson, N.J.
Following is an account of a ride in one of the horsecar trains from James S. Buckingham's "Travels in the Eastern and Western States of America," published in London in 1842. The author and his party had traveled by canal packet to Utica, and then by stagecoach to Syracuse. He noted that the journey from Utica to Syracuse, a little more than 50 miles, took eight hours, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., or an average of 6 1/4 miles per hour.
"On the following morning, Thursday, August 9th (1838), we left Syracuse in a coach that conveyed us to a rail-way, beginning at a distance of 3 or 4 miles from the town, to take us to Auburn; but great was our disappointment at finding, that instead of a locomotive engine, the cars were drawn by horses, of which there were only two, to draw about 20 passengers, the horses being placed one before the other, as tandems are driven, and not abreast.
"The rails, too, were of wood instead of iron, and the rate of travelling was estimated to be about six miles an hour. We had to wait half an hour before starting, and our progress was then so tedious that we all thought of getting out to walk the distance, as the most expeditious mode of the two. To add to our mortification, we met a train of cars drawn by a single horse coming right against us, and, the rails being single, and the places for turning off being wide apart, we had to shift our tandem pair from the front to the hind part of the train, and be drawn back about a mile and a half to get off the track, and let our advancing rival go past us.
"After a very tedious ride of four hours in performing 22 miles, we reached Auburn, the entrance to which was by the great State Prison, and the other public buildings, which gave it a very striking appearance."
Back to IndexThe ensuing article appears to have been written recently by Richard Palmer. (December, 2003)
North Syracuse was really called Podunk by Richard Palmer Tradition has it that North Syracuse was successively called Podunk and Centerville before taking on its present name. Although many have dismissed as folklore, new uncovered evidence substantiates the fact that Podunk was its original name. During the summer of 1847, David Lum and his family of New York City toured this region using a variety of public transportation including trains, packet boats and stagecoaches. One of their tours was from Syracuse to Oswego on a canal packet, across Lake Ontario and down the St. Lawrence River to Ogdensburg, then returning overland by stagecoach. Finally arriving back in Syracuse, Lum, on July 19, 1847, wrote a letter describing his adventure to the North Country which was published in the Syracuse Daily Star the following day. He wrote: "From Watertown I took the stage to this place, being desirous to see the interior of the country and to ride on the Plank Road. At Richland, in Oswego county, we were regaled with salmon for dinner - a species of fish, I am told very abundant there, and forming the chief article of commerce of the place. "We struck the Plank Road at Brewerton, close by the outlet of Oneida Lake, and I was delighted with this novel and most excellent species of road. The road is made by moderately leveling the of the intended road, then laying down sleepers length-wise and crossing them with thick plank, so that you have all the smoothness of a railroad. "Travelers upon it are perfectly delighted with it, I am told - except when they come to the gate and have to pay toll - they grumble then. I stopped for the night at the village of Podunk some seven miles from Syracuse, and put up at the Podunk Hotel. "This village has taken a new start since the opening of the Plank Road, and bids fair to become a large place. Its steam saw mill an shops produce lumber and salt barrels in abundance, and I noticed a goodly number of stores, groceries and meat shops. "I was informed that a large number of building lots, had lately been laid out adjacent to the village, forming quite a little town, and called ‘Stearne's Addition to Podunk' - a safe indication of the thriving
character of the place. "In the morning of my departure, the landlord handed me his bill. I was a little surprised at it, for I supposed that gentlemen of the quill went scot free - at least, landlords so far had politely waived any payment from me. The honor and the notice of the House balancing the eating and sleeping. However, I considered that the Plank Road had lately been opened, and mine host, somewhat ignorant of the modern improvements in these matters, so I paid his demand, and left for Syracuse, where I committed myself to the hospitality, and luxuries of my friend Capt. Cody of the Empire House."
The Genesee Pike
Syracuse Herald, Sept. 1, 1886
Reminiscences of One of the Three Surviving First Stage Drivers.
A Racy Story of Early Travel
Recollections of Marcy, General Scott, Fanny Kemble, Humphrey and Other
Famous Passengers.
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Norman Maxon, who was a driver on the ‘Old Sherwood Stage Line’ which began operations in this county in 1809, is still living at his home in Elbridge. His funny or anecdote and humorous stories makes him a much sought-for companion in that village. To a Herald reporter he gave the following account of his experience on the road:
‘I began driving in 1828 and the only old drivers known to be living beside myself are, Consider Carter, who lives in Chicago, and George Brown of Danforth. Col. John M. Sherwood controlled that part of the line from Manlius and Fayetteville to Geneva. It was divided into three sections. Eastward from Auburn one line ran through Skaneateles, Marcellus and Onondaga Hill to Manlius. Another went over the Seneca Turnpike through the villages of Elbridge, Geddes and Syracuse to Fayetteville.
‘That part of the road between Auburn and Geneva comprised the third section. It would be impossible now for me to tell you the exact number of teams that were employed on the line, but I think 80 would be near the figures. At that time the stages ran through from Albany, the horses only being changed. The teams and their drivers were in the rounds, that is, ‘first in, first out.’ For instance, a coach came into Fayetteville. My team had been in the stable longest, I would hitch on and drive it to Syracuse, where another team would take it and go on to Camillus.
‘When it came my turn I would follow to Camillus and then in order to Elbridge and lastly to Auburn, where I would turn. On the down trip stops were made at the same changing places until I got to Fayetteville, where Parker and Faxton’s teams met ours. The same method was pursued on the Genesee Turnpike and between Auburn and Geneva. The advantage of such a course was it gave the horses shorter drives and saved passengers the delay which would result in stopping to feed.
‘The Eway-bill,’ which every driver carried, was another feature of the road. If a person in Auburn was going to Albany he would go to the stage office in that village and the agent would register on it by the agent of the station where the passenger took passage. By such a system the driver was saved the trouble of handling the fares. We carried the mail, too, and the distribution was done at each post office along the route except the through mails. Very few newspapers were carried, as people had not got to reading them. I think we would bring about five into Elbridge, one of them going to the hotel and the other four supplying the town with its weekly reading matter.
‘To give you an idea of the circulation of the secular press, I will speak of the number that supplied the country from Syracuse to Christian Hollow, three miles below Cardiff. On publication day I have been in Lewis H. Redfield’s office and seen him put up the papers for the above-mentioned territory. I could put my two hands around the entire list. Colonel Sherwood had the contracts for carrying the mails over a large section of Central New York, but he relet them all except over the main stage lines. Assistant Postmaster General Porter rode with me once. He gave Colonel Sherwood the credit of being the best stage proprietor in the United States so far as prompt deliver of mails was concerned. And doubtless the compliment was merited by the old gentleman, for he took great pride in having his stages run on time and always kept good horses for that purpose.
‘The first stage on the Seneca Turnpike was nothing but a two-horse wagon, and Consider Carter ran it for Isaac Sherwood, (the colonel’s father who started the business) in 1820. Carter is yet living, being more than 90 years old, and has been seen by Charles Briggs of Auburn within a short time.
‘Sherwood ran lateral lines of stages to Weedsport, Lyons and Montezuma. But there was no money in these side lines and they were continually changing hands. I spent two summers and one winter on the Genesee Turnpike, and that would bring me into Skaneateles. Colonel Sherwood lived there and a noble old fellow he was. He weighed 410 pounds and on account of his fleshiness was a careful eater. He had a fondness for crackers, and several times a day he would eat one or two and then wash them down with a swallow of rum. And his rum was no common stuff, but would come in cases which he kept in the cellar. Myself and another driver would go down and get a case, drink the rum and fill the bottles with water and return the case to the cellar. We congratulated ourselves on our shrewdness in evading detection, but the old Colonel was onto us from the start and enjoyed the joke as well as we did.
‘I went to the funeral of the first white child born in this county. It was Colonel Phillips’s wife, the daughter of Aaa Danforth. The Phillips family lived on the corner where the Vanderbilt House now stands. The house, I think, was used afterwards as a coffee house and kept by the Cooks. Mrs. Phillips was buried in a little graveyard that stood off the canal not far from the present site of Greenway's brewery. After the death of his wife the old Colonel would not enter his house for more than three months unless I was with him. I was well acquainted with him because he was the Syracuse agent for the stage company.
‘While I was in Syracuse, William H. Marcy would come to our office and hire a team and driver to take him to General Mann’s. I took him the first time he went. He would always ask for me after that. I had a fine gray team and it became a great favorite of his. General Winfield Scott went up the line with me once. He was on his way to Fort Erie, and wore a military cloak and cap. When he got out at Elbridge he made me think of a pair of tongs he was so tall and thin, but afterward he fleshed up.
‘Another time I had Fanny Kemble, the English actress, as a passenger. She was a vivacious woman and full of fun. There was a young Southerner coming up at the same time, and he as fuming because he could not stop over at Syracuse and get breakfast at the Syracuse House. It was fun for the English woman to hear the young snob take on. She took breakfast at Elbridge, and years afterwards someone brought me a paper containing an article which she had written and in it was an account of that meal at Elbridge. She spoke in very complimentary terms of my wife, who had prepared the meal for her.
‘Enos T. Throop would occasionally take passage with me, but I was never anxious to have him in my stage. He was a very selfish person and had no regard for the comforts of others. One morning I was called up to take him to Weedsport to catch the packet. It was late in the fall and the day was cold and stormy. It was the last packet east that season and he was anxious to get it.
‘That is what he said at the stage office when he ordered the turnout the night before. His home was near the foot of the lake, but he stayed in Auburn that night with his brother George. I was at the house at the time agreed upon, but Throop was not ready. He sent out word that he was eating his breakfast. It was a full hour before he got outside. We began quarreling before we got outside of the village, and kept it up until we reached Weedsport. We got there just as the packet drew up to the dock.
‘Frank Granger was a constant traveler and was very popular with the boys. The spring succeeding the fall he ran for Governor on the anti-Mason ticket I had him as a passenger. My trip took me to Camillus, and from there into Syracuse. Jess Williams drove the stage. It was a raw day, and Frank got chilled before reaching there. When he got out of the stage he lectured Jess about the poor run from Camillus. Williams replied: ŒSay (sic), Mass Granger, I guess I’ve made as good a run as you did last fall when you run for anti-Mason governor.’ Granger was so pleased with the report that he gave Williams a new buffalo robe which he had with him. Williams told the story on his return, and when Granger got back he told it to a party of friends.
‘One other person deserves some notice - that of Humphrey, the bank runner. At that time the system of banking by checks and drafts was not in vogue. Merchants would go to New York to buy goods, taking the money with them for payment. They would take bank bills in preference to coin because of the convenience of carrying them. After the merchants from the interior had got through trading and returned home the New York banks would collect all the Western bank bills and start out Humphrey to have them redeemed.
‘He was always accompanied by a guard, and both men were armed. On the up trip Humphrey would call at each bank and present such bills as had been issued by that particular bank. If the bank had Eastern bank bills he would accept them in exchange, but if not, specie would be paid. The money would then be deposited for safe keeping until the return trip from the West, when the deposits would be collected. Very few, if any, of the banks would have sufficient paper money to redeem their bills, and the consequence would be that Humphrey would accumulate a large quantity of gold and silver. I recollect once of going out of Syracuse with a four-horse team, purposely to carry Humphrey and his money. I think he said he had $60,000 with him.
`‘The money usually was put into trunks and the trunks thrown into the boot under the driver’s feet. Crosby, the guide, always rode on the seat while Humphrey rode inside. I gave Humphrey a good scare once just east of Syracuse. It was on a trip out and the trunks were in the boot as usual. Crosby and myself were on the seat and Humphrey inside asleep.
‘It was a pleasant day in winter time and the thaw had made the roads slippery. I was driving at a brisk trot and a sudden turn in the road sent the sleigh over on its side, throwing out the trunks. Humphrey was dozing at the time, but the way he crawled out of the stage was amusing. The sudden awakening and the idea of robbery, which probably always haunted him, doubtless was the incentive to his quick movement.
‘About the time the agitation concerning the old United States Bank was at its height, Nicholas Biddle, the president of the concern, came down over the line from Niagara Falls, then the great summer resort of the country. He was in great haste to get east and Colonel Sherwood called on me to take him from Auburn to Elbridge. His instructions were to make the trip in forty minutes, the usual time being one hour and fifteen minutes. I did it and it was considered a very creditable feat. It would not be thought much of a drive now with a light wagon, but you must recollect our stages weighed 2,400 pounds.
‘Towards the east the Seneca turnpike got to be the favorite thoroughfare, because it ran through a leveler country than did the Genesee. Another thing that contributed to make it popular was that it led through Syracuse.
‘The old line stage barns stood on the ground afterward occupied by he old New York Central depot on Vanderbilt Square. The Presbyterian Church on the green south of the barns, and Jake Hosenpratt’s farm house still further out, were the only buildings on that side of the road until you got outside what is now the corporate limits of Syracuse.
‘To give you an idea of the value of land in the village then I will refer to a land purchase by Landlord Comstock of the Syracuse House. He bought 10 acres about forty rods east of the hotel and paid $1,000 for it. The price was the town talk for a long time, and Comstock was classed as a fool for paying such a price for the land. People said it would never be good for anything except as a cow pasture. The deal made him the laughing stock of the town for a long time.
‘But Salina! It was worth a man’s life to get out of there. Saltpointers had an especial dislike for the residents of Syracuse. Why they did I never knew. I speak from personal knowledge when I say it was not healthful for a Syracusan to be caught in Salina. Dean Richmond was king of the bullies, and he always had a big gang at is beck and call. Fighting in the community was an essential element of their religion. A man was not in good standing in his church unless he would fight. The bigger the bruiser he was the better Christian he was the better Christian he was considered.
‘They were delighted when some outside bully would come in and the poor devil had the pluck to do it would be sure not to repeat the visit. On one occasion they got beat at their own game. A great stalwart Englishman named Rand, who owned a farm near Onondaga Hill, was waylaid one day by the boilers. But he knocked them right and left with his bare fists and ever afterwards he was never molested. Rand was a very powerful man, somewhere about six feet four inches and broad in proportion, with a bony muscular frame.
‘One peculiar thing about the politics of the county was the large Democratic majority. And yet every prominent lawyer in the county was a Whig. I attributed it to the lack of education and intelligence, for all you had to do to make anything popular with the masses was to label it Democracy and it was accepted unquestioned.
‘There was no party that ever existed that compared in ability with the old Whig party. I was at Syracuse when Seward was nominated for Governor, and that night 11 stages and a long string of wagons loaded with members of the convention went to Auburn to call on him.’
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Getting There By Stages
Onondaga Gazette, Syracuse, N.Y., Feb. 11, 1824
In order to inform our distant readers of the public travel through this place, we are informed as a fact, that on Wednesday last, the passengers in the stages passing through this place, amounted to between sixty and seventy, averaging from nine to eleven in each stage. The lines of stages now through this village, consist of the old and new lines from Albany and Utica, east, and from Buffalo and Canandaigua, west; which pass daily. In addition to these, the Cherry Valley Mail Line also passes every day, east or west, Sundays excepted.
Also a new line of stages has recently been established from Sacket’s Harbor to this place, running three times a week. There is not a place in the western district, perhaps, where public travel has increased to such an extent, as through our now flourishing village, and extensive works for the manufacture of coarse salt seems to excite the admiration and elicit the praise of all who view them.
We think we hazard nothing in saying, that, from the peculiar advantages of our village, it must become a place of importance worthy the attention of the enterprising emigrants who wish to locate in a growing place of business; and particularly inviting to honest and industrious mechanics.
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Book D, Miscellaneous Records, Page 183-4, Ontario County Clerk, Recorded
January 19th, 1839
Articles of Association
Stage Drivers Library and Reading Room Association
Article 1. We the undersigned Stage Drivers of the Village of Canandaigua hereby form ourselves into a society to be known and distinguished by the appellation of The Canandaigua Stage Drivers Library and Reading-Room Association and bind ourselves individually to pay the sum of 12 1/2 cents per month to the President of Said Association which said monies are to be expended from time to time as said President shall see fit for the purchase of Books, Periodicals, &c. for the benefit of the association.
Article 2. No member of this Association or any other person shall have the privilege of removing any book, periodical or other property of this Association from the room in which said books &c are kept.
Article 3. The officers of this Association shall be a president, vice president and librarian who shall be elected by ballot, on the first day of January in each year.
Article 4. The President shall perform all the duties usually incumbent on that office and in his absence those duties shall be performed by the Vice-President.
Article 5. Any Stage Driver in Canandaigua may become a member of this Association by subscribing this constitution and complying with the requirements herein contained.
Article 6. This constitution may be amended by vote of two-thirds of the members of the Association.
Canandaigua, January 1st, 1839.
President Stephen B. Austin
Vice President George B. Hotchkiss
Librarian Perry G. Wadhams &c.
Old Coaching Days
(Undated newspaper clipping in files of Onondaga Historical Assn.)
When the Syracuse House Was in Its Glory - Manlius was in a Hustle.
There are very few Syracusans left who remember the old-fashioned Concord coaches that were wont to draw up in front of the Syracuse House during the “Twenties,” when that famous hostelry was the most popular stopping place for travelers between Albany and Buffalo. Syracuse was not a very attractive village in those days, but its central location made it the starting point for innumerable stage coaches going east and west over this great thoroughfare.
The road as it passed through Syracuse followed nearly the same direction as East and West Genesee streets do now. Before the Erie Canal was dug, however, the turnpike ran straight across the space now occupied by the packet dock.
East Genesee street beyond where Fayette Park is now was full of treacherous mud-holes, and with low, swampy land on both sides. For many years a large red post, which marked the eastern limit of the village, stood opposite the present site of the Chemical engine house. The corduroy style of architecture, which consisted of logs laid side by side with a small amount of dirt thrown on top, was usually productive of a great deal of profanity on the part of the drivers, and it frequently happened that the passengers were obliged to dismount while rails were brought from a neighboring fence and the coach wheels pried out of from some unusually deep mud hole. Syracuse real estate was not valuable property in those days. The village cows roamed through the Seventh and Eighth wards unrestrained by fences, and the only objection to this common pasturage was the difficulty in getting the cattle home at night. As late as 1829 the land on the north side of East Genesee and east of Orange street sold for ten dollars an acre.
The ride from Syracuse to Albany was not a pleasure trip, and ladies were seldom seen traveling by stagecoach. The Syracusan who had a business in Albany or New York climbed into one of the many coaches standing in front of the Syracuse House about 9 o’clock in the morning after paying from five to six dollars for his ticket, and proceeded to make himself as comfortable as the narrow quarters would allow. Accident insurance policies were not in vogue then, so the passenger was obliged to assume all risks of injury. The driver was usually a jolly, good-natured individual, a good story-teller, a confirmed tobacco-chewer, and above all a first-rate horseman. Four horses composed the team unless the roads were unusually muddy, when two more were added, and the coach was hauled along at a six-mile-an-hour gait, despite ruts or holes.
The coaches were all of the Concord pattern, with heavy yellow bodies swung upon stout, thorough-braces. A “boot” behind held the mail bags and heavy baggage. A loud blast from the driver’s horn was given as the stagecoach drew up in front of the tavern in Manlius, where dinner was eaten while a fresh team was being hitched up.
Manlius in stagecoaching days was a thrifty, bustling village with several large cotton mills and three rival taverns. From Manlius the route lay through Cazenovia to Nelson Flats, where another fresh team was booked. About forty-eight hours after leaving Syracuse, the passengers would disembark in Albany, lame and stiff from the trip.
Very few stagecoaches ran through the entire distances, and a system of way-bills was used by the different stage owners, who would meet once a month and balance accounts. These way-bills were passed from driver to driver, to be shown to the company’s agents at different points along the road, who would identify each passenger in the coach. All the extra fare that a driver could pick up between the stations was considered lawful plunder.
The coaches which carried the mail were usually considered the most desirable to travel in, as they were required to go through on time, no matter what interfered. Many conscientious people were opposed to the Sunday travel, and an “anti-Sunday” route was established in 1825.* This line was never very successful. When the Erie canal was completed a heavy stone bridge was covered with broad flat stones and was a favorite lounging place for all the village idlers.
The immense amount of travel over the turnpike in its palmy (sic) days was a source of wealth to the many tavern-keepers along the line. These taverns were always well kept, with large, roomy bar-rooms fragrant with tobacco smoke and the perfume of applejack. These were the gathering places of the male members of the community and were sometimes the scene of fierce fights. There is a four corners west of Auburn which formerly had a tavern upon each corner. This crossroad bore for many years the unsavory name of “Hell’s Half Acre.” This has been softened in later years by the omission of the first word.
One of the best known men along the entire road was Col. Phillips, the grandfather of Mrs. Andrew D. White, who was for many years the proprietor of the Syracuse House. He was always on hand to greet the guests as they disembarked, and could always call a former visitor by name.
*The “Pioneer Line.”
Staging in Winter, or Light Reading for Lazy People.
Staging in Winter, or Light Reading for Lazy People.
We take our seat in the stage, bound from Watertown to Clayton, making the sixth passenger inside, a very comfortable number, and when the seventh comes to get in, he is obliged to lower himself gradually between two other passengers, who are seated, until he is conscious of an exact fit. As we jog along, we discuss railroads, politics and religion, till at last the passengers rest their weary minds, and take refuge from ennui, by propounding and receiving answers to conundrums, after the following manner: What kind of hair does a mourner's dog have? Dog's hair of course. Why is a hen like Heaven? Because her son never sets. Why is a moderate sized hill like a lazy dog? Because it is a slow pup (slope up.)
At this point we are interrupted by the driver's opening the door, and asking us to get out and help keep the sleigh in equilibrium, which we do by standing on the rave. This is exactly the same point between Stone Mills and Lafargeville, where, one year ago, we were performing the important operation of keeping the sleigh right side up, by executing, what in salutatory language might be called the "double pigeon wing" on the rave, when we were careless enough to remain too long in position, and, in the language of the immortal "Julius Caesar," "directly afterward we heard something drop;" when we found ourselves in the snow, the sleigh inverted, everything in confusion, and the lady and gentleman inside not heard from. We repeated the beautiful language of Shakespeare, "All the world's a 'stage,' and all the men and women merely players;" fearful in this case that the play would turn out a tragedy, and hearing no sound inside, we sprang on to the covered sleigh, and making an opening about nine by fourteen inches, we peered cautiously in expecting to see the mangled remains of somebody; but to our surprise we beheld the lady, sitting upon the U.S. mail, looking as innocent as Eve, before she offered the apple to Adam.
We politely enquired if she could get out through the orifice we had made. She replied that she was so frightened she could do nothing. Her exit effected, we again peeped through the opening into the stage - there sat the gent, looking just as though he had stolen a sheep. But "All's well that ends well." With properly directed effort, our stage assumed a vertical position, and rejoicing in our deliverance from difficulty, and hopeful for the future, we resumed our journey and prosecuted it to a successful termination without further mishap.
This happened one year ago. Nothing of the kind is to be feared now, as we have careful and experienced drivers, whose good judgment is equaled only by their good nature. In this latter statement we speak especially of our friend Waful.
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Reminiscent.
To the Editor of The Herald - Sir: I recently read in The Herald with natural interest, some reminiscences of early life in Boonville, my own native village. Among its incidents, named by your contributor, was the way in which coin was sometimes carried from Watertown to Utica in boxes which would occasionally appear at the Hulbert hotel (of endearing memory.) Let me tell you of what I myself saw there more than fifty years ago, when the Hulbert hotel in its first installment was the more humble "Jackson's tavern" of which Mr. Jackson was himself the proprietor.
A handsome young fellow, White by name, arrived from the north one evening on the coach as a pioneer of the now great express business, and flung from the driver's seat and (as transcribed ?) "boot" two bags of silver coin to the sidewalk. The bags were made of strong canvas. They were decorated with heavy red seals at their openings, of the regulation sealing-wax pattern of those days. The sounds that were emitted from the bags when they fell from the coach was as suggestive as the fact was astounding that such large sums of the dollar of our lamented daddies should be tossed about in that reckless manner by the handsome young man from Watertown. When Mr. White went to supper leaving the bloated money- bags lying unguarded on the ground with as much actual indifference as though they were so many scraps of old iron, astonishment was turned into something like the marvelous in the surrounding mind. Whether this indifference was due to the avoirdupois of the the thousands of solid dollars in the bags, or to Mr. White's confidence in the integrity of the founders and fathers of Boonville, I leave you to decide.
Motor Trucks and Autos Replace Boats Along For the big ditch that made this town a port is a motor highway, passed each day by more passengers and probably as much freight as the northern branch of the Erie bore before railroads began the slow process of strangling the water way.
If Port Leyden has lost the meaning of its prefix, it has gained a new traffic route to restore it to the main line of travel after years of remote location. More or less it must thank the long-gone canal builders, who pointed the way to the highway engineers. The Black River canal made Leyden a port. Before the ditch was extended into this community on its way to Lyons Falls the place was known as Kelsey's Mills from Eber L. Kelsey, who had acquired the adjacent water power. Kelsey had built here, about 1800, the second mill in Lewis county.
Influence Felt
Long before a shovel of dirt was dug from the line the canal was to take its mere possibility had influenced the settlement. So certain were the hopeful that the canal was coming that Eleazer Spencer prepared for the boom in the final 1830s, staking out
village lots for the future commercial center which then was named Port Leyden. Not until the fall of 1850 was the ditch ready for water and it was not in use to this port until the spring of 1851. Five years were necessary to extend it less than three miles to Lyons Falls. Cheap transportation provided by the canal aided the growth of Port Leyden. The Woolworth tannery, one of the early industries, came under new management and was enlarged in the 50s, to be the biggest of its kind in the whole northern New York. Its
capacity was 40,000 sides of sole leather annually from 162 vats using 3,800 cords of bark. The canal passed through the very center of the village bisecting its main street. Here were the docks where boats tied up to take on or discharge cargo or lie while crews refreshed themselves at the saloons that marked every canal port. Scarcely was it carrying
traffic before agitation for a railroad assured a rival system.
Railroad Built
In 1855, the year canal boats dropped down the locks into Black river at Lyons Falls, the railroad reached Boonville. It was pushed through to Port Leyden immediately on its way
to parallel the canal system through Lowville to Carthage. Tannery and canal followed the Indian into oblivion before the advance of progress. Loss of the tannery perhaps was more serious to the place than the canal, which was superceded in popular use by the railroad. For years the muddy bottom and caved banks of the ditch lay like an open grave through the community, filled with wraiths of the toilers who builded it and put it to use through its brief history. An eyesore of a relic of the past was removed from Port Leyden when the canal bed was filled for the state road that follows the "lower level" from Boonville to Lowville. It put Port Leyden on the traffic map again, banishing the ghosts that had haunted it.
With all its losses in factories and a water way, Port Leyden is not itself a ghost. In 1860. when canal and railroad fought for business, it listed 200 persons. Today it claims 750. Its
knitting mill employs 80 hands and has operated through the depression. The Johnson pulp mill keeps 20 men busy and the Gould paper mill branch employs others. It praises its drinking water and its school and brags that it is "on the railroad." Boonville Herald, Thursday, July 20, 1865
The august presence of certain city worthies, among whom appeared his honor, Mayor Butterfield , M. McQuaide of the Telegraph, J. A. Hall, L. H. Babcock, J. H. Read, J. Griffiths, T. Foster, Jas. Sayre and others, constituting the Common Council of Utica, the President and Directors of the Utica & Black River Railroad, gave us to understand that the project of extending the railroad to Lyons Falls was being revived. The party procured carriages and proceeded to the Falls by way of Port Leyden, and the Telegraph man says they enjoyed themselves hugely as no doubt they did, but we do not learn
that any definite result was reached by the excursion and meeting.
A word about the "Dummy."
Altogether, it was quite a novelty to our citizens and a fine specimen of the perfection to which the art of engine-building has arrived.
The above should have appeared last week but was unavoidably crowded out.
Boonville Herald, August 18, 1892
Reminiscent.
G.LM.
Omaha, Neb., Aug. 15, 1892.
Route of Canal to Port Leyden
MOTOR TRUCKS AND AUTOS REPLACE BOATS ALONG ROUTE
OF CANAL TO PORT LEYDEN
Port Leyden — If wraiths of the hard fighting, heavy drinking boatmen who plied the raging Erie when it was the last word in transportation across the state follow the old
route that led from Rome to Carthage, they must marvel at the craft that travel the canal bed.
Arrival of Dignitaries - Some sensation was excited in our midst last Saturday, by the arrival of a passenger coach upon the Railroad, that apparently run itself without engine or tender. A close inspection revealed the fact that the "Dummy: manufactured at
Philadelphia and designed to run on the Street Railroad from Utica to Clinton, had surprised us with visit.
It is a compact railway carriage, containing three compartments, an engine room, baggage room, and space to seat 40 passengers. It richly finished with oaken panels, well ventilated, and luxuriously cushioned.The steam is generated in an upright boiler, and the driving wheels sustain one end of the coach. The vertical boiler is very economical of space, not only, but enables the engine to overcome much steeper grades than the horizontal boiler. When the latter runs up or down steep grades the water flows to one
end, and thus leaves the empty tubes exposed to the fire by which they are corroded, or intensely heated, by which their strength is much impaired.
Richard Palmer's newspaper research:
Maritime Memories (50 articles)